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gee thanks guys. Just when I think that I have my boat in great shape (just spent a fortune on the hard) you give me something new to worry about. And I thought Tang was a breakfast drink.
Charlie
OneEighty #54Tor, I knew that was your article. It got me thinking. Question, do you have solar panels that would get in the way of the openings? How are you guys attaching solar panels to the bimini, and does the mizzen boom cause shadow problems?
Dennis: The stack-pack concept pretty much the same by all vendors, however there are some detailed differences that I wanted to capitalize on. The Mack-pack plan seemed to be the closest to what I wanted. With it the lazy jacks connect to the boom (so you have a stronger topping lift effect) and the sail-cover has slots in it so the lazy jacks can loop through them. ( http://www.macksails.com/mackpack.htm ) That would work fine if you don’t already have lazy jacks, and you can start from scratch rigging them to match the holes in the stack-pack. Mack only sells the total package. I, however, already had lazy jacks, and I didn’t want to throw them away and buy new ones from Mack, and then have left over hardware and screw holes where I had removed the old ones. Sunbrella gives good video instruction on how to make your own, however their concept is to have the lazy jacks connected to a pvc rod that resides in a slot in the top of the sail-cover, rather than connecting to the boom. I didn’t like the looks of a 3/4″ pvc pipe on top of my sails, and besides, I still would have to modify my current lazy jacks. So I had my own made, much like the Mack Stack, only I had the holes cut precisely to fit the lazy jack lines that I already had. My lazy-jacks only have 3 lines on the main, and 2 on the mizzen, and they work fine. As a matter of fact, since they stack the sails just fine, I prefer them over the 4 line main and 3 line mizzen since you have fewer snag points when hoisting the sails, a problem with full batted sails). One consideration, and a mod I may make on my existing lazy jacks, is to put a block at the mast and a longer line to the boom with a cleat so that I can lower the jacks out of the way from that point without having to slide them through the slots on the sail cover. That’s probably not a clear description, but suffice it to say that it is potentially problematic if i am trying to raise sails with any beam wind.
Summary: The stack-pack is great for our boat. The big main and the hard to reach miz are now tied and bagged as soon as they are dropped. PS. I still want a couple of mast steps on the mizzen mast.Thanks for the links. I had already been reading some of the opines by David Pascoe. He has written quite a bit on blistering. One thing I have gleaned from all the discussions. There is no pat answer.
I now believe that all fixes are non permanent and am comfortable with the level and expense of the fix we are initiating. I plan to pull her again in one year (instead of 2 or 3) and see what we have.
What I am most excited about in is the repair we have made by over-glassing the bottom of the keel after inspecting and seeing the cumulative damage down there.Hey Skip: if you could find that article on potential incompatibility between barrier coats, I would now be interested. The yard has convinced me to use the Sea Hawk barrier coat, and we have prepared the bottom by sandblasting down to/through the 2000e barrier coat. Just want to make sure I don’t create any new issues.
thanks,
Charlie
OneEighty #54
sailon180@gmail.comWe had our pow-wow this afternoon and have pretty much decided that we will go ahead and blast through the barrier coats to the epoxy coat and put on new barrier coats then bottom paint. Will know more tomorrow after a test blast. They recommend the Sea Hawk barrier coat and say that 2-3 coats will do it.
Tor, I reviewed the article you wrote about the split keel you had, and did an inspection. Though we do not have a split or crack, I can see that the glass matte of the keel has been worn down so that the matte looks like it has been cut. After blasting, I have a glass guy that is going to cut a deep V in the keel bottom and re-glass and epoxy it and then put some new matte and glass on the bottom to replace what has been sanded off by groundings over the years. Though we have had no problems with any leaking, I will feel much better having the bottom of the keel replaced and strengthened. Has anyone added glass matte to the inside walls of the sump? That seems awfully thin???
