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John,
My comments below.On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 11:32 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Pearson 424 Group
Planning on rewiring and re-fitting items on mast
Any tips on:
Removing old SS screws that don't want to come outI've had success with an impact driver and PBlaster type lubricants/solvents. Sometimes I've had to give it one wack with the impact driver in the tighten direction before starting the other way. When all else fails drill it out. So far I haven't had to do that on this mast.
Proper drilling/tapping procedures
A centering punch is handy and a good metal drill bit. It's very easy to let the drill bit walk just enough so that the holes don't line up with whatever fitting you intend to attach to the mast.
Helpful Aids Tuf-Gel, Lanacote, Tap Magic and where to get them
I've used Tef-Gel in the past. I forgot where I got it. You used to be able to get it from WM until they started offering their own brand. I think you can find dealers in your area through the USS web-site: http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor
What to use to prevent corrosion
Nothing so far.
Any help will be appreciated
John MARIPOSA #216 (Cutter) South Haven MI
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Walter,
I heard the same rumor, actually a surveyor told he would write up any installation as a code violation, but since I don't have one I never tested this position. I doubt I would go that way with only 2 6# propane tanks on board. Now if I had 2 20# tanks …On Tue, Apr 8, 2008 at 10:24 AM, Walter Piescik < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I have been wondering about these.I have decided against, as I have heard that no surveyor will give you boat
a clean bill of health (I guess with regards to insurance) if you have one.
Treat this statement as rumor; I read it somewhere, and can't quote my
source.I have thought about the little Colman unit to be able to make hot water out
in the cockpit, but I fear that it would end up in the galley. I only intend
to live on the boat for a few months, so the hot water from solar and engine
should be enough. This would just be a little luxury item.http://www.heatershop.com/coleman_hot_water_heater_2300_700.html
Original Message
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I'd be interested if you find anything suitable for the 424. They pretty much disappeared from the North American market when the industry over reacted (IMO) to a couple of deaths resulting from installation issues (no vent) and operator error (vent closed). I think they're a pretty common household appliance in the rest of the world.
On Tue, Apr 8, 2008 at 9:59 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Tor,If you can't find an on-demand unit in marine stores, I'm sure you can in an RV market. They use them all the time with nearly the same environment (well, maybe not as corrosive).
Bob
On Tue, Apr 8, 2008 at 9:29 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Rich, when you say “under the aft bunk”, your not
talking about the forward end if the port sail locker
are you?
alanQuote:Alan
I replaced mine last year with a 11gal unit. It fit
in the same space under the aft bunk. I sent out
notes and photos of the installation if you missed
them. Installation wasn't straightforward.—
Rich Carter
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Tor,
I've finished the virus scan and nothing showed up in the those files, but 3 viruses were found. I still think it is prudent not to have opened those files and done a virus scan if you have.
I'll be doing some very cautious testing for a few more days before I do any more releases.John
On Fri, Apr 4, 2008 at 6:42 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks for the timely warning, John. I was just about to dive in. Instead, I've deleted the attachments you sent and will wait for the next round.Thanks again for this great program!
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Tor,
Sounds like a good, protected location for the light. Wish I’d thought of it.
I agree you should be able to get the pulpit stanchion clear of the cap rail enough to drill the hole and run the wire for the light. You might consider removing all the stanchions while you’re at it and check the bedding. My pulpit had no bedding under any of the stanchions – the source of a leak in one of the forward cabin lockers. I did it without totally removing the pulpit – just did one side a time.John
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Pete,
That's what we call the “next release”. Currently you have to close the spreadsheet and re-open it to re-activate the menus.
The macros (actually VB code) should be available under that VB editor (Tools/Macro/VB Editor on the Excel menu)On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 9:39 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
This is really cool John. I thought I was pretty good with Excel, but I
bow at your feet.So tell me, how does one bring back the menus once they close? I did
not find any macros to edit and study. Where are they or how did you do
this?Thanks,
PEte
John Stevenson wrote:
Lee,
In the past I've used exclusively manual inventory spreadsheets that
allowed me to sort and print the inventory in a quasi-organized
format, but it really didn't provide me with inventory control, just a
baseline and penciled-in changes on a printed inventory. Because of
the limitations these spreadsheets were used only for consumable items
(e.g., food) and not spare parts and other important inventory items.
I was never satisfied with this approach, but it allowed my to get by.
Because of your post and Pete Dubler's spreadsheet I have been
motivated to re-look at this application. I spent this afternoon
developing an inventory spreadsheet based on Pete's locker graphic
that may eventually (if I actually finish it) provide a database of
inventory items that can be sorted, printed, edited and whatever.
I've attached the current version of this spreadsheet. Most of the
functions are just stubs (respond to mouse clicks, but don't do
anything). The only function that works is the Inventory Entry
function. I have used it to inventory the contents of one locker on
Sarah. I have provided this very preliminary application not to
solicit input on things that should be included in the final product,
but just to let you know someone is looking at this with the P424
specifically in mind. It'll be a free application if I ever finish it
as my motivation to do this is to satisfy my requirements. However,
my goal is that the application can be modified by Excel-knowledgeable
users without having to learn VBA (the application code).
