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John
That’s one heck of a price to have this done. I checked with a local spar manufacturer and they quoted me more than that for just one plate!As I’m sure you’ve considered, the plate pulls up when under load. If the hole in the bulkhead is slightly low, I don’t see an issue with drilling it out. If the bulkhead hole is slightly high however, it won’t take-up any load when the rig is tensioned. In the second case, I might drag the hole in the chainplate.
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Rich Carter
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Linus
The engine runs at 190 deg, so I would expect the engine room to get that hot. You can keep it cooler by running the blower, but when you shut the engine down and blower too, I would assume the engine room would heat up.—
Rich Carter
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Linus
When I bought exhaust hose, it came in two types, stiff and extra stiff. I paid extra for the stiff hose (series 252) because I had to bend it. I wouldn’t screw around with exhaust hose to save a couple of bucks.. Your life may depend on it.http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/My_Homepage_Files/Page21.html
Rich
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Cool! If this works out, you will have my eternal gratitude. I’ll give it a try.
How do you use it to caulk your chainplates? There’s a small cover plate over mine, but it isn’t much to brag about. I’ve taken to covering the whole mess with 4200 or similar and replacing it every couple of years.
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Rich Carter
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Rod
I have no ‘L’ connections in my deck drains, never had.I didn’t bother with backing plates. If I had installed valves, I would
probably have put them in.Rich
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There was a discussion about this a few years back. Someone (I can’t remember who) lost his boat because it ran up on a beach and rubbed against the bottom. As I remember it, a plastic through-hull failed from the abrasion. The boat was recovered and the owner replaced the through-hulls with bronze. Is the owner still a member of our list? If so, maybe he could comment.
I replaced the last of my deck-drain through-hulls last season. I used the same white plastic Pearson used, with no seacock. I had other expensive projects on hand and couldn’t justify spending another boat unit on valves and fittings. IMHO, I think it would be an odd set of circumstances that would cause the seacock or hose to fail that wouldn’t result in other more serious damage.
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Rich Carter
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Yes, use the dipstick tube. I use one of those drill pumps. I slip a hose over the dipstick tube and clamp it. Then run the electric drill with the business end in an empty plastic jug. I have to be very careful because if something slips off, oil can get all over the place. The oil must be warm or it won’t pump out. Some folks run a small hose down the dipstick tube, but I’ve had better success just connecting to the top of the tube.
For the W60, I used to slip a plastic ziplock bag over the oil filter, then remove it. My Yanmar engine has the oil filter mounted on the side of the engine. There’s no way to avoid making a mess when you remove it.
I bought one of those blue pump cans, but I lost a gasket for it. In theory, it should work well too. One of these days I’ll get a replacement gasket.
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Rich Carter
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John
My first guess would be that you may not have connected the various parts properly when you assembled the manifold. If you used teflon tape, it’s easy to wrap the tape the wrong way. Pipe-joint compound is easier to use. The easiest way to find a leak would be to pressurize the manifold.Try this. Disconnect the feed hoses from the three tanks. You’ll probably have to put some kind of plug in the ends to keep water from draining from the tanks. A cork should do. Take a short section of hose and connect two of the hose barbs together. For the third, run the hose up to the deck and into a bucket of water. Siphon some water down the hose and then connect it to the remaining barb. you’ll now have a little pressure in your water system. You should be able to observe a water leak wherever the problem exists.
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Rich Carter
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I just put a coat of 1-part polyurithane over what is there. It lasts a few years.
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Rich Carter
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Yuk!
My experience with the pedestal has been all bad. Aluminum and stainless don’t like each other. If left in contact with each other, electrolytic corrosion marries the two metals, making it near impossible to remove anything. The right way to do this is to put a stainless insert in the aluminum rather than tap a hole. Most manufactures don’t do this. If you heat a stuck fastener, you can sometimes remove it. Even if the fastener has a stainless nut on a stainless bolt as shown in your photo, you should expect difficulty removing it. When you reassemble, do the next owner a favor and put some goop on the threads.I paint my pedestal in-place. I’ve run a bead of caulk around the base to keep water out from under it. If you can keep water out of there with caulking, you should be able to do the same.
