[cstewart]

Hey Bob, I can’t remember if your boat is a ketch or a sloop. When I met you in Beaufort, you were on a Krogan, if you remember. I am wondering how well the panels will work mounted on davits under the shade of the mizzen? I have heard that solar panels are very unforgiving to shade spots, so I have hesitated with adding panels. I was actually thinking of mounting them on the cockpit stanchions and having them fold out when I wanted them sunning, like little wings, though that probably wouldn’t work too well while sailing. I’ve seen that done on several boats and their skippers seem to like that. I know you well enough to know you researched it in depth before making your decisions. So what’s your logic.

[cstewart]

I hate to resurrect this dead horse but all those nice things I said about Seaworthy Insurance will now have to be re-evaluated. I just got my renewal and with great care NOT to file any claims last year, they went up on my premium by 22%. When I asked them why, since I was obviously experienced enough and capable enough to sail several thousand miles and have no wrecks or claims (they should in fact reduce my premium), they replied that it was because of Hurricane Sandy. Then I started my Geography lesson about where the Gulf of Mexico is and where New Jersey is. It seems they didn’t care, and went on explaining how they were going to spread the expense to all customers, because….Hurricanes happen, and we all have to bear the expense. I tried to remind them that when I moved the boat from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, they charged me an up-lift premium, then, because Hurricanes happen..down there. I agreed and paid the up-lifted charge. But then this Hurricane comes along, and its not even mine, it is a NEW JERSEY hurricane, and they want to charge me a premium. Another premium. I reminded them that they already did that when I went to Hurricane Alley, now they were double dipping. To no avail. If I want the insurance I will pay the premium. I will probably do that, but right now I just need to *itch.

thanks for listening. Charlie

[cstewart]

Joe: about the weight of the Boston Whaler Squall, it used to be about 300#s before I restored it. That is because the liner had been breached and there was water in the flotation stuff in the hull. I had to open her up and let her cook out for several months in the garage. Now that that she is sealed and dry, I would guess she is about half that weight. Lighter, but still more than I want to single hand up onto my deck. I don’t have davits, and have wondered if they might carry the weight.

And, Tor: as for sailing the small boat, I find as much pleasure in that as I do making a crossing in the big boat. When I had a sea-scout ship we would require the kids to sail a sunfish efficiently without a rudder so they would know the feel and characteristics of sail trim and weight distribution. I still think that affects sailing a big boat, only it is harder to “feel”.

[cstewart]

Tor: I have a beautiful Boston Whaler Squall, which is a 9 foot sailer, rowboat, and takes up to a 15hp motor. I have had the boat for over 20 years and used it as a dinghy for my previous Pearson 323, although it was too heavy to get up onto the boat. It towed great on a painter since it has a full length keelson, then for sailing it has a retractable centerboard keel. It towed so well that on a following sea it would outurn the big boat and often crashed into the stern ladder. Not good. I took it as a winter project last year, took it home and did a total refurbish. After major sanding & glass repairs it has 2 coats of Interlux system 2000 barrier coat on the whole thing , and then is finished with Interlux brightside. Finished out really nice. Now I don’t want to scratch it, so it just sits in my garage. I took an old West Marine 9ft inflatable to Georgetown this year and it just totally came apart. I replaced it with a hard bottom inflatable when I got back to Marathon, and still don’t use the Boston Whaler. I hope you can see the pics at this url if it works: https://picasaweb.google.com/101211161196102038779/BostonWhalerDinghy2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWXuJKX3-XeuQE#

[cstewart]

I recall that Berkshire’s Seaworthy used to be the Boat US underwriter, but no more, as of a few years ago. My premium of $1500 yr includes an agreed upon hull value of $70k. I added a Bahamas rider in Jan this year which covered down to Turks & Cacaos for about $35.00. No one asked about experience or singlehanding. I have no idea if the insurance is any good, I’ve never used it. Hope I don’t have to.

[cstewart]

Pete: congratulations on getting Regina Oceana wet again. Can’t wait to see her in salt water. I just got my insurance renewal and it is $1500 year for all US and Canada waters which includes our home port in Gulf Shores, hurricane alley. It is with Seaworthy Insurance a Berkshire Hathaway company.

