Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Bob,
This is closest I think I have to the sail logo, it is off the 424 brochure. The logo on website that I referred to was the one showing the 424 sailplan.
Hope this is what you want, it looks like the logo that was the mainsail when I purchased Sarah.
JohnOn Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 4:52 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi, Tor,No, I'm looking for the 424 logo for the sails.
Thanks!
Bob
On Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 12:41 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Is this what you're looking for (attached)?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
Are you asking about the logo used on the medallion fixed on the boats or the sail insignia?
If the former I believe a group of owners did get new medallions made a number of years ago so someone from that group must have had a graphic or created one. If the later, a local sailmaker might be able to get it for you.
There is also the sailplan logo that a lot of us use. It can be downloaded from my website or Pat probably has a higher resolution image on the P424 website.John
On Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 2:32 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
I think you're pretty safe with the foam tubing. That is what Pearson did for the original wiring in Sarah's mast. It looked like water pipe insulation when I pulled it in 2003. The foam had started to deteriorate, and the mast step was filled with foam the had flaked off the tubing. However it was still insulating the wires from the mast. Pearson didn't use the wire tie trick to keep the bundle off the mast wall.
So it will deteriorate inside the mast, but after another 25 years there should still be plenty of foam left.
I would have replaced the foam tubing in Sarah's mast in kind back in 2003, but I wanted to go with internal halyards. So the mast wiring is now encased in PVC conduit pop-riveted to the wall of the mast.John
On Sat, Apr 26, 2008 at 10:02 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Yeah, I figured the tie wraps would last indefinitely. It's the foam insulation tubes I was wondering about. However, since they're not chafing or exposed to weather or sunlight, maybe they'll go the distance.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Aaron,
I also loved the rant – actually you beat me to it. I've spent the last month trying to install my composting head, but it seems every day something more critical pops up and demands my attention. Two days ago the hard drive on my navigation computer crashed and burned. Spent a couple of days trying to restore it, then got my backup computer computer working , sorta. Yesterday I thought I was ready to move out on the head, when the galley faucet decided it was time to spring a leak – that's my task for today.
One thing I can say though – all these broken parts are very well inventoried.
Now if I can just keep those idiots on the Dell Auction site from outbidding me, I'll have two replacements for my old navigation computers.John
On Sat, Apr 26, 2008 at 8:40 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Aaron,
That is perhaps the funniest thing I've read in a long time – and the picture is beautiful! Both are so prototypical of the plight of boat owners.
Thanks for that!
Bob Pelican # 8
On Fri, Apr 25, 2008 at 11:34 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hey all, I just posted some pix of my not-yet-complete bilge project.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/Bilge-on-Ra
So here's how this little project went,
I wanted a horn at the spreaders. When I went to install it, I had difficulty getting the wiring in the mast because there was a lot of old crap. So I pulled that out.
And re-wired from the binnacle to the spreaders. In doing that I found oil in the bilge, suddenly clearing up the mystery of the disappearing oil.The original Bilge Pump left several inches of water in the bilge, topped with about a gallon of oil.
So I decided to redo the bilge pump setup as per suggestions from the list, but the shower sump was in the way, so I had to relocate that, (as in I had to rent a sawzall) which in turn meant having to relocate the raw water strainer.
When I removed the sump hose, I discovered that the seacock would not shut off. SO I replaced that.
(I did however talk my girlfriend into crawling into the bilge to help clean it. Again thanks to the list I was able to say “see hun, other admirals do it, it would be 'weird' if you refused”)
The best place to put the new sump was occupied by the holding tank discharge. SO I had to relocate that, which meant a couple new hoses.
So I decided to replace ALL of the sanitation hoses. In the course of this, I discovered that the discharge pump went straight to the seacock without a vented loop. Meaning that a small check valve in the pump was all that was keeping the seawater out of the holding tank.
While it was out, I rebuilt the discharge pump, where I discovered that the check valve didn't in fact close all the way, which suddenly explained why the holding tank was full even if we didn't use it for a week.
While I had nearly every friggin hose and wire in the bilge exposed I needed to climb into all of the aft lazzarettes, and since I had all that crap out of the boat I did a deep spring cleaning to inventory the boat and add everything into John's excel spreadsheet.
But then it was dark, and supposed to rain and so I had to put it all back, and now I have to take it back out to inventory it so damned you John and your cool excel spreadsheet!!!!
