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cstewart
ParticipantThanks Bob. I was wondering where you’ve been since I saw you in Beaufort.
cstewart
ParticipantI’m sorry, I wasn’t clear about which gasket. I was referring to the gasket that sits in the groove in the window lid, and presses against the lip on the imbedded frame. I didn’t replace the glass.
My boat lived in fresh water with the PO it’s first 30 years (great Lakes) and I brought her under the George Washington bridge in NY on August 8, 2011 and she now resides in the Gulf of Mexico in Alabama (welcome to UV, heat, salt, humidity and hurricanes). The point to that is that I have very little wear from salt corrosion. That’s the good news, but I still suffer from “old boat syndrome”. My rubber is hard from old age. My cast aluminum ports seem to be in pretty good shape, considering. Any ideas on replacing the lid gaskets?
Thanks,
Charlie. Hull 54cstewart
ParticipantRich: I read your post about refurbishing the original aluminum opening ports and I am doing the same thing. Mine are not leaking around the mounted frame, so I see no need to take them out. I have removed the inside port door and sanded where the pieces fit together with 220 then 400 wet-dry sandpaper. I am looking for gaskets to replace the old ones and wonder if you or anyone has a suggestion or recommendation of where to get them.
I polished the inside port door with a felt wheel and green rouge, and it makes it look like polished stainless steel. I would do the mounted part if I were to take them off, but that is more work than I want to do for something that isn’t broken.
Thanks,
Charliecstewart
ParticipantWell, we only had to tack twice, but it was about 80-90 degrees from hard starboard to hard port tack. I think a full batten main and mizzen help this boat point better than Bill Shaw ever dreamed. We also moved the mizzen sheet pivot point to windward with a block so that it matched the trim of the main traveler.
cstewart
ParticipantThanks Pete. I love the magazine but but I always held off because of the relatively high price. This makes it a good deal. I’m going with it.
Thanks again,
Charliecstewart
ParticipantSorry for the delay. I did go by Academy and I bought two more lights. I also went to Key West, Dry Torgugas, Tampa and Gulf Shores, Alabama, so I haven’t been very good at responding to emails.
The light is by SeaSense and it is called an LED Task light. They are in the boating section hanging on the pegboard. They list for $12.99 and they have 18 led’s. I have replaced several of the smaller lights with these and they work great. However for the overhead cabin lights I have just put in the West Marine 6.5 inch light that has 36 led’s. It is very bright and I plan to replace all of the cieling lights with them. Through Port Supply they are about $33 each. The best discounts seem to be on those items that have a West Marine logo.
We did an “amp cost” test with each light and compared them with the led’s. The incandescednt bulbs jumped the meter about 2 amps for each lamp while the led’s (even the 36 led ceiling lamp) barely moved the needle, if any at all. The Dr. LED anchor light was negligible. I am all in for LED lights now. The only thing is that they get cheaper the more you procrastinate.cstewart
ParticipantI plan to go back over to our Acadamy Sports today, so I will get the model numbers.
Stand-by.
Charliecstewart
ParticipantSorry, that’s not the one I have. I have the reading lamps that were mounted above the aft bunk. The bulb looks like a projector bulb and probably uses the same amps. They are swivil also, but I never saw the originals that would have been in the main salon. My PO had already replaced them I guess. BTW, Academy Sports has, in their boating section, LED fixtures that are plug and play replacements for the small lamps that I am refering to over the aft bunk. They are $12 ea., have 12 LEDs, and are in a white fixture with switch.
cstewart
ParticipantPat:
Thank you for the information. I am planning on making a fitted matress cover to take with me back down to the boat. I’ve never done that before but I do have a sewing maching and I have made hatch covers and motor covers, etc. (things you really can’t screw up) so I thought I would try matress covers. I have 4 days. Next I may do fitted sheets for the V-berth and the aft cabin. If anyone has any experience doing this, I can sure use any advice.
Thanks,
Charliecstewart
ParticipantAre you talking about the swivel reading lamps? If so, I think I have a couple of extras.
cstewart
ParticipantPete: I’ve been trying to keep up with your articles in BWS but it is nice that we can see them posted here. Thanks for thinking of us.
Is your boat still on the hard in Colorado? I have left my boat in the Keys and we are going to be in the Denver/Breckenridge area the last week of February. I would love to drop by (you’re in Ft. Collins?) and see your boat if that is possible. All of the work you are doing sounds outstanding. I laughed at your comment that cruising should not be repair work at exotic ports. I think I’ve been doing that for 1.5 years.
Charlie Stewart
“OneEighty”
P-424, #54
770-313-5115cstewart
ParticipantWalter: the seal kit you are talking about may be enough. The pump is working well, just beginning to seep fuel down the side. When I talked to the lady at TransAtlantic Diesel (Sherri Moon) that Bill Tice sent me to, she kinda suggested the same thing. She did not have in stock the model# that she sent to Bill in 2010. That number was DPA 3249F520, although, Bill, she seemed confused that it was for a Westerbeke 50?? She did say I could take it off and send it to her for a rebuild and that would take about 3 weeks.
Bill, she said you paid $750 for the pump plus a $450 core, which you got back when you sent in the old. My fear in taking something apart for the first time is that parts, springs and gizmos start falling out and I’ll never get them back where they belong.
I am still in the process of determining if the pump is the same on the W60 and W58 by going to Torresen as Pete suggested. To be continued.
cstewart
ParticipantPete: I have no idea if the w58 I-pump will work on the w60. If it does, I’m interested. I guess somebody rebuilds them maybe?
Bill: I will try to contact Sherri and see what she has. Thanks for the ideas.
cstewart
ParticipantThanks, Bill.
I called Atlantic Diesel and they asked me for a model# or DBA number that she said was on a tag or on the pump. I am not on the boat, but I am looking at a zoomed photo of the injector, and I see no such ID. Do you happen to have a copy of the injector model # or the DBA# (whatever that is).
I would like to order one ahead of time before it blows out and then I don’t have anything.
Thanks.
Charliecstewart
ParticipantThat is not our boat, however the retrofit is similar. Ours has a double closet without the drawers. Most of my navigation is via laptop on the engine house and the chartploter in the cockpit so I have not missed the nav-sta. Susie uses the entire closet and I am relegated to the hole by the engine. It keeps her happy and on the boat.
I will get some pics out if I figure out how.
Don’t feel sorry for Bob. He is cruising in style and comfort on a mega-Krogan that has it’s own proprietary wi-fi satellite connection. I haven’t found a marina yet with good Internet service. -
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