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I agree with the idea to run heavy oil in the Walter but I have been using the regular engine oil Rotella with Lucas Oil additive, 25%. I started using Lucas in my old P323 volvo diesel when I noticed that many the shrimp boats in my north Gulf Coast area used it with success to keep their old engines running. I have used it in my W-60 for the 5 years I have had this boat and I swear that it runs better now after 1200 hours than it ever has. This was a great lakes boat when I bought it, and it only has about 3200 total hours on the original engine now. I have NO oil leaks (finally) and my bilge is now clean. Now after having said that, it will probably blow up on my next gulf crossing. As you know, they don’t break close to home-port. I have had to replace just about everything else that is attached to the engine, however, which includes belts, alternator, tranny, water pumps, hoses, injector pump, fuel pump, even the dip-stick. Just wonder if any other old engine boats use the Lucas or other additive. Some people love it, others hate the idea of it.
Charlie
OneEighty #54Here is OneEighty sailing across the finish line in the Dauphin Island Race 2014 to take first in fleet. As you may have read, the DI race 2015 ended up in a nasty storm with lost boats and the loss of 6 souls.
The greenwater pic is taken en-route to the Exumas.Cloudy, rainy, and overcast on North Gulf coast tonight. No moon. I guess that is a type of full eclipse.
CharlieIf someone bought it I might offer to take the engine out for them if they would let me have it for parts.
Charlie Stewart
OneEighty, hull 54Pete: Let me know how much I need to PayPal to you for the chain, assuming I was on the list.
Charlie Stewart
sailoneeighty@gmail.com
770-313-5115Pete. I figure you can only get (4) 2.5 foot takers in a 10 foot chain, but if it works out, I will take you up on a 2.5 foot section also. I put in a new throttle cable two years ago and had to get into the pedestal; hoped I would never have to do that again. Now I need to replace the gearshift cable. Might as well do everything while I’m in there
Thanks,
Charlie Stewart
OneEighty, #54Chain-plates on these boats is a hot topic I see. I have just inspected and re-bedded mine on OneEighty last week and they looked ok, visually. Of course the part that is most affected by galvanic degradation is the part that is hidden in the balsa core decking. I had one break on my P323 before I got the 424 and replaced all chain-plates then. The 323 was also a 1979 but it had spent its life on salt water. On this boat I have hesitated replacement thinking that since this boat was in fresh water most of its life, (Ive had her only 5 years in salt environment) that they may not have had the exposure for galvanic decay. On the 323, rust wasn’t the issue, it was galvanic action.
So I am curious about what you guys are finding when you pull them out. Tor, I read your comment that they looked o.k., but you were not going to do a dye test on them. Replacement is on my list, I’m just wondering if it should be on the A list or the B list.
Charlie
OneEighty hull#54I have put the guard on mine and love it. Not only does the cowl stay on deck, it makes a perfect grab-rail to keep me on deck. No one hates to cut/drill holes in a boat worse than me, but with some things, like stanchions and grab rails, that is what is necessary to make them sturdy enough to keep man and machinery on board. Although Island Packet makes a rail that screws to the dorade box (on the IP370), I still like the idea of one that is through bolted to the deck for safety. The next thing I am thinking of is the mast guard or sissy bar that I have heard Tor talk about. Seems like every time I put a mains’l up for night passage, at 2400-0300 I have to go on deck and do something with it. I also like the idea of SS rails on the cabin top to replace the teak ones. I tie my dinghy down on deck to those rails, and I sometimes wonder if they would hold up in a blow. I think several folks have done that, like Pete?
Rich:
I had a Dorade Guard made for my boat in 2013 by an outfit named Whitewatermarineinc.com. You can call Mike Klass or Tom Heering at 810-987-4837. They will want the dimensions and will provide you a formula for that. They will build on what you give them. I put a guard on the SS cowl vent over the head, by the top hatch on the starboard side. It looks very sturdy and professional, especially with the SS cowl and is a great grab rail for going out on deck in rough weather. The hardest part of the installation was taking out the ceiling in the head and putting it all back again. They were the best price I could find, and they do good work.
Charlie (I will try to send pictures).Rich, you are right on with your observation. The 18 pitch which is what I have is too much pitch, and I can only get 2000 rpm max. On the good side, I can get 6kts at 1500rpms and burn much less fuel. It doesn’t seem to lug the engine.
CharlieSorry, Pete, I didn’t see your question.
For a 21″blade with 1.5″shaft, left turn, and a 3 blade classic Max-Prop, he recommended a 18 degree blade angle and the Max-Prop settings are Y=B and X=N. That was with with the W-60.I talked to Fred at PYI and he knew exactly what the settings were for the P424 with a 21 inch wheel. I’ll know if it works when I get it in the water. Thanks for the help.
Charlie
OneEighty, hull 54Thanks Dave. The 13 was the number I was looking for. I’m sure there is a chart to convert that to the settings. I wonder if the pitch should go up or down for a 21″ oversized prop.
That mizzen tang thang was something I had meant to ask the forum about. I for the life of me could not figure out what it might have been for. Ive never used it, it just sits there. Now that it has been suggested that it was for lifting the main boom, it makes sense. Pearson must have liked that concept, for on my previous P323, they had swedged a 3 foot cable off of the backstay and put a snap shackle on the other end for holding up the boom. I never used it either.
Charlie
