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I am poking around at my v-drive and thought some of you might like to see the pics where I opened it up a little bit.
Input shaft http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846727
Cooling jacket http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846789/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Patrick, I found a similar mess in mine. The offset vanes I was able to snap off with my thumb and forefinger. I ended up with a new RV26. Not a drop in replacement, some minor mods to the mount and engine output shaft.
Chuck
On Wed, Nov 18, 2009 at 9:53 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am poking around at my v-drive and thought some of you might like to see the pics where I opened it up a little bit.
Input shaft http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846727
Cooling jacket http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846789/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Pat-
The problem with cleaning out the cooling passage is that if you are too agressive,you will cause leaks between the cooling passage and the gear case. Water in there means the v-drive is toast. Walter suggets a thin layer of Marine-tex to seal the cooling passage after cleaning. There are several long discussions about alternative cooling schemes but the best solution is either a new v-drive, or a new gercase. RV-20 gear cases are out of production, and hard to find.
Quent -
I was thinking an epoxy coating. That might work for a while…
On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 9:15 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Pat-
The problem with cleaning out the cooling passage is that if you are too agressive,you will cause leaks between the cooling passage and the gear case. Water in there means the v-drive is toast. Walter suggets a thin layer of Marine-tex to seal the cooling passage after cleaning. There are several long discussions about alternative cooling schemes but the best solution is either a new v-drive, or a new gercase. RV-20 gear cases are out of production, and hard to find.
Quent—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFinePost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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The casing on our v-drive was almost completely blocked with corrosion/deposits with only a pencil thin passageway open. No wonder she ran very warm. Had it pulled and rebuilt for $450 (some new parts). She runs cool now with good flow through the exhaust.
The mechanic baked the casing to remove all moisture before sealing the interior. He said this was the way to go as cast iron absorbs moisture because of faults in the casting process. Heating also supposedly reduces the brittle nature of the old casting. If you pull it out for rebuild, scratch mount positions so you don’t have to realign (assuming it is straight now)
Hopefully we’ll get a few more years out of her. But I’m still chasing down the rumor of a new unit still in the box on Molokai’i.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu -
I’m going to drain the water, pull the hoses, plug the dip stick hole and carefully (with light force) grind out that corrosion using a stainless steel brush. Then I can see what I have left. I think its not as bad as it looks, the pic I sent still had some of the paper gasket in the way and confusing what you were seeing, but we’ll see.
Thanks!
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “Chuck Ruble” <>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 3:48 AM
To:
Subject: Re: V-DrivePatrick, I found a similar mess in mine. The offset vanes I was able to snap off with my thumb and forefinger. I ended up with a new RV26. Not a drop in replacement, some minor mods to the mount and engine output shaft.
Chuck
On Wed, Nov 18, 2009 at 9:53 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am poking around at my v-drive and thought some of you might like to see the pics where I opened it up a little bit.
Input shaft http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846727
Cooling jacket http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846789/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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Pat
I tried everything, various cleaners, sandblast, wire-brush, dremmel tool, die-grinder and wheels. I finally used an old chissel and hammer. I carefully chipped away anything that could be removed. Then I went over it again with the die-grinder and various bits.I eventually replaced the damn thing. I think if you keep up with it every couple of years its not a bad job. Let it go and expect to have a mess.
Good luck.
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Rich: Our marina (Ke’ehi Marine Center) has a great machine shop,so I just had one made. It was a simple job and I thought it easier to make one. I never considered contacting Walter. However, I feel as though I’m living on borrowed time as the casing top broke so easily. When it broke, the metal flaked along the separation and I wonder how strong the rest of the casting is.
Hopefully my repair will last for a few years and then (technology permitting) I can go electric.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135) -
Dan
You are correct. The case top corrodes just as the interior. When it gets thin it can break.My marine-tex repair held up quite well for several years. It still wasn’t leaking when I repowered and replaced the V-drive. I think these things could outlive us if we could just keep the water out of the cases.
Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I was told they used steel plate stock and cut it with a “chopper”. I have to admit I know next to nothing about metal fabrication. But they drilled the holes out and the cover fits fine. There was a small weep from one of the bolt holes in the casting. I was told that water fissures may permeate the casting and cause this. We dealt with this by putting permatex in the hole and installing a threaded stud. Sometimes I felt like the little Dutch boy trying to stop the leak.
It all works fine now, but who knows for how long. I’m going to try to get in touch with the owner of “Mischief Maker”, the 424 that piled up on the beach in Lahaina (Oahu) to see if he wants to part with his v-drive if it’s the same unit.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
HOnolulu -
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I did the same job two years ago. Most of the build-up came out without much effort. Cleaned inside, drain all the oil and flushed. We found very little wear after 3300 hours on the engine. After we put it all back together, I had the unit sand blasded (using baking soda), the yard then painted it with two part paint (end of a major spray job) – it looks and acts like new.
Cada Grove
Jubilee No. 100Nov 20, 2009 09:02:04 PM, () wrote:
I’m going to drain the water, pull the hoses, plug the dip stick hole and carefully (with light force) grind out that corrosion using a stainless steel brush. Then I can see what I have left. I think its not as bad as it looks, the pic I sent still had some of the paper gasket in the way and confusing what you were seeing, but we’ll see.
Thanks!
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “Chuck Ruble” < ([email][/email])>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 3:48 AM
To: ()
Subject: Re: V-DrivePatrick, I found a similar mess in mine. The offset vanes I was able to snap off with my thumb and forefinger. I ended up with a new RV26. Not a drop in replacement, some minor mods to the mount and engine output shaft.
Chuck
On Wed, Nov 18, 2009 at 9:53 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am poking around at my v-drive and thought some of you might like to see the pics where I opened it up a little bit.
Input shaft http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846727
Cooling jacket http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4115846789/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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