Pete,
One thing I could use is your graphic of the storage lockers on Regina
Oceani. I'd like to modify that graphic for the different locker
configurations on the various P424s.John
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 4:54 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])
There's an excel sheet on the website that works ok.
On 3/28/08 7:55 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote :
I am looking for software that will help me remember where I
have stored stuff in the boat and keep track of how much of
each kind of stuff I have left. I've looked around the web
with no success. Does anyone have a suggestion?Lee Y.
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John Stevenson
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Lee,
In the past I've used exclusively manual inventory spreadsheets that allowed me to sort and print the inventory in a quasi-organized format, but it really didn't provide me with inventory control, just a baseline and penciled-in changes on a printed inventory. Because of the limitations these spreadsheets were used only for consumable items (e.g., food) and not spare parts and other important inventory items. I was never satisfied with this approach, but it allowed my to get by.
Because of your post and Pete Dubler's spreadsheet I have been motivated to re-look at this application. I spent this afternoon developing an inventory spreadsheet based on Pete's locker graphic that may eventually (if I actually finish it) provide a database of inventory items that can be sorted, printed, edited and whatever.
I've attached the current version of this spreadsheet. Most of the functions are just stubs (respond to mouse clicks, but don't do anything). The only function that works is the Inventory Entry function. I have used it to inventory the contents of one locker on Sarah. I have provided this very preliminary application not to solicit input on things that should be included in the final product, but just to let you know someone is looking at this with the P424 specifically in mind. It'll be a free application if I ever finish it as my motivation to do this is to satisfy my requirements. However, my goal is that the application can be modified by Excel-knowledgeable users without having to learn VBA (the application code).
Pete,
One thing I could use is your graphic of the storage lockers on Regina Oceani. I'd like to modify that graphic for the different locker configurations on the various P424s.John
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 4:54 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
There’s an excel sheet on the website that works ok.
On 3/28/08 7:55 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote :
I am looking for software that will help me remember where I have stored stuff in the boat and keep track of how much of each kind of stuff I have left. I've looked around the web with no success. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Lee Y.
#43Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51733/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ >
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John Stevenson
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As others have pointed out, if you don't have a hose on the bottom of the oil sump don't bother to fit one just use the dip stick tube. I use a Tempo vacuum pump. I insert the hose into the dipstick, give about it 7 or 8 pumps and go do something else for 15 minutes. When I come back 4 qts of oil are in the pump. The pump is a bit bulky, but it fits nicely in the lazarette behind my propane locker.
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 5:02 PM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
My W58 has a hose that is already connected to that
fitting.
I put a fitting on the end of the hose for the vac
pump that attaches to that fitting along with a small
1/8″ ball valve. That way I have no vac leaks and I
can bring the vac down pretty low and then open the
valve.— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
The W58 and I believe the W60 have a fitting on the
bottom of the oil pan to
which you can connect a pump. If not, they are
available fairly
inexpensively.Bob
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 2:33 PM, alan P
< ([email][/email])> wrote:If it's anything like a W58 – suck it out of the
dip
stick tube….
Run the engine, get it warm and there ya go!
I have one of the blue can things that you canpump up
to a pretty strong vacumm. Works the best of all
the
devices I have wasted my money on in the past 30
years
to suck oil out of a marine engine.
alan— adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Where do we pump the oil out on a W60?
-Adam Silverstein
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Thanks, Rich.
You're probably right. It is always difficult to assemble threaded pipe in this manner and get all the valves to line up properly. I may not have seated one of the connections properly. My first step will be to carefully re-assemble the manifold before starting to replace any componenets.On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 12:20 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John
My first guess would be that you may not have connected the various parts properly when you assembled the manifold. If you used teflon tape, it's easy to wrap the tape the wrong way. Pipe-joint compound is easier to use. The easiest way to find a leak would be to pressurize the manifold.Try this. Disconnect the feed hoses from the three tanks. You'll probably have to put some kind of plug in the ends to keep water from draining from the tanks. A cork should do. Take a short section of hose and connect two of the hose barbs together. For the third, run the hose up to the deck and into a bucket of water. Siphon some water down the hose and then connect it to the remaining barb. you'll now have a little pressure in your water system. You should be able to observe a water leak wherever the problem exists.
—
Rich Carter
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Rich,
What paint did you use on your pedestal. Mine is badly in need of re-painting, but I'm waiting on the summer drought before starting that project. I thought I would just use Rust-Oleum primer and paint. Did you find something better?John
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 9:40 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Yuk!
