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This is what I planned to use if I ever get to it. They have a cocoa color that might look good. I already have a black stripe between the toe-rail and rub-rails so I might go with black.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/seafit–premium-striping-tape-3-4–P000224974
Rich
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The eyebrows have been a continual source of leaks for me over the years. I probably don’t have to mention how difficult it can be to locate the source of a leak. If not caught in time, the leak damages the interior woodwork. I think Pearson used silicon sealant to bed the darn thing which is damaged by 2-part teak cleaner. I’ve fixed leaks I found by pulling the fastener and bedding replacing after putting a dab of poly-sulfide on the threads. This seems to work. I’ve considered removing the thing but its on the list of things that aren’t quite broken and won’t get addressed until I retire in a couple of years. I plan to remove the thing and replace it with a brown stripe along the coach lip, probably using some kind of tape.
I’d be hesitant to replace the grab rails with steel. IMHO, the boat just wouldn’t look right.
Rich
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Rodd
I’ve never had an issue with the rudder packing or post. One of these days I expect to be in there replacing the packing. I’ll be watching the thread.Hope all is well with you.
Rich—– Original Message —–
I suppose there is more than one way to skin a cat. I pulled the bottom off the cradle so the tank would lower a hair and slide forward under the beam. After removal, I put the cradle back together and ordered a new tank slightly shorter than the original. I have a sloop. The sloop has the same beam across the bottom of the cockpit sole. The sloop is precisely the same as a ketch but the original owner elected to omit the mizzen mast. The hull has tabs glassed in for mizzen shrouds. I could convert to a ketch by dropping in a mizzen stick. Rich
Evan
The cutter and sloop versions have a weak chainplate attachment to the transom. The entire transom can and will get pushed in and the bolts will pull out unless you reinforce the attachment. I tried a couple of backing plate fixes but I found that I needed something more substantial. The repair is a bit involved but can be done by anyone who has access to a drill-press. This fixed the problem for me.http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/TransomChainPlate/
Rich
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Evan
I can’t comment on the running backs because I have a sloop, but I had an issue with the backstay. Did you reinforce the chainplate?Rich
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I use seven jack-stands. One under the bow and three along each side. The two aft stands need to be long, extending about 6′ to the hull. The other 4 extend about 5′ to the hull. Chains link between pairs of course. I put wood pads under the feet.
I block the keel under the forward half of the keel. I also block the rudder skeg.
Rich
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Bob,
Interesting solution, but if I don’t pay top price for marine quality, I’m not going to be satisfied (what am I saying, someone please whack me on the back of the head).The spotlights I mounted were clear under the spreaders too, but the headsail still pushed them back when tacking. If your headsail is smaller than your foretriangle you may not have this problem. The fix was pretty simple, just a short section of L-bracket mounted under the lamp using the same faster that was used to hold the lamp. This prevents the lamp from swiveling back.
Rich
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I got sick and tired of the stuff. I attached a cloth flap to the top of the cushions with snaps.
There’s a bug in the website builder I used to create these pages. The pictures got scrambled in position but you can see the snaps. One of these days I’ll rebuild the website.
http://www.richardcarter.net/Cabin.htmlRich
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I replaced mine with a pair of marine LED deck-lights, not spreader lights. They draw .4A. They are nowhere near as bright as what you show but they are adequate and don’t even deflect the ammeter when they are on. At $56ea, they are affordable and much less expensive than the LED spreader lamps. I have no idea why the spreader lights are so much more expensive.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312533&id=1845652They swivel, which is not a feature for a spreader light. The headsail can press against the light when tacking. This will push the lamp back on its swivel, illuminating the cockpit and not the foredeck. I cut a small piece of aluminum angle bracket and attached it to the mounting base. This holds the lamp from swiveling.
The original deck lamps from Pearson were junk. They ate bulbs and sucked down battery power when they worked.
Rich
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Bob
Sloops prior to hull 205 were tall ketches (TM) without the mizzen. After 205, they were cutters without a same as a cuter without the inner forestay.Model I J P E
Pearson 422 SLP 18+ 47.25 15.75 40.00 14.50
Pearson 422 Cutter 18+ 47.25 18.17 40.00 14.50
Pearson 422 Ketch 47.25 15.75 40.00 14.50
Pearson 422 SLP 1-17 47.25 18.17 40.00 14.50Pearson 424 Cutter 47.25 18.16 41.00 14.50
Pearson 424 Ketch 44.08 15.75 38.00 14.50
Pearson 424 Ketch TM 47.25 15.75 41.00 14.50
Pearson 424 SLP 1-204 47.25 15.75 41.00 14.50
Pearson 424 SLP 205+ 47.25 18.16 41.00 14.50Rich
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Sad to see. My boat was damaged in a similar fashion when she was almost new. I bought her after she was salvaged. At that time, the blue-book value of the boat made it worth repairing. Now, I’m not sure it’s feasible. Someone might cut her up and sell the parts. She has a recent engine.
Rich
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Tor,
I think Pearson built the earlier sloops as ketches and let the owner decide if they wanted a ketch or sloop at the time of the sale. There is basically no difference between the boats except the extra stick. My winches are probably in the same position as yours. I can’t reach them from the wheel. I should move them. You have no issue with the sheets running clear to the jib car?Having the winches forward on the combing works when you have crew. The helmsman can stand on either side of the wheel with no interference while the crew sits forward and trims. Shorthanded however it’s awkward.
Please let us know if your backstay tensioner works.
Rich
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I have a sloop. The sloop is identical to the tall ketch except she lacks the mizzen. The mast is in the same position and I have the hull attachments for the ketch stays. It would be a simple matter to add the mizzen if I chose to do so.
The sloop balances very well and sails nicely. The backstay adjuster allows me to tighten the forestay and pull the belly out of the headsail. She tacks within 90degrees over the bottom. It also lets me put in a binimi that covers the whole cockpit. Access forward around the dodger is not hindered by the extra stays. The sloop looks a bit odd without the mizzen however. I don’t think anyone would argue that the ketch looks better. I’ve never sailed the ketch configuration but I asked my rigger about converting several years ago. He told me that the mizzen rig is too small in the 424 to be effective. I wouldn’t want to give up the backstay tensioner anyway so it’s not really under serious consideration.
The 424 was also offered in a cutter configuration. Here the mainmast was set back a few feet. The boom extends a bit over the cockpit.
Even if you buy a sloop or cutter, the transom built by Pearson is not strong enough for the rig. Reinforcing the transom is not difficult or expensive. See richardcarter.net and navigate to boat projects to see what I did.
Good luck with your purchase and please keep us informed.
Regards
Rich
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