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Rodd,
On my last boat I cruised 30k n. miles with a pair of CQR’s on the bow. I had another, smaller CQR for a stern anchor, which I used when Med-mooring bow-to the quays throughout the Mediterranean during 2+ years there. In every kind of bottom ground and all kinds of weather, none of those anchors ever dragged once. What could you possibly switch to that would do better than that?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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This is sounding more and more like a B horror movie – scary and funny at the same time. Maybe PVC is the way to go after all, at least for us tropical sailors.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Rich. I guess you saw Bob’s comment that bronze valves in seawater are electrically connected by the
seawater so no strapping is necessary. The plot thickens.I’d be surprised if a home sprinkler system was made of bronze or stainless steel. Seems like an unnecessary
extravagance, but would be delighted to learn otherwise.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich,
Why would you need to ground each piece of metal?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I especially appreciate your input, Bob, since it’s based above all on educated engineering principles. If it’s true that a PVC manifold will pass muster with the federales, then it’s probably the the lesser of several evils and a smart, cost-efficient way to go.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Quent,
Using PVC below the waterline is not my personal preference. Also, I may need to get this past an insurance
surveyor. I’m still looking at options. Nobody seems to make seawater manifolds in any form & size I can use.
Stainless steel pipe fittings become awfully expensive for this, bronze is worse, and I don’t think there are
ball valves available in either material. You could probably stand on schedule 80 PVC pipe and not break it,
but I’m not clear on what is meant by “stand on it sideways against the hull.”Later today I’ll get a quote from my welder to custom-fabricate something in stainless for me.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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That’s a sobering story, Walter. Not sure what happened to you, or why. It doesn’t seem ‘sure enough’ that a fitting would inevitably fail at 75 psi, although that’s twice what my freshwater pump puts out.
Anyway, my (dedicated) deck washdown pump will be pulling, not pushing, except for the last few feet. It’s mounted just beneath the foredeck virtually at the stem, with a deck hose connection fitting just abaft and in between the anchors. It’s primary function is to rinse anchor chain as it comes aboard, though it can also serve to wash the decks or (heaven forbid) put out a fire.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Engineer Bob,
Is the problem with brass in seawater an issue of electrolysis, of the zinc being robbed from the zinc/copper alloy? And if so, would a simple pencil zinc incorporated into the brass manifold solve the problem?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich,
Marelon would be an ideal material, but do they make the fittings – T’s, coupling nipples, various size barbs, etc – that you’d need to put together a manifold similar to the one I made out of brass?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Sonofabitch! I didn’t know that (obviously). Glad to find out now, though, rather than during an offshore passage. Thank you all – Rich, Bob & John – for straightening me out. Looks like I’ll be returning a bunch of brass fittings to Home Depot.
Just this morning I happened to come across a bronze Groco raw water manifold that will feed 3 users from one source (http://www.groco.net/07-ftgs/07-sb-4-fs.htm and click on the manifold image). A pair of them might do the trick, but they don’t seem to make the size(s) I need.
I guess I’m back to Plan A, which is what you did, Bob. I’m not worried about freezing, either.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hey Bob,
I originally bought PVC fittings to make my manifold, but heard around the yard that an insurance surveyor might take issue with that. So I returned the fittings to Home Depot and swapped them for brass (photo attached). My end users are: watermaker, toilet, galley sink and deck washdown. The gate valve & barb at the left end are for a bilge rinse hose. I can pull off the feed barb at the other end to clean the length of the manifold occasionally, and can easily add on more T-gatevalve-barb sections for additional end users if I ever need to. I think it’s going to work well.
I put a grill over the thru-hull on the outside of the hull last haul-out. Was tempted to install a plastic Shurflo in-line water strainer (rated 150 psi) between the thru-hull and the manifold, but decided to use a bronze Groco or Raritan raw water strainer instead. They’re a lot more expensive, but I don’t like the idea of a plastic fitting adjacent to a thru-hull. Hoping to find a used Groco or whatever at Sailor’s Exchange next week. (Anybody out there have one they want to sell?!)
As for running hoses, tell me about it! I’ve just about completed a substantial replacement of the original hoses in Silver Heels during the past week or so. All the freshwater system hoses and all the sanitation hoses. Just waiting now for my 1-1/2″ & 3/4″ sanitation hose to arrive, hopefully tomorrow. BTW, I found a really cheap source for Series 148 sanitation hose, less than half the Port Supply price: http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/pdf/196.pdf .
Mounting a new toilet this afternoon. Fun.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Wow, that little?
I’m installing a seawater intake manifold that will draw from a thru-hull 3′ below the waterline. This will let me feed all of the seawater users in the boat from just one thru-hull – except for the engine, which has its own, dedicated thru-hull. Anyway, I wondered if reinforced Series 162 polyester reinforced clear PVC tubing (i.e., the kind of hose you’d normally use for your boat’s pressure freshwater system) would be all right to use between the thru-hull and the manifold. Its burst pressure is 250 lbs, so I guess it is strong enough.
Anyone know if there are there any ABS or USCG regs about hoses from below-waterline thru-hulls (other than the obvious double-clamping)?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hard to say if an offset installation would help or hinder. Seems like it’d cope better with the mizzen sail effects on one tack only. As for twin vanes, I’m squirming at the cost of one! A custom Cape Horn with twin, offset upper sections geared to a single lower unit would probably be doable, but beyond my budget.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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One of the attractions of the Cape Horn windvane is that it’ll only protrude inches from the transom, so I can
still carry my tender in the davits when I want to. The wind paddle, if that’s the one you’re asking about,
will be directly above the vertical steering gear tube and beneath the outboard end of the mizzen boom.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
Well, of course MY dad is smarter, but on the other points we’re in complete agreement. I’m aiming for an East Coast shakedown next summer, too, and then on to the Windward’s after storm season, also God willin’ and if the crick… What’d you say? Anyway, we’re bound to cross wakes at some point.
My point isn’t to pit Cape Horn against Monitor or Sailomat or Aires and prove one is better or worse, but rather to kick around what I’m thinking of doing, get some smart feedback (which, thanks to this group, I have), and if there’s enough interest, maybe cut a deal for a ‘group order’ as we did with the mast pulpits. You guys who already have Monitor windvanes are all set and I can tell you from experience you’ve got an excellent piece of gear there.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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