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Hello all,
I completed my engine mount (isolator) replacement and thought I’d provide a recap. I installed Bushings Inc DF2207-2’s, available from go2marine. They cost about $50 each, and required no mod to the engine mounts. A word on nomenclature: what I thought of as engine mounts are called ‘isolators’ by Westerbeke. The ‘engine mounts’ are the pieces on the engine to which the isolators mate.
The job went well, but not without trials. The front isolators were replaced easily, largely because the ‘mount/isolator assy’ is removable from the engine block (three nuts/studs). They can be replaced individually (one at a time) without providing support to the engine. I did use a sawz-all to cut the main mounting stud of the old isolators.
The aft mounts were a problem. The ‘mounts’ aren’t removable, but are cast in to the bell housing. I used a sawz-all to cut the main vertical studs of the isolators, and an impact hammer to remove the main nut. But sadly, the engine heat exchanger had been dripping small amounts of saltwater from the end caps over the years, directly on top of the main mounting nuts, and had pretty well seized the main studs of the isolators to the mount castings. No amount of penetrant or careful effort would remove the studs. Consequently, I had to drill out the studs with Cobalt drill bits and a slow speed/high torque drill driver. Care was taken to prevent elongation of the holes in the mount castings. The engine had to be supported and raised to get the old isolators out and the new isolators in. The drive shaft had to be disconnected of course. I used a 4X4 atop the companionway, and a come-along to raise the aft end of the engine.
When the job was completed, I started the engine, hoping that the vibrations previously experienced were reduced. Thankfully they are. If you undertake this job, I recommend you have on hand an impact hammer and a sawz-all. If your aft engine isolator studs are frozen to the mounts, as mine were, you’ll need at least one Cobalt 5/8″ drill bit to drill them out.
David
Blue Moon, #189 -
After all that work, consider spraying Fluid Film on the metal parts of
the new mounts periodically. To my experience this is the best rust
preventer you will find. (Also, I don’t think there is anything in it
that would hurt the rubber, but check for yourself on that).Pete
On 3/9/2015 9:39 PM, typhoontye via maillist wrote:
Hello all,
I completed my engine mount (isolator) replacement and thought I’d provide a recap. I installed Bushings Inc DF2207-2’s, available from go2marine. They cost about $50 each, and required no mod to the engine mounts. A word on nomenclature: what I thought of as engine mounts are called ‘isolators’ by Westerbeke. The ‘engine mounts’ are the pieces on the engine to which the isolators mate.
The job went well, but not without trials. The front isolators were replaced easily, largely because the ‘mount/isolator assy’ is removable from the engine block (three nuts/studs). They can be replaced individually (one at a time) without providing support to the engine. I did use a sawz-all to cut the main mounting stud of the old isolators.
The aft mounts were a problem. The ‘mounts’ aren’t removable, but are cast in to the bell housing. I used a sawz-all to cut the main vertical studs of the isolators, and an impact hammer to remove the main nut. But sadly, the engine heat exchanger had been dripping small amounts of saltwater from the end caps over the years, directly on top of the main mounting nuts, and had pretty well seized the main studs of the isolators to the mount castings. No amount of penetrant or careful effort would remove the studs. Consequently, I had to drill out the studs with Cobalt drill bits and a slow speed/high torque drill driver. Care was taken to prevent elongation of the holes in the mount castings. The engine had to be supported and raised to get the old isolators out and the new isolators in. The drive shaft had to be disconnected of course. I used a 4X4 atop the companionway, and a come-along to raise the aft end of the engine.
When the job was completed, I started the engine, hoping that the vibrations previously experienced were reduced. Thankfully they are. If you undertake this job, I recommend you have on hand an impact hammer and a sawz-all. If your aft engine isolator studs are frozen to the mounts, as mine were, you’ll need at least one Cobalt 5/8″ drill bit to drill them out.
David
Blue Moon, #189_______________________________________________
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