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If the cockpit lockers were pooped, an enormous quantity of water would make its way into the hull through the air gaps in the locker lids.
I am thinking that it may make sense to latch the lockers shut and tape the seams before the going gets really rough.
The latches would prevent the bouyancy of the air in lockers from pulling the tape, and the tape would only have to bridge a 1/2 inch gap.
It might not be a bad idea to tape the anchor locker when you are heading for foul weather.
Is there tape designed to stick to GRP even when wet? I heard rumor of such a thing
Any thoughts?
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Walter
Were you planning on adding a larger 3-4″ drain in the cockpit like Richard
and others have done. That should keep water levels down in most situations.I think you would find adding tape a hassle in pretty short order,
especially when you want to access the locker after you have just put it on.
If you are really concerned about getting pooped, you could make up
waterproof covers that velcro to the lip around the opening to the locker.
They would be easy to remove and out of site with the lid closed.Paul
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Walter
Were you planning on adding a larger 3-4″ drain in the cockpit like Richard
and others have done. That should keep water levels down in most situations.I think you would find adding tape a hassle in pretty short order,
especially when you want to access the locker after you have just put it on.
If you are really concerned about getting pooped, you could make up
waterproof covers that velcro to the lip around the opening to the locker.
They would be easy to remove and out of site with the lid closed.Paul
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I would agree with Paul, more drains is likely more effective than trying to seal the lockers. A positive latch is a very good idea. I just shoved a shackle in the lock hasp to hold the lockers closed. Fortunately I never had to test how effective that was. We took a large amount of seawater into the cockpit only once and then only a little more than half-way up to the lip of the locker hatch. We were sailing level, so it was a lot of water. I don't know how many minutes it took to drain all the water, but it felt like a lifetime. I hadn't added any drain capacity.
John
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 5:15 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Walter
Were you planning on adding a larger 3-4″ drain in the cockpit like Richard and others have done. That should keep water levels down in most situations.
I think you would find adding tape a hassle in pretty short order, especially when you want to access the locker after you have just put it on. If you are really concerned about getting pooped, you could make up waterproof covers that velcro to the lip around the opening to the locker. They would be easy to remove and out of site with the lid closed.
Paul
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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PO put two 1-1/2″ drains on aft wall of cockpit about 2″ up. Haven't tested it yet and hope to never test it.
For the lockers: To waterproof, you can get 'D' shaped weather stripping from Home Depot that's self adhesive. Two options: 1, get it big enough so you only need one on the top or 2; get two that mate, one on bottom, one on top. All lockers should have positive latches, preferably the ones that have the hinged bit with a lever as opposed to the simple lock hasp.
Make absolutely sure that you install the hasp so that it cannot lock you in the locker should the lid fall while you are in there. Really.
To mark the lid for the gasket, take a light and a magic marker in the locker and close the lid. Mark around the edge and measure the largest gap – that's the one you have to fill.
Large 'D' gasket material is available at Graingers and McMaster-Carr.
That's what I'm planning to do…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 5:27 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I would agree with Paul, more drains is likely more effective than trying to seal the lockers. A positive latch is a very good idea. I just shoved a shackle in the lock hasp to hold the lockers closed. Fortunately I never had to test how effective that was. We took a large amount of seawater into the cockpit only once and then only a little more than half-way up to the lip of the locker hatch. We were sailing level, so it was a lot of water. I don't know how many minutes it took to drain all the water, but it felt like a lifetime. I hadn't added any drain capacity.
John
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 5:15 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Walter
Were you planning on adding a larger 3-4″ drain in the cockpit like Richard and others have done. That should keep water levels down in most situations.
I think you would find adding tape a hassle in pretty short order, especially when you want to access the locker after you have just put it on. If you are really concerned about getting pooped, you could make up waterproof covers that velcro to the lip around the opening to the locker. They would be easy to remove and out of site with the lid closed.
Paul
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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“To mark the lid for the gasket, take a light and a magic marker in the
locker and close the lid. Mark around the edge and measure the largest gap
– that’s the one you have to fill.”Bob:
I thought of the same thing, so I climbed into my locker this afternoon .
Because of the way the inner lip slopes to the floor, there is way too much
gap to use a gasket. The gap at the back is a couple inches and at the front
closer to 6 inches. You could put a gasket around the outer edge, but the
water drain slot would still be open.Paul
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Last first:
Hi Walter,
The hoses from the aft wall of the cockpit go straight to the hull above the waterline but below the transom. No valves or anything. Because the cockpit would have to be below the waves for water to come in, at that point you're already in trouble.
Hi Paul,
You saved me the trouble of doing that! Thanks! Ok, new plan. How far from the lip is the side lip of the lid? In other words, the top of the lid must surround the lip of the opening into the lazarette. What if the gasket was around the side of the lid? That way the drain channels can stay open (important) and the lid would be sealed?
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 6:16 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
“To mark the lid for the gasket, take a light and a magic marker in the
locker and close the lid. Mark around the edge and measure the largest gap
– that's the one you have to fill.”Bob:
I thought of the same thing, so I climbed into my locker this afternoon . Because of the way the inner lip slopes to the floor, there is way too much gap to use a gasket. The gap at the back is a couple inches and at the front closer to 6 inches. You could put a gasket around the outer edge, but the water drain slot would still be open.
Paul
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Walter:
Here is a link to a picture of Richard’s boat, with the cockpit drain just
above the engine exhaust. As you mentioned, he has added a flap to minimize
water intrusion from a following sea.http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/davit/davitFolded.JPG
Paul
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Walter
I ran a 3″ diameter drain right out the back of the boat below the manual bilge pump. The hole as seen from the cockpit can be seen in the attached photo. I don’t have a photo of the transom to show the exit hole, but it is just above the exhaust hose. The fittings were purchased from Defender. I ordered two and cut the overhang and flap off the inside fitting with a hack-saw. This leaves a spare rubber flap. I used the same fitting for my exhaust system when I repowered, so there are two on the transom.http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|106370|292325|314570&id=57522
The normal hose clamps that you buy for water hoses won’t work with exhaust hose. They don’t have enough strength to squeeze the hose down. You need a special clamp. The clamps are precisely sized for the hose and don’t have a worm gear cut in them.
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Rich Carter
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