[cbboat]

This is on a P367

http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=19

[cbboat]

Skipmac

Not sure what you have planned for inboard pole end fitting and tack car for that inboard end, but you might want to check track car availability for 1″ track. There are limited car choices when storing the pole up the mast and I think none will fit 1″ track, with forespar having cornered the market. The issue seems to be range of motion without binding between the pole and and mast attachment.

http://www.forespar.com/products/sail-mast-car.shtml
http://search.defender.com/search.aspx?expression=Forespar+Sai180F
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/category/1-Forespar-Mast-Cars.html

[cbboat]

Never mind, dumb question, it was late.
Of course it needs a fuse, just in case the cable gets chafed and shorts.

[cbboat]

Rich,
The Zap Stop issue:
Instead of anther fuse (the zap stop), have a separate wire from alternator to the house battery positive terminal.

Then have a different cable connecting the house bank with the positive bus bar (this wire is fused).

This puts two cables terminating on the house positive post, one is from the alternator (not fused), one connects house to positive bus bar (fused).

My concern with the zap stop is that if it blows or fails and I am unaware of that failure, I’m no better of than without a zap stop.

@RichCarter wrote:

If your 400A fuse blows while your engine is running, you’ll toast your alternator diodes. A zap-stop might be advised.
http://www.emarineinc.com/products/Balmar-TSP-12-Transient-Spike-Protector-Zap-Stop.html

Rich

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[cbboat]

Rich,

Echo charger splits off the incoming charge to the batteries that need it. Don’t know how it works, PFM maybe!

http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx

[cbboat]

Thanks Pat,
Attachments heading your way shortly.

Craig

[cbboat]

Here is one less cluttered.
Sleep well, talk to you tomorrow.

Craig

[cbboat]

Thanks for the tips.

It looks like I’m off to get new batteries. The remaining one still shows full, but still drops to zero with load put on it (i.e. water pressure pump, spreader lights, etc…).

I’m just going to get rid of them (dead steamed one and remaining unknown age wet cell) and get some 6v golf cart batteries. I found a local supplier of US Battery US2000 XC2 232 AH batteries for $120 without core.

Thanks again for the help.

[cbboat]

Thanks for the help.

I found the manufacturer of the steamed battery and they confirmed that it is a sealed wet cell battery. So that one is shot because a lot of steam came out of that one.

I will now focus on the remaining battery to see if I can limp along until I can get to the now-upcoming battery replacement project.

Bob, I’ll go clean and retighten the terminals and connections, then see if that remaining battery gets to behaving better. If not, I’ll be getting four golf cart batteries and doing some wire cleanup.

It’s on the gulf coast, in Alabama.

[cbboat]

Thanks Bob.

I figured a wiring diagram would be necessary, but I don’t have one and the wiring is such a mess of spaghetti that it is hard to determine what goes where. All I can discern now is where the large ga wires go.

This diagram is likely not 100% accurate and only shows the larger ga wires. The smaller ga wires connected to the batteries and perko switches were too tangled to trace with certainty.

http://bodylens.com/battery/batterydiagram.pdf

Neg terminals wired together.
Yes, the batteries are mixed. Battery2 is wet cell, Battery 1 is the sealed. All I know is that it is sealed and probably not the best because it’s a 4D that I could easily lift out of the boat and carry to the garage. Also, the receipts from PO show a 4D with at price of around $160

The mystery box pictures are of the same box, what you identified as the windlass reversing solenoid. I should have named the image more clearly. Thanks for identifying that piece.

Age: I’ve had the boat for about 2 years. The blown battery was about a year old, so it’s 3 years old. Battery 2 (the wet cell 4D) is older, age unknown.

If Battery 2 shows full charge, but upon running a device, its volts drop to < 5v, is that battery also shot or could a lose ground also cause that type of reaction?

[cbboat]

I had same symptoms you describe, lots of air mixed with water. Solution was to tighten hose claim I had forgotten to tighten. Maybe you have a crack in a line and it is sucking air.

[cbboat]

Tor. Enjoy the stove parts. It’s in skip’s hands now.

[cbboat]

Tor, Skipmac, Adam

I am traveling between Gulf Shores to Crystal River on weekend of Feb 28 – March 3rd/4th and back to GS if anyone needs something go to westward.

Skipmac wants it and will get it from me when I am in Crystal River.

Tor, you get your stove parts in FL.

Adam, PM me for contact and we’ll talk about when to put the stove in my truck for deliver to FL.

One caveat: it’s a family trip to FL and if a kid gets really sick we’ll probably cancel. The good news is that we’re all sick now so we should be good-to-go in 2 or 3 weeks! 😉

[cbboat]

Thanks for the info, especially all ya’ll who have done this before. I figured tapering hole and patching was the way to go.

Quent:
Is there a seacock on the through hull? no, previous bozo put a ball valve directly on a mushroom thru hull.
If so, what’s it’s condition? seems ok, but hard to get to and not really needed.
Is the through hull plastic or bronze? bronze
Is it above or below the waterline? below
Location? waaayyyy down in port cockpit locker, real PITA to get to.

I don’t want it anymore, too hard to get to, broken, bad installation, used for generator and I tee’d of engine seacock with ball valves, since i don’t run them simultaneously.

[Author]

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