[cstewart]

Tor: I am late getting in on this discussion, its all been said, but I do recommend the UGRIB over other grib files. Igrib is available on the iPhone which is handy except in other countries where I dont have cell service. I’ve been using it for about 3 years and like the way you see wind, rain and isobars wherever the curser is. Good for crossings planning and it gives you 7 days. It is as accurate as anything else in the world, though it is still a “forecast”. One drawback is that it is in UTC time, and that forces me to think backwards 5 or 6 hours. If there is a way to set it for local time, someone let me know.
Charlie

[cstewart]

Quent:
This is also a good time to remind yourself to make sure and block it to the forward part of the keel and not the back. I thought of it about 5 minutes after the travel-lift pulled away. I had them come back and move the blocks.

[cstewart]

When I bought my boat 3 years ago, the yard (Sandusky OH) of the previous owner was adamant that he wanted to lift boat from the aft of the keel, though it was close to the shaft, he thought it was o.k. He lifted it that way twice a year for 18 years with no damage to my knowledge. He would tie a rope between the fore and aft straps to keep them from sliding back on to the shaft. Now that I have the boat, I disagree with him, and I give the lift operator the boat diagram that shows the aft placement behind the prop and forward the rudder, on my boat it is just aft the mizzen mast. I have now marked it on the gunnel. Then, I go get that cup of coffee. I would hate to see what that strap would do to the max-prop if he missed.
On the last haulout the operator engaged me in a questionnaire where he would say, is this it?, do you like this position?, do you want me to go with it here?. I realized he was smartly transferring the responsibility to me. That’s why I will now go get the coffee.

[cstewart]

Thanks everybody for your ideas and wisdom on all the questions I have been asking recently. For the low pressure fuel pump, I have installed an electric diesel pump and plumed it so I can use it or bypass it. The old mechanical pump is still working fine, and this will serve as a backup, and also as a primer when I change filters. I just didn’t want to go to a far-away port with no way to repair the fuel pump, which is the only thing that hasn’t broken yet.

Regarding the high pressure injector pump that went bad. I have taken it off and sent it to Test Calibration, a specialty shop in Mobile Alabama and they rebuilt it for $583. It had a bad metering valve, bad transfer pump, and all seals and gaskets needed replacing. Glad I didn’t try that at home.

While the engine was torn down, I replaced all the hoses (including water heater hose) and belts, and sure nuff, like I read in an earlier discussion, I had a vacuum in the line and it ran hot…but I knew what to do.

I also replaced the throttle cable and with the help of you guys, learned how to get to the blasted inside of the Edson pedestal which is like impossible. I did employ a new trick that I will share. Since the throttle cable goes through the alternator belts, in order to change the belts (on the old W60), you have to remove the throttle cable and kill cable from the engine. I just bought two sets of belts and put a spare set on the cable and zip-tied them back to the bulkhead so that it will be much easier to replace the next ones if one should break.

Thanks.
Charlie
OneEighty
P424k, #54

[cstewart]

Low pressure. This is the mechanical pump attached to the engine, Westerbeke part #17755. Are you talking about an electric pump?
Thanks ,
Charlie

[cstewart]

Amen on on the advantages of stowing the pole up high off the deck. I know that because I stow mine on the deck and it gets crusty. I have to treat it like my outboard motor and the Honda 2000, use them often whether I need to or not. Besides, a mast track with slides is pretty expensive.

[cstewart]

For what it’s worth, mine is a 12-18 ft telescope with 3.5 diameter, aluminum Works great. Kinda heavy, though. Stores on a bracket on the stanchions. Genoa is a 135.

[cstewart]

Thanks, Rich:
with your post I was able to find the Edson technical bulletin that lays it out pretty well. Now I see what everyone was talking about.
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/maintenance/eb92316.php

[cstewart]

Thanks for the input. Skipmac, per Patricks experience, do you think I should have to remove the cog assembly also, or were you able to manuver the old cable to get it out and the new cable into place to screw it down into the clip?

[Author]

Posts