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Turns out my “hot” running engine was due to stuck thermometer….I picked
up a NAPA #139….the boat is now running 180.John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME
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John,
Boat you saw was “Bead Game” out of the Bronx. They were in Belfast around
the same time. We met up with them at the SSCA Gam in Isleboro. I ran into
another 424 while cruising Maine, Juno. This used to be Veritas…It is now
owned by a Sweedish couple (he is a yacht designer is Sweeden). They cruise
New England every summer.Bob,
Thanks for the tip…any suggestion on the Rod? The passages are very
small….I don’t want use a piece of coat hanger as I am sure the passages
are pretty thin copper.John
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Hello,
I too have noticed that my engine is running hotter as I head south…I
worked through the system and noticed that my heat exchanger had some sea
grass and a build up of scale. I’ll try the West Marine stuff and see how
that works.I recall a similar conversation some time back and someone recommended
boiling the heat exchanger in muric acid. If adding this West Marine stuff
this is an easier solution, then it beats having to remove the exchanger
(and drain all the coolant). After cleaning out the gunk…things seam to
be better. We have long motor sail to the Cape Cod canal tomorrow…that
will be the test. I will have to remove the scale at some point, as I am
heading towards warmer waters and I’ll need a more efficient heat exchanger.Thanks for the tips.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
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mine is a bit different…I just replaced the pads. I had to “unhook” the
assembly and then replaced the pads and re-installed.
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I have uploaded the picture…..
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You can get them at napa….I think they are volvo break pads. Just bring
one and they can match them up.
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Hello,
I’ve been having some issues post to the list:
I have put up a picture of the bulb I am trying to replace….is this the
same bulb that you found a replacement for…look at that light bulb here:I have not been able to find an LED with similar dimensions. Suggestions?
Hello,
I just had some extensiive work done on Indulgences drive train…because time constraints(I needed to help taking care of my father), I had the boat year do the work…ouch!
At the end of last season, I found oil dripping from my v-drive. I decided to have it re-built. My thoughts were while they are there, they might as well do the cutlass bearing (8+ years since last replacement) and to replace the suffing box with a dripless one. They also replaced the output shaft from the engine, as well as numerous hoses, etc. The v-drive looks brand-new and the PYI dripliss stuffing box is installed and looks good. Beautiful job…looks great…only now I have to sell one of my kids to pay for it all.
Turns out the reason for the oil was leaking was that there was a shim that caused some miss-alignment and the resulting oil leak. Hence, definately check your alignment.
Since we are planning on heading south this year, I was especially sensitive to any potential issues…especially with the V-drive. I imagined my family stuck in some remote island in the bahamas waiting for a new/rebuilt v-drive.
Now I can enjoy that island…less one kid.
John Sommer
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I’m have a drippless one put in this winter. I had to pull the V-drive, so I decided to replace the stuffing box as well as the cutlass bearing.
I’ll let you know how it turns out.
John
Indulgence— On Thu, 12/17/09, Patrick Walters <> wrote:
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Hello Eric,
I have a shaefer 7 series block at the head of the mast. I run smaller lines as my spinnaker is .75 oz. I have a tacker with a downhaul set up.
I am having the sailmaker make a spinnaker sleave for me this winter as taking the thing down is a 4 person job: one kid to stuff, another kid to ease the halyard, wife to steer the boat and me to pull the thing in via the sheet.
Having the spinnaker has ment more sailing and less motoring. In light winds, especially downwind we fly the spinnaker.
John Sommer
Indulgence 179
Portland, MEI haven’t used my Asym much in the last few years, but
that won’t stop me from offering advice.I assume the tang you refer is the one common to all of the
424 mast I’ve seen, and it is intended for a Spinnaker
halyard. Any good quality swivel block for the size
halyard you choose should work fine. It just needs to
articulate 90 degress, port and starboard and 90 degrees
from vertical to horizontal. I would recommend 7/16″
low stretch rope for the halyard (e.g., StaSet-X).The one thing you will need to rig is a down haul for the
tack of the Spinnaker. I use an ATN tacker that fits
around the furled Genoa. I rig a downhaul from the tacker
to a block on the stem fitting and the down haul is led back
to the cockpit. I keep the down haul permanently rigged on
the side of the cabin trunk to eliminate one job during the
setup.Others have attached the down haul directly to the tack of
the sail and fly it free. The ATN tacker keeps the tack
close to the forestay, and (IMO) makes it easier to trim and
control.However you rig the tack of the sail, make sure you can
release it quickly. The fastest way to depower an
over-powered spinnaker is to release the tack. That makes
the ATN snuffer useless, but you can bring the sail onto the
deck by releasing the halyard and hauling in on the sheet.The one thing I haven’t finished on my setup is the
ability to snuff the spinnaker from the cockpit when I’m
single-handing.John
On Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 10:19 AM,
Eric Lorentzon <>
wrote:Hi Folks,
I just added a symmetrical spinnaker to my sail
inventory and am looking for suggestions on rigging. My
current plan is to use an ATN Tacker and a sock for sail
management.
I am not sure what to do at the mast head. There is
the tange off the forward port side that I figured would
hold the block for the spinnaker halyard. The sail is a 160%
for the boat measuring 45’10” with a 24″
girth.Any reccomendations on Halyard block and lines would
be greatly appreicated.
We are out of the water with masts down (re-wire
planed too.)
Eric
SV Navasana—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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I have the same platform on Indulgence….I carry a #45 CQR and 25 HT Danforth. Works great…no issues. Also is a nice diving platform.
— On Thu, 9/24/09, Patrick Walters <> wrote:
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Patrick,
I have a similar setup as John…IC 718 with a SGC 230, with an insulated backstay as my antenna, and copper foil as a ground plane. I run neon tube power cable from my sgc 230 to the antenna (you can purchase 25′ from Hamilton Maring for 25$)
I have been very happy with the performance and have recieved good signal reports.
— On Wed, 7/22/09, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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I replaced my chain plates last year.
I pulled all the plates, ordered the stainless bar stock and had a local machine shop drill and shape them. The good news is that all the holes were the same.
I did not polish the chain plates as the ones I pulled were not polished. I could see no major issues, but replaced them all.
Total cost was less than $400.
