Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I’ve had hose clamps break, too, but you can almost always see it coming if you inspect them closely. Even the cheap ones with ferrous metal screws last many years as long as they’re not immersed in saltwater. Check back with me in a decade or two and I’ll let you know how these held up.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Sorry, Adam, but you’re asking the wrong guy. I can just about change the oil in my car. If you want the absolute truth from a guy who really knows, call Cass at 904-731-0060. He’s a nice old guy with a lifetime of hand-on knowledge about Paragon and most other marine transmissions. He’s been through all of their training schools over the decades and has rebuilt more units than anyone I know of. You can take whatever he says as gospel.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
When I bought Silver Heels her Paragon/Walter combo had also presumably been freewheeling – for 30 years! I suppose that says something. I put in a new Yanmar, but kept the original transmission & V-drive. The day I sea-trailed the new engine the transmission gave up the ghost. The guy who subsequently re-built it for me, an old pro who has specialized in Paragon trannies for decades, said it had probably been rammed between forward and reverse on occasion without pausing to let the RPM’s drop down in neutral (not by me!), and that this and general old age were the probable causes of the failure. I’m going to call him today or Monday and ask him about freewheeling. If anyone would know the facts, it is he.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
John,
Seems like the “better solution” you seek might be a shaft lock or brake, no?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Smart. That’s why I like running stuff by an engineer. I have a Paragon transmission, which I gather cannot be allowed to freewheel. Too bad. Otherwise, I’d put a generator or an alternator on the shaft, too.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pat,
Helpful and fun to peruse.
Thank you,
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Oooo, I’m getting that drill stand.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Lee,
I’ve set up the vanity counter and lockers, to port in the forepeak, as a workbench. I have not mounted a vice there yet because I currently have a full-size work bench on the dock next to the boat where I do the heavier work and the vice is mounted on that. However, I will install the vice in the forepeak before I set sail in earnest. Not sure exactly how & where yet. Would be interested in solutions from you and others regarding a swing-out or removable base for that.
I disconnected the forepeak vanity sink plumbing and sealed the thru-hull last year. Three sinks in a 42′ boat seemed overdone to me. When I get around to it, I plan to cut out the entire sink & faucet assembly and replace it with a flush hatch to gain access to a large, wasted space beneath for more tool storage.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I had the manual handle last time and never used it. This unit I have now didn’t come with a handle and I’m not planning to get one. Sure, there’s always the “what if” factor, but I keep plenty of fresh water in reserve in case the watermaker fails.
I’ve been tempted to convert the forward water tank to storage, too, but have not had the need so far. Right now it’s plumbed and ready to function as Pearson intended in case I ever want more water capacity. Interesting that one 424 owner I met told me his boat points higher with the forward water tank filled.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hey Bob,
I believe these 12V watermakers started out in the mid-80’s under the brand name “Recovery Engineering,” and I had a ’35’ on my last cruising boat. It was GREAT! Used it continuously for 6 years. So I picked up a factory-refurbished PowerSurvivor 40E to install in Silver Heels. Have not quite gotten to that yet, but will soon. My thought is to put it in an existing box-like locker beneath the mid-ship companionway ladder, or else in the narrow space just abaft the starboard water tank.
Will be interested to know what you decide to do.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
John,
I use your inventory program regularly and value it highly. Still entering stuff a bit at a time and have a ways to go before it’s complete, but even what I have helps me find stuff often. Needless to say, I’ll be downloading and using your maintenance schedule program, too. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
What kind of dry-out time do the experts recommend before doing a peel & seal on the bottom?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Aaron,
There are some other considerations regarding the “correct amount of rope,” or “line” as Bob corrected me
yesterday. In choppy conditions, the boat and anchors benefit by having some stretch in the rode. Chain alone
can’t provide that. It’ll cushion the bucking or pitching shock up to a point simply by its own weight having
to lift off the bottom, but when it does straighten out there is a violent shock to the system. In extreme
conditions something eventually has to break. Nylon line provides the necessary buffer, acting as a shock
absorber because of it’s stretchy nature. When you anchor with an all chain rode, you may benefit by attaching
a length of nylon line to the chain with a chain hook or a rolling hitch, feed out another 15′-30′ of chain,
depending on conditions, and then take up the tension on the line & secure it to the bow. The first 15′-30′ or
whatever of chain then hangs slightly limp from the bow.Taking this a step further, you can install a strong, back-plated eye bolt in the stem just a foot or so above
the waterline and splice or shackle a length of anchor line to it. The bitter end attaches to the all-chain
rode as described and gets fed out when you anchor, again so that the line takes the strain and the first
section of chain is limp. This not only provides the rode stretch when needed, but lowers the angle of pull on
the anchor and so reduces the amount so scope necessary for a given depth of water.OK, I’ve probably said too much. I’m off to the bilges to run new sanitation hoses. Fun!
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Silver Heels’ anchors are similar: 45 lb CQR w/150′ chain & 100′ of line, 66 lb Manta claw anchor w/50′ chain & 150′ line, plus lots more anchor line in ready reserve. At the stern a 22 lb Danforth, maybe 25′ chain & lots of line, but only 1/2″ this side of the Atlantic.
Yeah, you’re probably right. Thought I’d read that about anchor rope somewhere, but now can’t place it.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rodd,
In my opinion, how much chain you “need” depends on your cruising grounds. In general, more is better. For cruising long-distance, I like 200-250′ of chain + 100′ of rope on the primary anchor. On the secondary bow anchor, 50′ of chain plus at least 200′ of rope. (I think it’s OK to use the word “rope” when referring to anchor rodes.) On the stern anchor I use only 25′ of chain, the rest rope.
As for switching manually from gypsy to capstan, you might be able to upgrade your windlass to a gypsy that handles both chain and line. You can then connect the chain and rope with a long chain splice and the gypsy will handle the transition all by itself, without you having to hump the rode from one drum to the other.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
