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In 2012 I read about what others had done with the space behind the shower so before I headed out to the Bahamas I bought a storemade inspection door from West M and then cut the hole in the shower (that was scary) and screwed it in. I put a wooden shelf in and there I stow my towels, paper towels, toilet paper and other bulky items that need to stay dry. Wonderful free space. There isn’t much that hasn’t been done by someone on these old girls.
CharlieTor: I was talking about putting the gallon jug receiver in the bilge, not dumping into the bilge. No one has mentioned the simplicity of just using the sink or the shower. Of course then it would be called a urinal and who wants to brush their teeth there. This thread has had my interest because I really have thought about the possibility of a urinal with a Y into the sink thru hull for several years. This thread has helped me decide,
really, the gallon jug is a very sound and simple solution.
Charliehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/ECO-URINAL-NEW-Mini-Waterless-Sanitary-Odorless-Urinal-/280767731382
I’m wondering if this would work. I ran across this portable urinal (see attached url) that might work well in the head, attached to the wall in the head or shower, and drained into a gallon jug under the sink or in the bilge behind the newly installed (customized) shower storage door. If it were in the shower, I would have water handy to wash it with. The gallon jug could be emptied daily. As I think about it, it would be easier to use an empty orange-juice gallon jug like the one my brother uses, and just empty it when it is full. Also great for that 3 a.m. pee when you don’t want to wake everyone up with the pumping.
Ken. Yes, I have often thought of how I could put in a urinal into the head that would be attached to the sink drain, yet something that wouldn’t flood the boat. That way you wouldn’t be utilizing water (my vaccuflush head uses fresh water) when you didn’t have to. When making a crossing at night, I don’t want me or my crew peeing off the side of the boat. When you figure it out, let me know. Until then, I have devised (stolen the idea) a utensil made of a funnel and a 3 ft piece of 1/2″ hose that fits into the scupper in the cockpit and makes a great urinal for a guy on watch who needs to relieve himself, and it keeps him in the boat while the other crew is asleep. I am using the masculine term assuming that this thing won’t work well with the women, though I have suggested to my wife that it just might work. She has assured me that I just better keep enough fresh water on the boat for her to have full use of the vaccuflush.
I was just reading some old posts to get ideas for refinishing my teak and holly sole and see that others had chemically (and heat gun) removed all the old finish. I had not planned to do that. My floor is in pretty good shape now, so I had just planned to lightly sand with a 220 grit to even things up and prepare the surface. Then I planned to re-coat with a quality flooring polyurethane, gloss. There is a lot of good press about Ultimate Sole, but it seems they are out of business since about 2010. I am also looking at Fabulon or Minwax floor finish. Any comments on what I am planning and does anyone know if the original Pearson finish was varnish or polyurethane. I guess i would need to re-coat with the same. Thanks.
Charlie
Sv/ OneEighty, hull 54Yes, I think I do in my shop. I gave away the compressor but I think I kept the bracket thinking I might need one some day.
Pete, if I recall, you also have Garhauer a main track that is custom made of polished 316 SS and 24k gold plated. I remember that it was very bling but if I recall you got a brother-in-law deal because you were writing for Blue Water magazine. Mine is aluminum with a fresh coat of Interlux Brightside.
I have been thinking about replacing my spreader lights with LED but frankly, that has been a low priority. I have already replaced everything filament with LED including running, anchor, and all cabin lights. The two that I haven’t done yet are the steamer and the spreaders. My logic is that I only use them when the engine is running so the amperage doesn’t matter. At anchor, I have on lots of cabin lights with the anchor light and I barely move the amp needle.
Doing a night crossing the LED running lights save about 8 a-hrs/ hr.
Now if I just had LED refrigeration, radar and autopilot.How about you take it all off and start at the bow and come aft, butting each piece to the next so there are no gaps.
Regarding backstay adjuster, I have tried to figure a way to do that with the Ketch rig. I guess you could put two pulleys on the split backstay and when you put tension on them, it would tend to rake the main mast some. Of course the mizzen and main mast are attached at the top (whatever that thing is called) so the mizzen would be affected. I believe it would help pointing if you moved it just ever so slightly enough to take the slack out of the forestay/genoa. I do move the main sheet traveler to windward all the way to line up with the right side of the companionway. Then I put a cheater block on the mizzen sheet to move it to windward also. That seems to help. You can then let the sheets out a tad to keep it from pinching, yet still keep your sails full. When my sloopy friends ask if the mizzen does any good I tell them it is like having a Catalina 22 behind me pushing.
CharlieTor, I feel like I was sailing 45 degrees off the wind tacking on 90. I know that sounds unreal but we were out-sailing some pointing type boats. My old Pearson 323 never got close to that. Yes, I did slow down the more I pinched, but I kept looking for that happy medium. The age old question still persists: is it better to lay off the line for more speed or go for fewer tacks? I’m not that good a tactition to know the answer. I just got lucky.
Hey guys; thanks for the help. I have solved the cranking problem. Fortunately it wasn’t a glow plug or fuel problem like I suspected from the symptoms. It was a faulty Kill-Switch cable that was bending when it was pushed back in and would not properly re-set the butterfly valve on the injector pump. Therefore the engine would turn over but not crank. All fixed!!
Fortunately, by trying some of the other fixes that were suggested I also found and fixed a fuel-air leak on my return line, and was able to find a good deal on some new/old Westerbeake parts that included some new injectors and glow-plugs that will be nice to have in the spares kit for that rainy day. Speaking of rainy day, we just had from 14 to 20 inches of rain in Gulf Shores/Pensacola. That makes for really high tides and muddy water.
Thanks again, everybody.
charlie
sv/ OneEighty
#54Thanks, John.
I looked at Vetus and wondered if the different models were capacity sensitive. It appears that the different models only refers to hose sizes. Question: if the Vetus is plastic, what happens to it the first time it runs hot?
Has anyone replaced one of these and what did you use?
Charlie
