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Just got finished replacing cylinder head on a W63C and the first time trough the torque wrench was not calibrated and the head gasket leaked coolant into oil. Finally! Got it fixed, as indicated by no loss of coolant pressure over time). and now I have a lot of water in oil. Because of the reversed mount of the engine, getting the water out has been a bitch. I researched the topic and two solutions we suggested. First with Mystery Oil. 3/4 qt / 2 qt oil. The second solution was use of kerosene mixed with oil. Run engine to temp for 15 to 20 min and drain and repeat. I have tried just replacing oil. Much $$$ (18/ gal) and still milky color. Any comments or other ideas with out pulling and disassembling engine. Anyone with a solution to the problem.
Steve
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Whatever you do, DO NOT USE THE KEROSENE TRICK. Unless, of course you want
a total rebuild. Or a new engine. Kerosene will wipe the main bearings
faster than you can say, “Holy crap!”The best way is to drop the oil pan and clean it out. You can try heating
the engine compartment without running the engine to drive the water out
and then change the oil – drain oil first, put a wet vac on the oil intake
and leave the dip stick out and the drain tube uncapped. Put a 100 watt
light under the engine.The real problem is that that grey gunk is all over the engine. The oil’s
function in life is to collect it. But you don’t want to run the engine
with it in there so heat and ventilation is the only way to drive it out
short of disassembly.Bob
On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. wrote:
Just got finished replacing cylinder head on a W63C and the first time
trough the torque wrench was not calibrated and the head gasket leaked
coolant into oil. Finally! Got it fixed, as indicated by no loss of coolant
pressure over time). and now I have a lot of water in oil. Because of the
reversed mount of the engine, getting the water out has been a bitch. I
researched the topic and two solutions we suggested. First with Mystery
Oil. 3/4 qt / 2 qt oil. The second solution was use of kerosene mixed with
oil. Run engine to temp for 15 to 20 min and drain and repeat. I have
tried just replacing oil. Much $$$ (18/ gal) and still milky color. Any
comments or other ideas with out pulling and disassembling engine. Anyone
with a solution to the problem.Steve
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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It is antifreeze. I know the problem, but I can not pull engine so I need to get the oil back to full oil. Exchanging the oil and filter multiple times has not been successfully so an alternate method must be utilized and the orientation of the engine and pan sump does not help. I plan on trying the mystery oil and the method recommended by Bob. Apparently many folks have used the mystery oil successfully. I have not run the engine more then 30 min under no load since the problem developed.
Thanks for your input
Steve
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30 seconds with poor lubrication will wipe the main bearings. I hope that
hasn’t happened. Or you will be pulling the engine.Bob
On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 7:45 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. wrote:
Quote:It is antifreeze. I know the problem, but I can not pull engine so I need
to get the oil back to full oil. Exchanging the oil and filter multiple
times has not been successfully so an alternate method must be utilized and
the orientation of the engine and pan sump does not help. I plan on trying
the mystery oil and the method recommended by Bob. Apparently many folks
have used the mystery oil successfully. I have not run the engine more then
30 min under no load since the problem developed.Thanks for your input
Steve
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Bob,
I also hope no previous damage occurred. What has occurred in the past before I realized there was an issue is not within my control. I can only deal with the future and try to avoid any further potential damage. I appreciate your input.
S
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Steven, I hope none has occurred as well. Oddly, the water/oil mix will
continue to lubricate for a bit whereas kerosene and oil won’t. When the
engine gets running again, you’ll know right away – there will be a heavy,
RPM related knocking sounding like someone hitting the engine with a big
hammer. If that happens, you have a choice. Run the engine until it fails
or rebuild. If not, you dodged a bullet, my friend.I’ve been thinking about this some. I wonder if there’s a way to rotate
the engine without starting it – you’d want it to rotate freely and for
longer than the starter is good for. You’d have to take out the injectors
(and you’d need new copper gaskets for them). Then, perhaps, you could
arrange an electric motor to turn it with the crankshaft pulleys and a
belt. The purpose for this would be to put new oil in, rotate the engine
for 15 minutes or so, or even longer, then drain and change the oil again.
Because there’s no combustion, there’s no wear on the bearings because
they’re not loaded. It seems complicated but it would work I think,
because the issue is getting oil to circulate and remove the grey gunk.That and mystery oil?
Bob
On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 12:05 AM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Bob,I also hope no previous damage occurred. What has occurred in the past
before I realized there was an issue is not within my control. I can only
deal with the future and try to avoid any further potential damage. I
appreciate your input.S
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I can attest that it is possible to dodge the bullet in this situation.
This happened to me with a different boat and engine (Volvo MD6). The
engine was started and run by the yard (I was out of town) without checking
the oil. I came to the boat a few days later and discovered the milky
oil. I removed that oil and filter and replaced them. Ran the engine for
a few minutes, then repeated the oil and filter change. I did this about 4
or 5 times until there was only clean looking oil, then did it once more.
A few weeks later I moved the boat from the Chesapeake to Newport, RI, 75%
of the distance under power. I did have to do a major rebuild (re-bored
cylinders, new pistons) about 7 years later, which was attributed to a
faulty and poorly located anti-syphon valve.
So there is hope.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 7:49 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:Steven, I hope none has occurred as well. Oddly, the water/oil mix will
continue to lubricate for a bit whereas kerosene and oil won’t. When the
engine gets running again, you’ll know right away – there will be a heavy,
RPM related knocking sounding like someone hitting the engine with a big
hammer. If that happens, you have a choice. Run the engine until it fails
or rebuild. If not, you dodged a bullet, my friend.I’ve been thinking about this some. I wonder if there’s a way to rotate
the engine without starting it – you’d want it to rotate freely and for
longer than the starter is good for. You’d have to take out the injectors
(and you’d need new copper gaskets for them). Then, perhaps, you could
arrange an electric motor to turn it with the crankshaft pulleys and a
belt. The purpose for this would be to put new oil in, rotate the engine
for 15 minutes or so, or even longer, then drain and change the oil again.
Because there’s no combustion, there’s no wear on the bearings because
they’re not loaded. It seems complicated but it would work I think,
because the issue is getting oil to circulate and remove the grey gunk.That and mystery oil?
Bob
On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 12:05 AM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Bob,I also hope no previous damage occurred. What has occurred in the past
before I realized there was an issue is not within my control. I can only
deal with the future and try to avoid any further potential damage. I
appreciate your input.S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
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I’d have to look at how the system is set up – you want pressure to be
coming from the oil pump discharge. The system isn’t designed for
backwards flow so I don’t know what would happen. Rotating the engine with
the starter won’t give enough circulation, I think. Maybe. The key is to
get a good flow of oil through all the galleries and passageways. Maybe it
would work. Easier than using a motor and belt.I’d be interested to know how it all works out.
Bob
On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 3:24 PM, quent wrote:
The starter would probably push a decompressed engine for a while before
getting too hot. Alternatively, how about removing the oil pressure
sender and pumping oil under pressure in there?
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thank you both for your input. I will keep you informed as the process proceeds.
Steve
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