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Rich Carter
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Aaron
I’ve been using cheap golf-cart batteries purchased at Sams Club. I get good service with them. If they fail, I just run down and buy another pair. Maybe they aren’t as good as Trojan or Rolls, but I don’t cry about them when they die. I think they run about $70 each. I get between 3 and 5 years on a pair. I’ve heard others in our group get similar life out of them.Right after I bought 4 replacement golf-cart batteries, I was lucky enough to find date expired but otherwise brand new AGM batteries at a Ham Radio flea market. They are about 100AH at 12v. I bought four of them for $30 ea. This is a rare find. Unfortunately, I can’t fit all four of them in my battery box, so I have two golf-cart batteries and two AGM batteries. I have the other two golf-cart batteries and AGM batteries as spares. As I said in my last message, mixing them is not ideal, but unless I take a sawsall to my battery box, I’m stuck with that configuration.
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Rich Carter
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John,
I have one flooded bank and one AGM bank. I’ve had no trouble with either for the past three years. I don’t run them together however. The AGM charge requirements are very similar to flooded batteries, so having a regulator set for between 13.8v and 14.4v shouldn’t hurt the AGM batteries. This is not the case with gel-cell batteries. I’m curious why your experience is different. If you figure it out, please let us know. I have a spare set of batteries sitting in my garage on a trickle charger.As I’ve learned by doing a web search, you can’t combine AGM with flooded batteries . The internal resistance of an AGM battery is much lower than a flooded battery, so it may overcharge when combined with flooded batteries during the charge cycle, and my over discharge during the discharge cycle.
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Rich Carter
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Alan
I have a policy of only discharging only one bank in a day. I keep a bank available for emergencies. It is rare that have to switch banks before I get a chance to recharge. If I need 100AH/day, I need two banks with that capacity.As I’m sure you know, it is bad for a battery to completely discharge. If you want your batteries to last a few years, you can’t discharge them completely. I switch battery banks when the voltmeter shows a 12.0 volt reading under a moderate load (approx 5A). This is about 50% discharged. It is also very difficult to bring a battery up to 100% charge. Even the smart regulators drop off after a timed period. If you get your batteries up to 90% charge, you’re doing well. This means that I’m only getting 40% of the rated capacity out of the battery bank. If the bank is rated at 220AH, I can only get about 88AH out of it. That’s close to what I use on a daily basis without refrigeration. The largest consumer is lighting, but the television, radio, and electronics take their share.
On a related subject, I went on a cruise last month with my daughter. It’s the first time I went on something that large. I really enjoyed it. I particularly enjoyed watching the crew maneuver the 950 foot ship in and out of the slip without tugs. We shared a dinner table with a guy who works for a light bulb company. He’s an engineer who is working on LED lighting. I had a chance to discuss what is going on in the industry and got a lot of good information. He said that one of the challenges he has is finding a way to dim the LED bulbs. They have a new replacement bulb that sets different light levels by quickly toggling the on/off switch. Another challenge is finding a way to make a point light source. He said that current LED technology is about on par with the efficiency of fluorescent lighting. This surprised me since I was always under the impression that LEDs were more efficient. I didn’t get a chance to discuss where the power was lost, but I suspect that
it is
in the current regulation circuitry. Bulb life is drastically shortened if too much current is consumed. In an installation such as a boat where the 12v source varies by so much, it is difficult to get an efficient regulation circuit. This is interesting, since I’ve been evaluating the value in replacing some of my fixtures with LED lamps. It may be more practical to replace at least the overhead lamps with fluorescent.—
Rich Carter
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I think it means that you place it somewhere between the raw water pump and the anti-siphon loop; after the heat exchanger sounds fine. Otherwise any leak in your shaft seal will fill your engine exhaust and may backup into your engine. On my engine, the exhaust riser is above the waterline so it would be odd for water to backup in there, but your installation may be different.
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Rich Carter
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