My experience with the pedestal has been all bad. Aluminum and stainless don't like each other. If left in contact with each other, electrolytic corrosion marries the two metals, making it near impossible to remove anything. The right way to do this is to put a stainless insert in the aluminum rather than tap a hole. Most manufactures don't do this. If you heat a stuck fastener, you can sometimes remove it. Even if the fastener has a stainless nut on a stainless bolt as shown in your photo, you should expect difficulty removing it. When you reassemble, do the next owner a favor and put some goop on the threads.I paint my pedestal in-place. I've run a bead of caulk around the base to keep water out from under it. If you can keep water out of there with caulking, you should be able to do the same.
—
Rich Carter
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Sorry, meant that for Linus
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 9:25 AM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:AaronI have added a group 31 in a box screwed and glued to the forward end of the old battery box. This seemed like wasted space and made the wiring short jumps. I spoke with Mike yesterday and he said that he has a 31 mounted on the top and outboard of the old boxes. This only brings me to 500 AH so you’re half way there.
Linus
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Aaron,
How did you get that battery box into that space? I can’t get near it, I barely see down in there.On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 9:25 AM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:AaronI have added a group 31 in a box screwed and glued to the forward end of the old battery box. This seemed like wasted space and made the wiring short jumps. I spoke with Mike yesterday and he said that he has a 31 mounted on the top and outboard of the old boxes. This only brings me to 500 AH so you’re half way there.
Linus
<.. snip>
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Aaron,
I think the AH rating in the WM catalogue is also the 20 hr rate used by Trojan, Rolls & others. I couldn't find the AGM batteries in the WM online catalogue, but the flooded 4Ds are rated at 120 ah, compared with the 165 ah rating for the Trojan 4D AGMs. The WM AGMs, which I think are made by Lifeline, might be somewhat larger than the Trojan AGM.
BTW I purchased WM AGMs back in 2000, shortly after I purchased Sarah. Every year for the next 3 years one of the AGMs failed (probably because my alternator had a standard automotive regulator). I guess I could have gone on for years having WM replace one battery each year under the warrantly, but I got tired of periodically living on one battery so I went back to flooded batteries. I went high-end before leaving for Europe and bought a pair of Rolls 4Ds. Under sail I use the generator and battery charger to re-charge the batteries. On the crossing I set the Xantrex charger to the cold battery setting to increase the charge rate. That worked fine, except when I got to Portugal and put Sarah in the Marina de Cascais I forgot about that charger setting. After 5 months on shore power I managed to kill those expensive Rolls. They were still under warranty, but the closest Rolls dealer was in the UK. It would have cost over $300 to ship new batteries to me, and of course they wanted to inspect the failed batteries. So I wrote off the Rolls batteries and purchased a local brand, Tudor. They've worked fine for nearly 3 years. I may decide to upgrade these batteries before heading to the Bahamas in the fall, but I don't think I'll go high-end again, and definitely not AGMs.John
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 12:30 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
OK, so I was reading the new Cruising world, and there’s an article that give an electrical ‘guide’ stating that a ‘moderate’ load would be about 256 AH per day.
Then they later say that you need 1000 AH battery bank for that size load.
Ra currently has 2 West marine 4d AGMs, which according to their site are 200AH ea.
I find them to be somewhat lacking when on the hook. And One of the batteries is definitely dying (confirmed by a marine electrician whom I can’t afford to actually hire 🙂I’m slowly converting to LED Lighting, I don’t really think I use all that much power, however I do like cold beer and am a computer nerd.
In trying to decide if I should replace the west batteries I tried to compare them to others, for example trojan, however they give totally different specs for their batteries: 20hr rate AH =165
I can get the west 4d’s at a deep discount, but even still they are about $300ea And I’m wondering if I’ll be needing more power anyway. IS there a cheaper or better alternative? Can somebody explain to me how to compare the trojan to the west battery using different criteria?
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Alan (unabated is Alan, right),
Since you seem to reference a Genoa headsail to be poled rather than a Spinnaker, I think you are talking about a whisker pole. I think Whisker poles are sized to the foot of the headsail that will be poled to windward. So I guess it would be about 120% of the J. That's why most whisker poles are of the expanding type. If you want to use it on an Asym Spinnaker, I think the sizing is the same as for a Genoa. If you plan to fly a conventional Spinnaker, then the pole should be the length of the J.
I don't carry a pole on Sarah, I just tack down wind, so I haven't seriously looked into the pole dimensions.John
On Thu, Mar 27, 2008 at 9:51 AM, unabated wrote:
If I was to buy the tubing to make my own spinaker pole – What do you think the length should be? Just the “J” measurement?
I use a 120 – 130 headsail.
alan—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Bill,
I don't know that there was a standard shower mixer/head on the P424s. When I bought Sarah the mixer was a Tempo faucet with a shower head and hose attached. I replaced everything with a standard mixer and shower head from Home Depot.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeHead.htm
Pics at the URL above.On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone found a source for a replacement shower
head for the 424?
Mine is falling apart.Bill Emberley
Running Tab
P424 #86Edit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340
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Regards,
John Stevenson
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