Charlie Stewart
OneEighty #54It was Interlux Interprotect 2000e for both times, so that should not come in to play. But that’s why Interlux is involved.
I do think we will sand or blast down to the barrier coat and see what we are dealing with.Bob, I fixed my refrigeration system almost the same way you did, by charging it. Yes, I called Hansen Refrigeration Systems in St. Augustine and had him put in a new air cooled 12v 4 amp Vitrifrigo fridge and I charged it on American Express. Haven’t had a problem since. 8)
David: that’s exactly what I did. I have now replaced/repaired 4 stanchions and have put off doing the ones on the foredeck. It has worked great with the drilling out and vacuuming of the old core under the stanchions as far as I could reach (about 6 inches diameter) and then filling with epoxy. Then I re drilled and bolted down with 1/4″ aluminum plates and 4200 seal. That alone has dried out my cabinets and storage spaces that were getting moisture from the leaking stanchions. Chuck, The raised base might help in some cases, but mine have not leaked a bit without it, and I don’t see a need to go to the trouble. I commend you on pulling all the hardware off the deck in your upfitting. That alone is a lot of work. I am curious about what you plan to put on the decks for non-skid. My boat is going to need a non-skid re-do soon.
Charlie
OneEighty #54Dan: You said you had a picture of your HRC 10 installation on Jolly Lama, but I never saw it. I do have a raised foredeck for the windlass, but it looks like the RC10 might be a little long and interfere with the anchor locker door. Can you send a picture to my email address? sailoneeighty@gmail.com
thanks,
Charlie (my forepeak picture is attached)
https://plus.google.com/photos/101211161196102038779/albums/6074686830288648689Thanks for all the input. I like the HRC10-8 (it supports 3/16 G4) but now I am thinking that it will not fit on my deck where I have a platform built for the old SeaWolf. (see pics: https://plus.google.com/photos/101211161196102038779/albums/6074686830288648689
The old Seawolf is 11 3/8 inches long and the HRC is 14 9/16 inches long so I may not have enough deck space. I don’t think I want a vertical for some of the reasons mentioned, plus I don’t want to take up any space in the anchor locker. Soooo, I will be looking at the Quick, the Lofrans and the Lewmar to see if I can get a horizontal with a footprint of about 13 inches.
This will make much more sense if the pictures work, however I haven’t seen any pictures come through on this discussion yet.
Thanks,
CharliePeter: Your name came up last weekend at the Annapolis Sailboat Show. I was pricing some Garhauer gear at their booth and your name came up when I told them I had a P424 ketch. I told them I had seen your beautiful SS mainsheet track and that’s why I was interested in Garhauer. I am replacing blocks for the mizzen, and am also looking very hard at the Garhauer SS rigid boom vang. I bought the Garhauer becket block (2 1/2″ ball bearing wheee, there is no model no. on it) The rigid vang they recommended has a boatshow price of $350. I thought that was a good price. Comments? I too had thought about moving the mizzen sheet back to the stern-rail with a camcleat on a mainsheet becket block. After hearing all of this, now I wish I had made the change.
When you said red antifreeze I was thinking about the pink non-toxic stuff that is used for winterizing the fresh water systems and pumps, not the engine coolant. I suppose engine coolant is antifreeze too.
When I rebedded my stanchions two years ago, I found the original fiberglass baking plates were bent and had lost their shape. One was cracked. I had new aluminum 1/4″ plates made the same size as the originals and the guy only charged me $10 to cut about 6 of them. I drilled them myself to save his billing time. However when I started tightening the bolts, it started warping the deck. The core had been compromised.
I then did the recommended deck fix; drill out the holes, dig out the rotted core, vacuum it all clean, dry it, fill it with epoxy, then drill new holes.
Not nairy a drop leaks from those stanchions now. It actually gave me some new storage space behind the shower and nav table that I couldn’t previously use because it was so wet. Now I have 4 more to do up forward and I just can’t seem to get around to it. I know they are leaking, though.
