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Rodd
That comes out to precisely 5 gal for three coats, or 1.66 gal/coat. If I had it to do over again, I’d mix precisely that much so that I knew I had 4 mils per coat.Its difficult to mix partial batches but doable. I mixed half-gallon batches by marking a mixing stick with notches so I could measure how much I poured out. You have to mix the product parts before pouring the stuff out so its a pain. I didn’t try a paint-shaker and wonder if it would work. The part-A stuff is pretty thick. I don’t know if a shaker would mix it. One of these days I’d like to get one anyway. I brought my bottom paint to the local hardware store. They put it on their shaker but the first can leaked. They use plastic lids now and the new shakers don’t clamp the lid down tight enough.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-paint-shaker-94605.html
Rich
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For me, I used 4 gallons total which gave me 2 coats overall and a 3rd coat at
the waterline. It’s the waterline that needs that 3rd coat…and you save $250
by not having to buy a 5th gallon. ….I used Trinidad SR red, by Pettit. I read
someplace that the color red is the best for copper based antifouling paint as
it does not interfere with the copper.my 2 cents worth…
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I used the Trinidad SR also – 4 cans, 2 coats with a 3rd around the waterline. Held up well for the most part. Peeled a little in the same spots it always peels…worn on the leading edges. but not a big issue with me. I want to switch to RED from the Black.
Question – Can I paint over the black ( after roughing it up a little) with the RED. The boat is and will be out of the water for a few months….. Or do I have to start from scratch…..?
Alan— On Tue, 9/7/10, Joseph Steiner wrote:
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Alan,
I can not speak from experience because I never painted over black, but as a
chemist I believe you should not have any problems since the polymers are the
same and black pigment should not affect adhesion. You do need to sand before
applying fresh paint. Also, in case you did not know this, since you are on the
hard, paint within 48 hours of splashing the boat because sunlight and air will
oxidise the surface and reduce the effectiveness of the paint.Joe
Half Moon
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ALAN: You can paint hard epoxy over hard epoxy following a light sanding,
regardless of the pigment.
FYI,Ablative bottom paint can be applied over epoxy as well after sanding
and cleaning, but NEVER epoxy over ablative.
Have fun!
BILL, WEST MARINE, str#187, Deltaville.~~(__~~ (_~~~fair winds~~ (_~~
Capt. William Tice, USCG Master, 100 TonIn a message dated 9/8/2010 9:21:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:Alan,
I can not speak from experience because I never painted over black, but as
a
chemist I believe you should not have any problems since the polymers are
the
same and black pigment should not affect adhesion. You do need to sand
before
applying fresh paint. Also, in case you did not know this, since you are
on the
hard, paint within 48 hours of splashing the boat because sunlight and air
will
oxidise the surface and reduce the effectiveness of the paint.Joe
Half Moon
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Here’s another, more integrated paint shaker I’ve used aboard Silver Heels.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Last time I checked, the red Petit Trinidad antifouling paint contained 75%
cuprous oxide, a higher amount than the other colors of the same brand, and
higher than any other commercial bottom paint I’ve found. But you pay for
all that copper.My last haul-out I scored a 5-gallon can of red International brand
antifouling paint made for commercial vessels, with something like 47%
cuprous oxide content. A used boat gear place in St. Augustine was buying
and re-selling the stuff cheap. The catch was the paint was about a year
beyond its expiration date. I contacted the manufacturer about the possible
problems of using their bottom paint so outdated and decided it was worth
taking a shot since I was only paying $200 for the 5 gallons. I think I got
about 3-1/2 heavy coats out of it – or was it 4-1/2? – and it turned out to
be a good gamble. A year and a half later it’s still holding up well.Moral of the story: check your local used boat gear stores for deals on
bottom paint. That’s doubly applicable to you guys who dry-dock your boats
every winter. Your antifouling only has to last 6 or 7 months so you don’t
need the best of the best.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor
One would think that we owners in norther waters would have an advantage when it comes to bottom paint. It doesn’t seem to work that way though. We get a lot more daylight during the summer months than those in lower latitudes and the cold water carries more dissolved gasses for bottom-growth to feed on. We can get quite rapid bottom growth in spite of our short season. I suppose that most of us have the advantage of having the boat out of the water each year for service.I’ve been using Petit ablative paint for many years now. I prefer the ablative paints because they don’t build-up and can last a few seasons. I usually touch-up the bottom paint where it needs it and add a coat each season up near the waterline. If the bottom paint looks think, I add a new coat. I have a diver clean the bottom a couple of times each season to keep up with the slime.
Regards
Rich
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Rich,
Interesting. I always assumed bottoms sprouted growth faster in the tropics (though I used to earn extra money when I was a kid scrubbing boat bottoms in the LI Sound in Larchmont). Live & learn.
Silver Heels recently got a free bottom cleaning when I sailed her up the Rio Chagres, a jungle river near the Panama Canal. Actually, there wasn’t much growth on the bottom just then – I had dived and cleaned it a few weeks before – but there were lots of barnacle bases left from my stay in Cartagena harbor, where boat bottoms foul with extraordinary speed in the polluted harbor water. While we were up the freshwater river, not only did the bit of sea growth die and fall away in a day, but most of the remnant barnacle bases dropped off, too! A little green slime quickly started growing near the waterline in the river water, but that disappeared when we re-entered the salty sea.
Are there any navigable rivers you can visit in the NE for a free, mid-summer bottom cleaning? I don’t suppose anybody careens their boat anymore, although I believe you’ve got enough tidal range up there to do it.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Most rivers in the NE wouldn’t qualify as fresh because of large tidal ranges. The Hudson is tidal all the way to Albany and the St. Lawrence all the way to Quebec City, where the tidal range is 9 feet. One would need to go up the Penobscot, 9 foo range again, beyond the limits of navigability to get to realy fresh water. And speaking of pollution, one year a paper mill above Bangor had an uncorntrolled release of crap and boaters below Bangor complained of high barnacle counts. In the Caribbean there is little tidal range, a foot or so so river currents will keep salt out of areas above estuaries.
Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #216— On Fri, 9/10/10, Silver Heels wrote:
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Both the Hudson and Connecticut Rivers as well as the Thames in New London
will clean your boat bottom if you go far enough up. For the Connecticut
River, it’s only about an hour up it. For the Hudson, it’s about 40 miles
(Bear Mountain, West Point – that area) before you’re in essentially fresh
water. The salt water being denser tends to stay deep. The Thames in New
London needs about 10 miles before you’re mostly in fresh water.Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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