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Aaron
10″ sounds low. I’m pretty sure that mine exit much higher than that, but you have me thinking. I’m pretty sure that the transom is at least a foot above the water line, so the only way I think you could have one that low would for it to be mounted below the transom. I’m pretty sure mine are at least 2 feet above the water line and no more than 2 feet offcenter.I’ve observed that when under power, the stern wave climbs up the transom at least a foot or so as the boat approaches hull speed. If I had a through-hull that low on the transom, it would be under water. Having a pump exit below the water line not only invites flooding, but also restricts the capacity of the pump. This is not good.
If the through-hulls exit near the centerline of the boat and if they are up a couple of feet or so, they would only be submerged for a very short period of time if you got hit with a wave. I’ve run my bilge hoses up high in the locker in a loop. This isn’t vented and doesn’t need to be as long as the through-hull isn’t submerged for long periods of time. From your description, it sounds like yours are lower. All the 424’s are different, but it would be odd for Pearson to have done something so dangerous; maybe a PO screwed up.
I’ve seen vented loops that are made with stepped barbs on them. You cut the thing off at the hose size you need.
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Rich Carter
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Leaving the engine for two years without turning it over is a very bad idea, but the W60 is a robust engine. I wouldn’t be surprised if it doesn’t just startup. Having spent many hours praying over my old engine, I have some suggestions that might make that first startup a little easier.
Don’t change the fuel filters yet. The W60 is a bear to bleed and you don’t want to touch the fuel system until you know that the engine runs. Once you’ve started the engine and know it runs OK, you can address the filters.
Change the oil and filter.
You might consider pulling the glow plugs first. With the glow-plugs out, it will be very easy to crank the engine. It won’t start, but moving the pistons and circulating some oil will help. With the glow-plugs out, you can test them to make sure they are OK before reinstalling them. Offhand, I can’t remember if you can pull all four without moving the high-pressure fuel lines. If you can’t pull all four, pull what you can and inspect and test them. If you connect one to a 12V battery, it should get hot.
After turning the engine over and reinstalling the glow plugs, put the throttle all the way up, preheat the engine for 30 seconds, and crank the engine. It should start within 10 seconds. Don’t worry about the engine racing. There’s a governor.
If all goes well, your engine will start and you’ll be in business. If the fuel has set in the tank for two years, you probably have contamination in there, water and probably slime. If you see what looks like coffee grounds collecting in the bottom of your fuel filter, you have slime growing in the tank. There are commercial companies that clean tanks.
Don’t forget to check the transmission fluid and V-drive lube oil. Make sure the V-drive lube isn’t milky in color. You should probably change both.
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Rich Carter
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Eric
You’re flogging a dead horse there. The original traveler that Pearson used was a piece of junk. If you can afford a boat unit, you might consider replacing it as long as you are planing to work on it.—
Rich Carter
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Allan
If it is only used for starting the engine, then all you need is a large
automobile battery. I went down to my local discount outlet and bought the
largest automobile starter battery they have. In truth, a lawn-mower
battery would start my Yanmar, but there’s no need to get anything that
small. My old W-60 would need to crank for as long as 30 seconds before
starting, so it needed a larger battery. I assume your W-58 is similar. A
deep cycle battery isn’t usually designed to function well as a starter
battery, so they aren’t always the best choice in those applications.Rich
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Solid
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Rich Carter
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The teak trim along the coach top is a possible point for leaks. Pearson used silicone sealant for bedding the thing. Teak cleaners and age can cause the sealant to leak. There is no harm if water gets under the trim, but having it get through the screw holes and into the cabin is another story. I suggest removing the screws and rebedding them with proper caulking. If you do a few at a time, it is no big deal. There is no need to remove the trim. I’ve done this as leaks developed, but I’ve decided to rebed them all this summer to be sure that I get them all.
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Rich Carter
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“As far as the manual bilge pump, do you guys have the suction secured with a strainer attached to the board, or just loose in the bilge somewhere?”
The boat came with a manual pump mounted in the cockpit. From there a hose ran under the fuel tank and under the engine into the bilge. There was no strainer on the end. The pump never worked well. I finally removed it and replaced with a new pump with a built in handle. Having the handle built in is nice. In an emergency, no hunting for a handle.
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=113146FWhen I pulled the old pump out, I had a chance to give it a good look over. There were small pieces of wood stuck in there. The thing never had a chance to work right.
Rich
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Let me get this straight, your girlfried crawled into your stinky bilge and
cleaned it out!! I need to meet her. You meeting up with us at Three Mile
Harbor?Whatever you do, don’t give her up. How did you find her, with an ad like
this?“Wanted, woman who is willing to climb into the darkest, worst smelling hole
on the east coast and chip out smelly chunks of plastic, then clean the
inside out with chlorox and simple-green. Please send photos and
references”Rich
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Good luck. TAD can be a great source for parts, but watch them. The guy who runs the place can be hard to deal with.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Are you sure it is oil and not fuel? Take a good look around the bottom of your tank cradle. There may be fuel weeping around your engine pan and into the bilge. It could also be one of the fuel lines, possibly the fill or return, but probably not the supply.
I put a dab of bleach in the bilge. This keeps critters from growing down there. I use the manual bilge pump to drain the bilge. This tests the thing regularly and does a reasonable job of pumping it out.
I too would like to fill it with something, but concrete sounds extreme. Still thinking about it though. I tried to buy some special concrete that has plastic aggregate instead of stone. The stuff even floats. The seller wouldn’t ship a small quantity.
Rich
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Paul,
Once the water is hot, yes, having the larger tank is great. I always try to conserve water, but I find that 6 gal is barely enough to do dishes. My old W60 used to make hot water about as fast as you could use it. After about 30min, the water tank would be hot. Just keep the engine idling from then on, and the water would stay hot. When I switched to the Yanmar, I find that the engine takes a lot longer to warm up if it isn’t under load. I never really took accurate notes, but I don’t think it even reaches 190deg at idle; maybe 160. I never ran the new engine with the old water heater, so I can’t compare how water heating times compare.If you are in a slip, I would expect the extra hot water capacity to come in very handy. Since you are under little pressure to conserve water, having 11gal available for showers and dishes would be great. Electric heating elements take longer to heat water than a hot engine, so you won’t be able to assume that the electric heater will keep up with demand.
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Rich Carter
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I have the aft cabin model. This is the layout with two companionways. My original Raritan water heater was under the mattress in the center of three lockers. I removed that heater and installed an 11gal Force-10 in the same space.
I’ll look for pictures and notes.
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Rich Carter
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I installed an 11gal Force-10 11gal water heater under the aft bunk in the same location that the Raritan heater was installed. I had to remove a small piece of the bunk shelf to slide the unit in, then replace it once the heater was in place. I also had to cut a hole in the short bulkhead under the bunk to allow access to the water fittings. I relocated the water manifold to some otherwise unused space under one of the bunk drawers. It is a very close fit.
As I remember, I found the best price for the unit at Port Marine Supply.
http://www.postmarine.com/details.asp?item=41100—
Rich Carter
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Alan
I replaced mine last year with a 11gal unit. It fit in the same space under the aft bunk. I sent out notes and photos of the installation if you missed them. Installation wasn’t straightforward.—
Rich Carter
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As I recall, Transatlantic Diesels had a source for these things. The one issue being that the pulley needs to have a couple of holes drilled to mate with the thing. If their supply has dried-up, There are some spares kicking around in spare parts bins of various owners who still have the engine.
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Rich Carter
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