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I recommend preemptive maintenance for the exhaust injection elbow.
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Three seasons ago our water injection exhaust elbow sprang a pinhole leak and sprayed hot salt water all over the (stern facing) front end of the engine. This caused extensive corrosion of all cast iron and ordinary steel parts and left salt residue all over the stern end of the engine compartment. “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it†-
Norris
As you’ve learned, the injection elbow is a maintenance item as can be the
connecting black-pipe. When I bought my new Yanmar, I opted for the very
expensive bronze high-riser injection elbow. I think it was almost $800.
In theory, it will outlive me but we’ll see. As I recall, I replaced the
injectionm elbow in my old engine every 3..5 years or so. They are cheap,
but you get what you pay for. Just plan on doing it when it looks
suspicious. Another failure is restriction of water flow through the
injection elbow. Corrosion can form on the inside too, reducing the amount
of water that flows through your exhaust.When I bought my boat many years ago, I enrolled in a diesel maintenance
course. The first thing they taught us is to check the engine, oil etc,
each day before starting the engine. The 424 engine isn’t all that easy to
get at so we probably get complacent about doing this. A quick visual check
will reveal problems like this before they ruin your cruise. How many of us
even check the engine oil in our cars anymore?There is absolutely no reason to have any exterior corrosion on a well built
and well maintained engine. That’s one reason I’ve been so critical of the
V-drive. The paint applied by Walter isn’t robust enough to keep rust at
bay. My Yanmar that was replaced the same year looks just as it did the day
she was installed. You can eat off the engine, well almost.WD-40 has few uses in marine or any application. It makes a great coating
for machine parts that get exposed to seawater however. Its not much of a
lubricant but will displace water. Its also pretty good for removing blue
tape. I spray down my outboard engine frequently. The Yanmar needs no such
treatment, but the older westerbeke engines may. Be cautious of overdoing
it however because the main ingredient is diesel fuel. I pulled my old W-60
years ago and had her rebuilt and repainted. I renewed the paint each
season as I do with the V-drive. If your engine looks like a pile of rust
on dirt, you may consider the same treatment.Regards
Rich – BlackSheepQuote:
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Norris
Know that you have company. That was probably the one of the main reasons
for my repower. After being able to look inside of the fresh water pump
through the hole rusted away from salt spray, and then looking at the cost
of parts a new engine just made sense. I think my spray was from the raw
water pump but I did have to replace all of the exhaust a few years before
the repower. That was actually very easy and cheap, being that it was made
of black pipe parts.Linus
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I replaced this cast iron elbow with an aluminum one made by a local fabricating shop 8 years ago and had them make a spare at the same time. The price was reasonable, but I can’t remember what it cost. Jim Roberts-#219 cutter
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The new engine installation was about the only thing I didn’t do myself in the course of refitting Silver Heels. I let the local Yanmar dealer to that for me. In the course of things, had to accomplish a very tight exhaust hose U-turn on the forward-facing (transmission) side of the engine so that the exhaust could then run aft towards the transom. For that he fabricated a tricky 2-turn, 3-dimensional elbow out of fiberglass. If you’ve worked with ‘glass at all, it would be a relatively easy thing to make yourself.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor
Why didn’t he just bend the hose?
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Exhaust.htmlRich
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Rich,
That would be an impossible bend on my Yanmar 4JH4E, especially with the
very heavy-duty hose the mechanic used. There simply isn’t enough room
beneath the manifold. Check out what he did instead (attached photos).
Pretty clever and nicely executed.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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nice! I also have to fashion a round about turn for the beta engine.
Thanks for the pictures.On 5/24/2010 6:51 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Rich,That would be an impossible bend on my Yanmar 4JH4E, especially with the
very heavy-duty hose the mechanic used. There simply isn’t enough room
beneath the manifold. Check out what he did instead (attached photos).
Pretty clever and nicely executed.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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My installer also doubted whether the exhaust hose could be bent to the
extent needed. Fortunately Rich had done his re-power a year or so earlier
and published pictures. Once my installer saw that it could be done with
heavy duty hose he went that way. Turned out it was not difficult at all.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/20080207%20Engine%20Install%205.JPGOn Mon, May 24, 2010 at 8:51 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Rich.That would be an impossible bend on my Yanmar 4JH4E, especially with the
very heavy-duty hose the mechanic used. There simply isn’t enough room
beneath the manifold. Check out what he did instead (attached photos).
Pretty clever and nicely executed.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Yep, yours made the bend, all right. As you may be able to see in my photos,
my installation has an oil cooler (for the Paragon transmission) beneath the
manifold. The exhaust hose would never have fit past it. I suppose the
cooler could’ve been relocated to make room for the hose, but the mechanic
opted to do what he did. Hey, as long as it works…Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Pete,
Kind of hard to see it in my photos, but the bend next to the manifold not
only continues the “elbow” turn, but also angles up making the turn
3-dimensional.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Abaft the engine.
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
It was tight in my installation too. I was able to shoe-horn everything in there, but since I had a clean slate I could move things wherever they fit. I did a lot of head-scratching over the installation.http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/leftExhaust.JPG
Rich
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Understood. I’ve been head-scratching ever since I bought this boat. It has been a challenging and educational experience.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Rich,
On your system do you have a constant downhill slope to the lift
muffler? From the pictures I have seen, it looks like the hose runs too
low to enter a lift muffler.Pete
On 5/24/2010 8:44 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Abaft the engine.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Pete
The photo is somewhat deceiving. Its downhill to the side of the engine bed and pretty much a straight-shot from there to the water lift. The hose was special “flexible” hose designed for bending in installations such as this. It was expensive, but I needed only a short piece to get to to the muffler, maybe 5 feet long. Even at that, it was pretty stiff to bend in place. I did quite a lot of headscratching to figure out how I might bend it in place. I came up with the idea of cutting a piece of wood with a hole in it to bend the pipe, then once it was all installed I could cut the wood piece out; worked like a charm. I had to lift the engine up a few inches to slide the pipe under the injection elbow. Then lower the engine to slip the nipple into the hose. It was probably 4 hours of bruised knuckles and swearing before I came up with a workable solution and an hour to actually get the hose cut and connected.The photos show the wrong hose clamps in place. I later learned that you must use special ($$) hose clamps for exhaust hose. The regular clamps aren’t strong enough to clamp down on the hose and make a good seal.
Rich
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Great technique. Thanks for sharing Rich.
So what are these clamps your refer to?
Pete
On 5/24/2010 1:51 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
The photo is somewhat deceiving. Its downhill to the side of the engine bed and pretty much a straight-shot from there to the water lift. The hose was special “flexible” hose designed for bending in installations such as this. It was expensive, but I needed only a short piece to get to to the muffler, maybe 5 feet long. Even at that, it was pretty stiff to bend in place. I did quite a lot of headscratching to figure out how I might bend it in place. I came up with the idea of cutting a piece of wood with a hole in it to bend the pipe, then once it was all installed I could cut the wood piece out; worked like a charm. I had to lift the engine up a few inches to slide the pipe under the injection elbow. Then lower the engine to slip the nipple into the hose. It was probably 4 hours of bruised knuckles and swearing before I came up with a workable solution and an hour to actually get the hose cut and connected.The photos show the wrong hose clamps in place. I later learned that you must use special ($$) hose clamps for exhaust hose. The regular clamps aren’t strong enough to clamp down on the hose and make a good seal.
Rich
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