Or and my boat is a friggin' deathtrap.
I still don't have the raw water pump or the sump reinstalled or even found the oil leak yet.
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
Yes I think there may be several different version of the anchor well out, not counting thoe that have been modified by owners. I had the same problem with the backing plate on the bulkhead aft of the anchor well and chain locker, and did the same thing – turned the plate sideways and mounted it inside the chain locker. There's no backing plate in the anchor well, just fender washers. I got my design from Jack and he got his from Hal Sutphen, but I never inquired about how they fitted a backing plate.John
On Sat, Apr 26, 2008 at 8:08 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Come to think of it, Alan, maybe it's “anchor well,” not “anchor locker.” Anyway, it's definitely Mount Gay, not
Barbancourt (which I believe is Haitian, not Barbadian).Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Ooooh!
know the pain
backs are a bitchOn Sat, Apr 19, 2008 at 8:22 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John and Thor:
Thanks for the info on the lag bolts. I am glad I asked before I started taking parts off the beam. I will take a pair of vise grips to the remaining studs and hope they back out.
I will try my air hammer on the step tomorrow and hope I can get it to start to move.
Well, after running up and down the companionway steps into the salon over a few thousand times the past year ( The ones to the aft cabin are out of use because of engine work), what I was afraid of finally happened this afternoon. I got used to spinning around pretty quick and dropping down the stairs. Well this time I slipped ( I was wearing socks, as I had been all winter) and fell backwards into the hole. Luckily my elbows caught the sides and my back hit the oppiste side and I didn't fall all the way down. Back is pretty banged up but my diet of Advil and Tylenol is helping. I guess no more running on deck in socks!!!
Paul
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Paul,
I don't really know how the mizzen step is attached, but I would have assume with lag screws. There is really no reason to thru-bolt the step, unless you want to use it to pick up the boat when the step seizes to the mast:).On Sat, Apr 19, 2008 at 3:55 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
When My mizzen mast was removed, the my mast step remained in the mast when the bolts sheared.
Do you access the bolts by removing the wooden plate attached to the laminated wood beam just above the engine. If so, I guess I can assume those green slot screws are going to break as soon as I put some force on them!!!
Also, any hints on removing the mast step from the mast would be appreciated. I having been dosing it with PB Blaster, but I am not sure of the best way to get some leverage on it. The only thing I can think of is either a slide hammer or come-along attached to a couple L bolts slipped into the bolts holes.
Thanks,
PaulBoundless #28
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
You do lose a little of the pump's capacity because it is pushing a greater head. Not sure if you could measure the difference though. Given the depth of our bilges, the bilge pumps on our boats need to be fairly powerful just to get the bilge water above the waterline.
On Thu, Apr 17, 2008 at 1:44 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I was guestimating from memory, the thru-hulls are at the bottom of the vertical part of the transom, so you’re correct they are about 18″ off the water.
I’m still thinking of adding vented loops though, just to meet current abyc code. There’s no downside to that (other than cost) is there?
–
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I knew I'd seen a 1-1/8″ loop, it just took a little while to find it.
http://www.thebosworthco.biz/accessory.php?ID=VL-30-1-1/8&S=879
It's a little pricey. I think if you can find one of those stepped vented loops that Jack mentioned they are likely much cheaper, however they may not have a 1-1/8 step on the hose barb.John
On Thu, Apr 17, 2008 at 9:30 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Aaron
10″ sounds low. I'm pretty sure that mine exit much higher than that, but you have me thinking. I'm pretty sure that the transom is at least a foot above the water line, so the only way I think you could have one that low would for it to be mounted below the transom. I'm pretty sure mine are at least 2 feet above the water line and no more than 2 feet offcenter.I've observed that when under power, the stern wave climbs up the transom at least a foot or so as the boat approaches hull speed. If I had a through-hull that low on the transom, it would be under water. Having a pump exit below the water line not only invites flooding, but also restricts the capacity of the pump. This is not good.
If the through-hulls exit near the centerline of the boat and if they are up a couple of feet or so, they would only be submerged for a very short period of time if you got hit with a wave. I've run my bilge hoses up high in the locker in a loop. This isn't vented and doesn't need to be as long as the through-hull isn't submerged for long periods of time. From your description, it sounds like yours are lower. All the 424's are different, but it would be odd for Pearson to have done something so dangerous; maybe a PO screwed up.
