Forum Replies Created
I and many cruisers I encountered over the past 15 years use the Markel Jackline policy offered by IMIS (now part of the Gowrie group). I never had to make a claim, but know several cruisers who did make a claim and were satisfied with the response and support they got from IMIS.
The core business for IMIS is cruisers rather than weekend sailors so you should never have to deal with the kind of response you got from Boat/US ( I think they are the broker for standard GEICO insurance policy).
The Jackline policy is geared to cruisers, fully covering an extended ocean voyage by a couple. Also they will cover single-handed passages of up to 24 hours (good for inlet hoping up/down the east coast.
Again I never had to make a claim on my policy, but I was generally satisfied that the policy was good value. My only issue was their boundary for tropical storm coverage was the Florida/Georgia state line. For much of the last 10 years I kept my boat in Jacksonville, 30 nm south of the state line. To have TS coverage I had to add that to my policy.
Good luck with your cruising plans and insurance needs.
All of us had to replace our valves back in the 2000s.. The valves (of which I was aware at that time) that didn’t require replacement were those for horizontal tanks. I assume by now valves are available for horizontal tanks. The valve replacement was a one-time issue (to prevent accidental over filling the tanks). Periodic re-certification is an ongoing requirement. There is a limit on the age at which the tanks can be re-certified, but I don’t remember what that limit is. I suspect that is the issue Idyllours is up against. There have also been issues with fiberglass tanks. It can be difficult to find a re-certification for aluminum and steel tanks. I was able to find a gas grill retailer who could get it done. Others have been able to get it done at scuba shops.
Re: MarineBeam LED flourescent style lamps.
I Put a 12″ (I think) unit over the sink to replace the ThinLight flourescent i put there 10 years earlier. The LED is much brighter than the Thinlight, comes on instantly and has been on about 16 hrs/day for about 3 years. so I can recommend that product.
That looks like the same fixture Pearson used for the berth lights in the aft cabin. I don’t remember what sort of chart light was installed when I bought Sarah. I’ve gone through several halogen types. I finally found a decent LED chart light from MarineBeam. I’ve bought several interior lights from them and they all have been pretty good.
Those of us who have early solid hulls (Sarah is #2) are aware of the significant flexing of the hulls in the long flat sections (forward and aft quarters). Possibly Pearson went to cored hulls late in the run to fix that problem. I guess it is also possible that some owners glassed in coring or plywood to stiffen those sections. That might appear to be a cored hull.
If it weren’t for the fact that this only happens when motor-sailing I would have thought a failed damper plate. Must be related to over driving the prop, even if only a little bit. If the shaft is secure and reasonable well-aligned it might be the prop. Not familiar with that brand, but maybe one blade does not get fully deployed under those conditions. When was the last time it was greased?
I think the electric motors appeals to people with specific needs and expectations, that many of the rest of us do not share.
For exmaple, about 8 years ago I spent of few days in a berth next to a Canadian couple who had converted their Nonsuch (32?, I don’t remember the size) to electric. They did not have a generator and relied on solar and shore power keep their batteries charged. They spent every night in a marina. This was in Oriental, NC and they were on their way down the AICW. They said they averaged about 3.5 kts underway on AICW, about 1/2 the speed at which I would cruise. And they loved it! And they had made it that far from Missassaugua. So it worked for them. It would have driven me nuts!
P.S> Thanks for the alert on the email response issue. I thought the site had gone totally non-functional. I will post a contribution now that I know how it works.Walter,If you are going to hire a yard or a rigger to do the job, the big decision is whether to pull the rig or not. With the rig down the job may go a little faster with less labor required, but of course there is the cost of unstepping and re-stepping the mast. Doing the job with the mast up will save the mast stepping cost, but will add some labor time and maybe multiple trips to the boat by the rigger (assuming he takes two released shrouds or stays at a time to his shop to make up the new ones.Boat yards generally will want to do the job with the rig down, independent riggers tend to do the job with the rig up.Some riggers will make the upper terminals at their shop using a hydraulic swage press and then install the lowers at the boat using Sta-Lok type terminals. That saves multiple trips, and allows the wire to be cut to fit at the boat.I had my main mast rigging replaced in 2008 with the mast down and the mizzen rigging replaced in 2015 with the mast up. If I were to do the main mast again, it would be with the rig up.
Attachments:Walter,A few more thoughts on re-rigging. BTW I haven't seen a copy of my previous post or anyone else's. Anyway …If you turn the job over to a yard they will want the work to fit into their M-F, 8 hours/day work week. An independent rigger will want to get the job done in the minimum of days so he/she can get on to the next job (I assume both the yard and the rigger are working on a fixed price basis). The yard may want the mast and rigging in their shop for several weeks, while they order the wire and terminals and then make up the rigging. The rigger may come to the boat one day to roughly measure the wire required then go away for a week or two until all the parts arrive before returning to do the job in one day. In the meantime you can still use the boat in something other than power boat mode.That said, I did find that without all the rigging in the way these boats make really nice power boats.
Attachments:Bill,It appears Pearson had at least two locations they put the shower sump. On my hull #2 the sump is under the cabin sole in the saloon, on top of the keel. If yours is the same there are two solutions:1. Hire a munchin who can crawl under the sole and get access to the sump; or2. Cut access hatches in the sole (http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeStorage.htm#Under_Cabin_Sole)In either case you probable can't remove it as, at least on Sarah, Pearson glassed the sump to the keel area. This is a terrible location for the sump as it is a long horizontal run from the shower drain. On later 424s I think they put it just forward of the V-Drive. My solution was to bypass the sump entirely and send the pump output directly overboard. That old sump is now used for tool storage.I'm a fan of the L36 website, but this is the first time I saw this page and the mast climbing video.His method is much too complicated for me. If I were able to master the rig and process, and I would still be afraid things would get screwed up with all the disconnects and re-connects and I would be stuck at the top of the mast. So I'll stay with my mast steps.I did buy the ATN rig, and like the L36 guy found it not very workable, especially with the recommended approach of securing the climb line away from the mast. My failure with that device is why I installed steps on my main mast. I also agree with the L36 guy that the bosun chair provided with the ATN rig is really good and I've retained that as my chair. I still have the ascenders somewhere on board, but I never used them since my initial attempts.The best new thing I got from the video is the strop he uses for the safety line. I plan to adopt that as my safety line when using my mast steps. Previously I used a halyard as a safety line, which meant someone else on deck tending that line as I climbed up, then down. If no one was around I just climbed without as safety line. That meant I had only one hand free to work on whatever sent me up the mast in the first place. With the stop in place I could use it to brace myself and have both hands free. Maybe I also wouldn't have the urge for strong drink when back on deck having survived another ascent without safety line.David,If this is the same Bluewater Insurance company that was lighting up the saling forums a few years ago there may be a reason the policy terms and premium sound so good (https://www.ssca.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4713&p=71234&hilit=bluewater#p71234). Hopefully this is a different company that just made an unfortunate choice of name.