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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 31 total)
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  • in reply to: Standing rigging replacement #223692
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    I just finished a rig refit, and since I struggled to get an idea of costs I figured I’d share. This is for a cutter, not ketch. I had to replace my mast step and cut about 2 inches off the bottom of the mast because the steel and aluminum interact poorly – this is probably necessary on most if not all 424s. My mast wasn’t scary at the bottom yet but there were a few holes getting there.

    Mast (54 feet overall) in and out – $700

    Wire (uppers, fore and backstay @ 3/8, lowers 5/16), turnbuckles, pins, toggles, all swages (hayn for everything)- $3,300

    Mast step including an extra 2 1/4″ height, anodized aluminum – $690

    SS Chainplates (port and starboard, not fore and aft) – $830

    These prices are for fabrication only, rigging particularly would go up if you aren’t removing and reinstalling.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    in reply to: Lost a Chainplate during Irma #223683
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    I just replaced all my chainplates and the old ones aren’t that bad. If you want to kick the can down the road until you replace them all at once one you can have one – I will actually thinking about repurposing two myself for aft chainplates for the Jordan series drogue I plan on getting.

    They look bad in the photo but I didn’t actually find any pitting or cracks.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: Hot water heating w/battery #223674
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    This is something I’ve wanted to do.

    What hot water heater are you using?

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: Mast Pulpits – contact for fabricator? #223067
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    I’m interested to know if the previous plan for mast pulpits is open source? The price is a bit prohibitive for me, but I have local relationships with fabricators.

    If it’s not stepping on anyone’s toes, where can I access the design for P424 pulpits?

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: Dinghy Davits #222655
    robshookphoto
    Participant
    I have forespar nova davits. Expensive but very easy to set up. 

    However, in a year or a few I will be looking into having an arch fabricated. I have heard of people having aluminum ones done for 2k. That would provide the height needed to make exiting off the stern easy. 

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    robshookphoto
    Participant

    I have 630ah (6 105s). If you’re looking for the best deal, I don’t know that you can do better than West Marine’s store batteries (DEKA rebranded) on a port supply (West marine pro) discount.

    I seem to have more than enough power with a stand alone fridge (power hungry at 6amps), these batteries, and 400w of solar. Not terribly expensive either – I think 840 for the batteries total.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: New P424 Owners – hull #206 #222263
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    Awesome! I’ll be returning to Port Washington from Florida/Islands in the spring. There’s another 424 out of Port Washington I’ve seen occasionally as well. That makes a number of us in the NYC area.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: Port replacement #221246
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    ’81 laid, ’86 commissioned Cutter here with 12 ports – 4 metal ones in the aft have no leaks. 8 forward Beckson plastic ports leak like mad – I’ve got tarp over them for now until I reseal them.

    I’m guessing your powder coated ports (Kalinowski) are aluminum?

    If anyone has successfully removed and re-bedded the plastic ports I’d love to hear about it. I imagine I at minimum need new trim rings.

    Wish I could do SS ports but with a refit looking at me it’s not happening this year.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: Replacing through-hulls #221239
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    I’m very happy that it’s not bolted through the hull. More metal through the hull seems unsafe to me. The flange bolts seem to do their job (anhoring the seacock to keep stress off the through-hull) just fine through a backing plate. That Alberg design sounds scary.

    I’m all for the dremel method, but nobody has actually shared which attachment they used. I did look at Lowe’s and Home Depot and saw nothing to fit the bill. Sizing also seems like it wouldn’t be easy.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: Cutter Backstay Rigging #221212
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    Looks like all the images didn’t upload from my phone. Here we go –

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    Attachments:
    1. Starboard running backstay

    in reply to: Replacing through-hulls #221205
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    FYI for the forum – Perko 3/4″ seacocks that appear to be identical to what I removed are $99 for Port Supply members… or $250 on West Marine. Find a Port Supply member to buddy up to if you need to do this job.

    ————————————

    So once I finally decided to cut (“pizza slice” method with the grinder) this was actually SUPER easy. Maybe an hour, but 30 minutes next time. I think I’m going to remove and replace the few I’m having trouble with, then either refurbish or scrap the ones that I’m having difficulty closing.

    Super simple – for those potentially searching this via google, materials –

    -grinder+cutting wheel

    -a cold chisel or two (thanks Discoverie) – I bought these after I cut the slices and saw what size I needed, and the wrenches necessary to take the hose off the seacock and the nuts off the backing plate

    – long rod that fits in the through-hull

    – heavy hammer (one of those mini sledges worked great for me)

    1. Disconnect seacock on the inside from the backing plate. Mine (3/4″ Perko) was attached

    2. Cut “pizza slices” in the “mushroom” part of the through-hull. You can go all the way through but I didn’t on 4/5 cuts – just means a bit more pounding later.

    3. Whack the slices towards the center with aforementioned mini sledge + cold chisel. They will bend to the center and perhaps get stuck on neighbors, but you can either cut again or keep whacking – enough will knock it loose

    4. After all slices have fallen off, stick the metal rod in the hole (my through hull had a 90 degree bent pipe attached, which helped) and hit with the hammer. One tap freed mine.

    The 4th step was my fear – that after I demolished the through-hull I would discover that the whole thing was attached with 5200 and would still be impossible to remove. Based on how easily it came out (one mediocre strike), I think that was completely unfounded fear.

    Summary – this was SO much easier than anticipated. Thanks for the advice everyone, and hopefully this post helps someone in the future.

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    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    Attachments:
    1. 2016-06-14-13.43.41.jpg

    2. 2016-06-14-15.12.06.jpg

    3. 2016-06-14-17.35.30.jpg

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    in reply to: Cutter Backstay Rigging #221194
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    Here are the pictures. Mast side isn’t pictured, but they run up to a point halfway between the spreaders and top of the mast. Let me know if you need more.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    Attachments:
    1. Starboard running backstay

    in reply to: Replacing through-hulls #221192
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    My experience has been different so far. First I stuck a file in (read that this worked elsewhere) and used a wrench from the outside – shattered the file.

    Then I tracked down a grooved tool (concrete chisel possibly) that fit right in with the “tangs” inside, filling the role of a nipple wrench. Locked a pipe wrench on it and turned, shearing off both interior tangs. Now I have a smooth hole, so I think it’s cutting time.

    Deciding now whether to Sawzall the head off the mushroom or go with the above grinder+pizza slices idea.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    Attachments:
    1. PSX_20160614_152947.jpg

    in reply to: Cutter Backstay Rigging #221167
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    Ah, unfortunately can’t help there. They’re tensioned with a 3:1 pulley system + cam cleat. To adjust them I have to go a few feet ahead of the cockpit on deck.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

    in reply to: Cutter Backstay Rigging #221165
    robshookphoto
    Participant

    I’ve got a cutter. I can send pictures of running backstays when I’m there Wednesday. Can’t go up the mast because she’s on the hard, but I can shoot the rest.

    Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 31 total)