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hanks424
ParticipantThe W60 is a low-rpm robust block — feed her clean fuel and keep her cool — she’ll never let you down. My bilge mat under the pan is clean. The circulating pump was not designed to handle heavy side loads (ball bearings) — this is a source of grief for many owners. Set up properly they keep on ticking.
Hank S.
s/v Shay________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantPete’s correct. In the water, starting with the prop shaft. The best way without removing the prop shaft on the hard is fixing the prop shaft at approximately ‘center’ position. You can check by diving and make sure it is centered at the hull, but sometimes the stuffing box tube is not centered with the propshaft. Regardless, fix the prop shaft at the proper position and then move the v-drive to get an exact match. Rotate the shaft 180 degrees to make sure it still aligns.
Next you move the engine to get spot on. Most vibrations are due to engine misalignment. When I installed a new rv-28 drive we made a dummy drive shaft to perfectly align the transmission output flange with the input shaft of the v-drive drive. We did this with the drive shaft out of the boat, using only the v-dive input shaft and the dummy shaft. You would be surprised to see how far 424’s engines are out of alignment. Contrary to popular belief, the propshaft u-joint MUST be aligned in all dimensions to eliminate issues.
The dummy shaft is just a section of pipe that slips over the input shaft on the v-drive; the other end is a welded flange that was trued in a lathe. Be sure you fix the input shaft on the v-drive at the center position. Move the engine in all dimensions until the flanges perfectly align. We did Shay over 10 years ago and never had a vibration issue.
Hank S.
Ketch Shay #90
Lighthouse Point, FL________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantAdam, Mack Sails built my genoa and we had a similar discussion. Decided to keep up the tradition and stay with the 150% since most of our treks have been coastal during the summer. As I mentioned before, a 135 is an ideal ‘universal’ size, but light winds are common for me. When the wind picks up, we douse the genoa and run a (full batted) reefed main. 90% of the time I run jib and jigger.
Hank S.
Ketch Shay #90
(currently scratching my head wondering why I’m selling her)________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantFor summertime in light-wind S. Florida coastal waters my 150% balances well jig and jigger — I love it. In the winter and during 20+ winds my 80% works great. Have used the 150% reefed in a pinch. Exclusive blue water I’d probably add a 135% to my inventory.
Like others have stated, it depends on when and where you play.
Hank S.
Shay #80________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantShay sports a Florida registration & costs about $11 a year. A requirement is that the boat MUST have the same make and model of engine that the boat had originally. With two extra W60’s and tons of parts, no problem!
BTW, Shay will be listed for sale. See http://home.comcast.net/~hanks424/
Hank S.________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantWow, you have a lot going on around your rudder shaft! An alternative solution for the play is to get a large block (2″ thick) of Delrin (plastic) drill a hole for the rudder shaft, then slice it in two so you can fit it around the rudder shaft. Two horizontal bolts hold the halves together. Then bolt the assembly to the existing wood cross member using four vertical bolts. You now have a monster bearing supporting the shaft. Did this on Shay and it works great.
If you don’t have the clearance you could use a thinner block.Cheers!
Hank S.
Shay #80 Ketch________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantA non-sailor friend was just hit with the same iZip. Total mess. Told him best bet is to use a good disk imaging software (Drive Image, True Image, Ghost) regularly. Up and running again in minutes. If you have a single disk notebook, either use an external drive or partition the c: drive. No more virus worries IF you regularly save images.
Hank S
S/V Shay________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantCheepo sailboater trick:
Sometime the plugs are proprietary and you won’t find a match. I’ve successfully made connectors – get female pins, solder the wires, plug them into the proper position, then carefully imbed the whole thing in GE silicone. After it sets, pull the assembly off and carefully add silicone around the exposed ends of the pins. Did this with some B&G Network connectors that are working fine years later.
Hank S.
S/V Shay________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantCharlie, Replaced my throttle, cutoff and driveshaft seals in the W60 pump for about $30 — parts on EBay. Search CAV DPA vendor is ‘mylexint’. Includes picture instructions. Important to properly torque pump driveshaft bolt. Do not replace the housing seals without doing the driveshaft seals. There are two driveshaft seals – an o-ring and a conventional seal.
If your mechanic doesn’t work out give it a shot — worked for me!
Hank S.
S/V SHAY________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantAny competent shop can fix it. I once ripped open the bottom of an oil pan Jeeping
in the Colorado Rockies and the welder repaired it on the engine! Dangerous, but I was young and didn’t question the welder.________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantI found a simple way to monitor tank fills on Shay. Prior owner installed access doors aft of the tanks for storage. It was a simple matter to route a clear water line from a “T” fitting at the tank outlet up over the top of each tank to the vent line. I now have level gauges visible at the rear of each tank. You will have to install a simple shutoff valve at the top of each gauge or the pump will tend to suck air. Did a similar gauge for the bow tank visible inside on of the storage compartments. Works a treat.
Hank S.
Shay
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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hanks424
ParticipantDitto on Mack Sails — those guys are great.
Hank S.
Shay________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantDan, I found a nice brass fixed port at a marine flea market and replaced the entire assembly. As I recall, the original was aluminum and the inner ring was badly corroded. Perhaps another member was successful in changing the lens. Mine looked like it would be more trouble than it was worth. While you have it out, epoxy around the hole to preserve the balsa core.
Hank S.
Shay #80 Ketch
Ft. Lauderdale________________________________
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hanks424
ParticipantSpectrum Cruisers 1992-2004 Polar White worked for patching for me for years. Last year I had a quart custom mixed for a small spray job. Both are spot on.
Hank S.
SHAY #80— On Sun, 1/23/11, quent wrote:
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hanks424
ParticipantHi Pat! Great work with the 424 list! Why don’t you suggest that members get a Yahoo or Gmail address so you don’t have to deal with the problem?
Hank S.
424 SHAY— On Fri, 11/12/10, pat noordsij wrote:
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