I've seen vented loops that are made with stepped barbs on them. You cut the thing off at the hose size you need.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Paul,
When I purchased Sarah one of the first things I did was replace the wire/rope halyards with all rope with the origina sheaves. I went with 9/16″ Sta Set X thinking it would fit the sheaves. It did, but the eye splice was too large to go onto the sheave and I couldn't get a full hoist on the main. I lived with it (used a Cunnigham to tension the luff) until I swapped out the sheaves and went to 1/2″ and 7/16″.
So I can say that 1/2″ would fit easily on the original sheaves, but the eye splice may not. A lot depends how clean and tapered a splice you put on the halyard and how full the hoist is for your main. If main hoists below the black band you shouldn't have any trouble, however since I never tried 1/2″ on the old sheaves I can say for sure.
FWIW, I prefer the 7/16″ Sta Set X to the 1/2″. Sta Set X is very stiff rope. Even after 5 years my 1/2' halyards are fairly stiff. 7/16″ is more flexible and fits the halyard cleats better.John
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 11:10 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone tried using 1/2″ Sta-Set X in the original wire/rope sheaves. I may be able to get some 1/2″ for less than 7/16″ It looks like it should fit, but I thought I would check.
Thanks,
Paul #28
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
svTopaz(gotta name?)
My Northern Lights 4.5kw genset is in the aft lazarette on a purpose built platform. The installation was done by the PO and like Paul's PO he had to cut out the aft portion of the bench trim (around the hinges) to fit the genset into the hatch opening. Then the trim was re=glassed in place. This provides excellent access for oil changes, but nearly impossible access to the raw water pump and the heat exchanger. Small thin people can work themselves around behind it, but I am neither. I normally have to hire one of those small, thin people for anything other than oil changes and filter changes.
The other problem with this genset installation is that it makes it very difficult to get access to the rudder post stuffing box. Once again small, thin people are necessary and even they find it difficult.The installation works, but with the new, more compact gensets the installation shouldn't require the hatch cutting and access should be better. 4.5kw is way overkill for what I need onboard AC power. I don't know how the NL genset compares in size to your Westerbecke 3kw model. If I were starting from scratch I'd probably use the same space, but with a small genset.
John
On Sun, Apr 13, 2008 at 5:01 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I have an Apollo 4K installed in the Port side cockpit locker. towards the aft end, at an angle to match the curve of the hull. This of course makes working on the raw water pump that is close to the hull of real pleasure. The PO needed to cut out some of the locker hatch trim to get it down there. It is installed on a very nice platform. It is fed from a separate portable plastic fuel tank. The main need for my genset is to run the 110v Seafrost BF-3 refrigerator system.
Paul
Boundless #28
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Tor.
I appreciate any feed back. Be sure to download just before testing as I will likely have put up new versions in the next few days.On Thu, Apr 10, 2008 at 8:20 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,Will be tied up 'til next week, but then I very much looking forward to playing with this.
Thanks again,
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus,
Fortunately or unfortunately I have never touched Vista so I don't know how the security works (or doesn't work). If you are trying to load the Layout A workbook, discard it. There seems to be a persistent problem in that file. If you are trying the Layout B or Sarah inventory workbook, I at least know I can download it and it works under XP and Office 2003.
Maybe saving it under Vista will enable the macros, give it a try. I'll look into the compatibility issues between office 2003 and 2007/Vista.Sorry this wasn't a clean load. If that doesn't work I'll see if can borrow a friends Vista machine and try the workbook in that environment myself.
On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 7:12 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:JohnI am using Vista and 2007 Office. There is no tools that I see, there is a “trust center”. I will try to adjust the settings there. I enabled macros and didn't get the security notice. When the file opens it is read only and in compatibility mode. Should I try saving it in excel and see if it updates the formulas?
Linus
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus,
Also if you go to the Excel menu Tools/Macro/Security, what security level do you have set?On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 5:42 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Linus,
Which file are you working with?On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 3:18 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:JohnI have not been able to get the file past my security. No matter what I do macros are disabled. I have to admit that I thought we would have to use MS Access in order to be able to do searches.
Thanks for all the hard work
Linus
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus,
Which file are you working with?On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 3:18 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:JohnI have not been able to get the file past my security. No matter what I do macros are disabled. I have to admit that I thought we would have to use MS Access in order to be able to do searches.
Thanks for all the hard work
Linus
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum