- This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 3 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
-
Hi Dan,
If it's making noise or vibrating, if there's water in the oil or no oil at all, or if the engine turns but the propeller doesn't…
All kidding aside, those drives should last the same time as the engine – they're industrial v-drives that are designed to give long service life with minimal maintenance. Look for hot running (over 130 or 140 degrees F) or unusual noises.
Bob
On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 5:03 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
How do you know when the V-drive is getting long in the tooth and needs some TLC?
Dan Kalinowski
(New to Pearson 424 Ketch and v-drive contraption)
S/V Swift—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Dan, I was inspecting my V-Drive a few weeks ago. I found a chunk of metal in the water jacket. It was part of one of the fins in the jacket that create turbulence in the raw water chamber. I grasped the remainder of the fin with a thumb and forefinger and it broke off. I tested another and it did the same. This leads me to think the upper portion of the drive housing is now suspect.
It does weep some oil, very little and is noisy. I just finished a rebuild and am replacing the V-Drive with the newer RV20 unit that no longer uses raw water to cool it. Cast iron exposed to salt water for 30 years…. go figure.As for the W58, if its running well. Don't mess with it. 2500 hours is few on a slow turning overbuilt industrial engine. You might consider having the injectors serviced, but I wouldn't bother if its running clean (no soot on the stern) and smooth.
Chuck
On 8/10/08, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
How do you know when the V-drive is getting long in the tooth and needs some TLC?
Dan Kalinowski
(New to Pearson 424 Ketch and v-drive contraption)
S/V SwiftPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Hi Chuck,
How expensive and hard was it to install the RV20? Is it a direct replacement?
Bob
On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 6:57 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Dan, I was inspecting my V-Drive a few weeks ago. I found a chunk of metal in the water jacket. It was part of one of the fins in the jacket that create turbulence in the raw water chamber. I grasped the remainder of the fin with a thumb and forefinger and it broke off. I tested another and it did the same. This leads me to think the upper portion of the drive housing is now suspect.
It does weep some oil, very little and is noisy. I just finished a rebuild and am replacing the V-Drive with the newer RV20 unit that no longer uses raw water to cool it. Cast iron exposed to salt water for 30 years…. go figure.As for the W58, if its running well. Don't mess with it. 2500 hours is few on a slow turning overbuilt industrial engine. You might consider having the injectors serviced, but I wouldn't bother if its running clean (no soot on the stern) and smooth.
Chuck
On 8/10/08, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
How do you know when the V-drive is getting long in the tooth and needs some TLC?
Dan Kalinowski
(New to Pearson 424 Ketch and v-drive contraption)
S/V Swift—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Bob, I've not received the new unit yet. Hoping it arrives this week. It is a direct replacement other than it has a oil pump on it. This changes the dimensions, if you have a bulkhead directly forward of the unit you may need to modify the bulkhead. On our boats I don't think this is an issue.
I had the old one out over the winter. Not terribly difficult to get out, just time consuming, nearly 6 hours (nearly every bolt was rusted in place). Mark all the brackets so they end up back in the same spot, with the same orientation. The upper shaft has to be removed, the lower backed out about 6″.
I'm hauling out to do the work as I have another hull item to look into. When it goes back in alignment is critical.
$2500 for the replacement, I'll be doing the install and let the yard align the V-Drive and the engine when in.Hope this answers your questions.
Chuck
On 8/11/08, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Chuck,
How expensive and hard was it to install the RV20? Is it a direct replacement?
Bob
On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 6:57 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Dan, I was inspecting my V-Drive a few weeks ago. I found a chunk of metal in the water jacket. It was part of one of the fins in the jacket that create turbulence in the raw water chamber. I grasped the remainder of the fin with a thumb and forefinger and it broke off. I tested another and it did the same. This leads me to think the upper portion of the drive housing is now suspect.
It does weep some oil, very little and is noisy. I just finished a rebuild and am replacing the V-Drive with the newer RV20 unit that no longer uses raw water to cool it. Cast iron exposed to salt water for 30 years…. go figure.As for the W58, if its running well. Don't mess with it. 2500 hours is few on a slow turning overbuilt industrial engine. You might consider having the injectors serviced, but I wouldn't bother if its running clean (no soot on the stern) and smooth.
Chuck
On 8/10/08, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
How do you know when the V-drive is getting long in the tooth and needs some TLC?
Dan Kalinowski
(New to Pearson 424 Ketch and v-drive contraption)
S/V Swift—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Dan
As you know, the Walter V-drive is seawater cooled. They typically last about 25 years or so before they rust out. There are other failure modes, but corrosion is the most common. The cooling jacket will rust with age, restricting water flow through the cooling jacket. Every two or three years, it is suggested that you open the cooling jacket and scrape the rust out. Eventually, the jacket will weep seawater into the case. You can see this happen by examining the color of the case oil. It should be clear or gray. If it turns milky brown in color, you have water intrusion. Sadly, Walter no longer stocks replacement cases. When yours fails, you have three choices.
1 – replace it with an RV-26 (expensive)
2 – patch it with marine-tex (tedious)
3 – run it without cooling water (risky)If you chose the third option, ask the group about their experiences with no cooling water. Walter flatly rejects the idea, but some owners have had success.
Something to consider when the time comes. For a variety of reasons, most new engines run faster than the old W60 (approx 2200 RPM). A 2:1 gear reduction is not optimal for the 424 and most modern diesel engines. If you swap out the old V-drive, consider changing the gear reduction.
Regards
Rich – BlackSheep #47Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Chuck
You’ve almost certainly ordered an RV-26. The RV-20 is out of production. It is almost a drop-in replacement, but not quite.Here’s a link to my notes
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/My_Homepage_Files/Page26.htmlRich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.