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Hi Thatcher,
Wavemaker’s facelift sounds awesome! But do you have ice? (just kidding)
My 9′ inflatable flies, too, with 8 HP and me alone, and rows OK for an
inflatable. It’s practical, too, for loading, snorkeling, etc.. This I know.
But a little sailboat is another kind of fun, and a row boat you can put
your back into just feels good sometimes. I guess I’ll see what turns up.All is well enough, thanks. Island life agrees with me.
Tor
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Paul,
All single screw boats “walk” or pull the stern to one side in reverse.
Left-handed (LH) props walk to starboard, right-handed (RH) props walk to
port. The trick is to know how to use that physical fact to your advantage.
Since our props are left-handed, when you need to spin your boat around
under power in tight quarters, always spin her counter-clockwise, i.e., turn
the wheel hard over (clockwise) to port. Give the throttle a sharp burst of
power in forward, throttle back to idle for a moment, and then give her a
burst of power in reverse without turning the helm – leave that locked over
to port. Continue to alternate between blasts in forward and blasts in
reverse, always with a moment of idle neutral in between, always keeping the
helm hard to port. The boat – most boats – will then spin in her own length.
Our 424’s respond rather sluggishly to the forward bursts compared to most
boats because the propeller is so far forward of the rudder that the “kick”
is much reduced.This only works turning to port with a LH prop. If you try to spin a LH-prop
boat to starboard, the reverse gear walking will work against you, slowing
or even negating the turn.Similarly, it is easier to dock a LH-prop boat starboard side to the pier,
since when you shift into reverse at the last moment to stop the forward
motion the boat’s stern will pull in to the pier rather than away from it.Practice may not make perfect, but it will make better.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Who you callin’ old and forgetful?
And who are you, anyway?
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Your efforts are duly noted and appreciated, Ken. I expect few of us know
how to search the databases. (Some of us didn’t even know we had searchable
databases.) Most of us just blather on. So, what do you want to know?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I am among the less mechanically inclined members of this group. I don’t
know whether an auto mechanic could rebuild a marine transmission. The guy
who rebuilt mine when I first got Silverheels and repowered her does nothing
but marine. My guess is an expert is better than a generalist in this case –
certainly there are differences between boat and car trannies – but that’s
only my guess.Hopefully one of the smart guys here will answer your question more
authoritatively.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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All the thru-hulls on my boat were and are accessible on the inside, albeit
some more conveniently than others.Tor
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I don’t recall where my toilet discharge was originally, but it’s someplace
else now.🙂
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I don’t recall where my toilet discharge was originally, but it’s someplace
else now.🙂
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My 424 had been sitting on the hard for many months, but not years, before I
bought her.Tor
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My 424 had been sitting on the hard for many months, but not years, before I
bought her.Tor
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Ken,
I shared this summary of my War on Thru-Hulls with the group 6 years ago.
Removing and sealing up half the thru-hulls was only half the battle. The
other half was re-plumbing to share the remaining fittings among a multitude
of users:Silver Heels’ Thru-Hull Assignment List, 12/2007
================================================Below-Waterline T-hull, Starboard Side #1
Intake to sea chest, which feeds the following:
– galley sink
– watermaker
– toilet
– anchor/foredeck wash-down
– bilge sump wash-down hoseBelow-Waterline T-hull, Starboard Side #2
– engine raw water intakeBelow-Waterline T-hull, Port Side #1
– galley sink drainBelow-Waterline T-hull, Port Side #2
– holding tank overboard pump discharge
– toilet dischargeAbove-Waterline T-hull, Starboard Side #1
– midship side deck scupper
– electric bilge pump discharge
– shower sump discharge
– watermaker discharge
– head sink drainAbove-Waterline T-hull, Starboard Side #2
– aft side deck scupper
– starboard cockpit drainAbove-Waterline T-hull, Port Side #1
– midship side deck scupperAbove-Waterline T-hull, Port Side #2
– aft side deck scupper
– port cockpit drainAbove-Waterline T-hull, Transom #1
– manual bilge pump dischargeAbove-Waterline T-hull, Transom #2
– engine exhaustThere is also a small hole in the transom, well above the waterline, for the
propane locker drain.One issue I encountered on my boat was that many of the “above the
waterline” thru-hulls were, in fact, at or slightly below the present,
raised waterline. So where I needed to keep the fitting, I removed and
re-installed it a little higher up, sealing the original hole. I opted to
get rid of the forward cabin sink altogether, which used to drain through
its own below-waterline seacock. The depth sounder transducer did not need
to be thru-hull, and I scrapped the speed log wheel, which didn’t work
anyway, and sealed the hole.Even with all this, I still have 10 holes in my hull, albeit only 4 of them
below the waterline. There is room for improvement, for further thru-hull
reductions, which I may get to in the future. For example, the manual bilge
pump could share some other thru-hull exit.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Paul,
Welcome back to the Romper Room.
My 424 had been sitting on the hard for unknown months when I bought her.
One of the very first things I did, just before (mostly) motoring her 300
miles up the ICW to another boat yard, was to remove and replace that foggy
portlight in the cockpit sole so I could see through it, and pull the
30-year-old fuel sight gauge and replace it with a new one, readily
available from any marine store for $10 or $15. While those things were out,
I secured a hose to a long stick with wire ties, gently lowered the end
through the sight gauge hole to the tank’s deepest point, which is at the
forward end of the tank, and used a hand pump to suck out about a gallon or
so of fuel from there. To my delight it came up clean and free of water, so
I figured (correctly, as it turned out) that it was safe to use. If it had
come up ugly, I would probably have pumped out more until it showed clear,
or if it looked too far gone, arranged for polishing.Of course, I had the advantage of a boat on the hard for a long time. Any
water and most dirt in the fuel tank would long ago have settled to the
deepest part of the tank. But even if your boat has been sitting in a calm
slip for a week, I believe you’d find most if not all of the gunk settled to
the bottom.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Ken,
The manifold I just showed you was the final design after 2 failures. The
first was an attempt to convert the original shower sump box that Pearson
made, into a sea chest. That’s what you read about. I had the devil of a
time getting the lid watertight and also had concerns about air bubbles. The
manifold I ultimately came up with was simpler and more functional. It has
worked without a hitch ever since.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thatcher,
John just explained perfectly the difference between a sea chest and a
seawater manifold. Since Silverheels has no big raw water consumers besides
the engine, which has its own, dedicated thru-hull and strainer, I didn’t
really need a sea chest. The manifold easily services this boat’s needs.Why having a sea chest or seawater intake manifold is better than not having
one is because they enable you to have many less holes in the bottom of your
boat, less thru-hulls. When I got Silverheels she had some absurd number of
thru-hulls. Pearson just stuck them in anywhere and everywhere for each and
every thing that needed to drain overboard. It was like Swiss cheese. Making
an intake manifold was part of my overall campaign to reduce the number of
these holes in the boat. Ultimately I halved the holes, from the original 18
to 9 now. I feel that’s an improvement.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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