[Jack Clarke]

The PO of Xanadu ran the looped vent lines from the tee of the main tanks up through the cabin sole against the inboard side of the fridge. The loop goes all the way to the top edge of the fridge and you can read the water level in the tanks through the clear hose. There are indicator marks on the side of the fridge to tell how much water is in the tanks. It's not real accurate, but it's close enough. When I fill the tanks I just listen to the sound of the water in the fill hoses. If there is a spill, it's very little and I use that opportunity to clean the cabin sole. When the boat is heeled I've never had any water leak from the vented loop. The whole set up is under $5.

Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV

On 6/19/08, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Rich

It seems like it would be easy to plumb a clear tube from a Tee off the supply line at the bottom of the tank and run back into the top of the tank. The problem would locating it in a spot where it would be easy to see and at the same level as the tank. When I saw the door added at the aft end of the tank I thought that it would be a great spot for a sight glass that would be an accurate way to check the level without having to remove the inspection port on top of the tank. I haven't done this yet as I am trying to get the boat ready to use after the repower. Maybe this winter I can jump into this one.

Linus

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[Jack Clarke]

Don,
I have no idea if the original prop had walk with it or not. My prop is adjusted to 11 degrees pitch. When I first purchased Xanadu IV, I had the shaft pulled and spun to check to see if it was true. The yard had no problem pulling the shaft, and did it with the prop on the shaft.

Jack
Xanadu IV

On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 1:14 PM, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Jack

Looks like you have your Maxi prop adjusted to about 12-13 Pich. Do you know if Xanadu IV pulled with the old prop?

Thanks
Don

Syringa #124

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[Jack Clarke]

Hi Don,

1. 18″ Max prop
2. No pull (stb. prop walk in rev.)
3. None noticed
4. 7.5 kts. @ 2300
5. #134 ketch

Jack
Xanadu IV

On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 12:03 PM, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I e-mailed Michigan Prop for information on the prop size best needed for my 424 (hull # 124.) Their answer was 18D LH 13P. I have the standard Pearson 20D LH 13P on her now and she pulls to stbd in fwd (as when she backs but I like that.) I see some of your boats don't pull in forward and I'm interested if you have the standard prop. Please reply stating:

1. Prop size
2. Pull to stbd?
3. Shaft offset
4. Full hull speed RPM
5. Hull#

1. 20D LH 13P (standard Pearson prop)
2. YES / Pulls hard to stbd above 1800
3. No shaft offset noted.
4. Hull Speed 2200 7.8 Knots
5. 124

Thanks
Don (Syringa 124)

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[Jack Clarke]

Tor, I haven't received any either. People must be busy working on there boats.

Jack
Xanadu IV

On Sun, May 4, 2008 at 8:31 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Is it possible there have been no emails here since Friday morning? Or am I not receiving anymore?

Tor

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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us

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Original Message

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[Jack Clarke]

Hi Guys,
When we re-plumed Xanadu, we ran the hot and cold water to two manifolds under the floor board beside the fridge. Then we ran the respective lines to the various sinks and shower. The manifolds are available at Home Depot or any hardware supply stores.

Jack
Xanadu IV

On 4/29/08, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi Paul,

The brass header is probably the way to go, or you can make your own with the compression fitting 'T's and short sections of tubing. The only other way is to run the tubing along the floorboards and 'T' for the sink and shower, the galley sink, and finally end at the forward sink. That's the way a house would probably be plumbed. But with the header, all the fittings are in one place (I could tell you a story about why you want that – it's much easier to find a leak or a fitting that's blown off).

Whatever you do, though, get rid of the black fittings Pearson supplied. They leak.

Bob

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 3:26 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now and go with the standard set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I noticed that I only had a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot water, the 3 pieces of tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO never had hot water for the 12 years he owned the boat.

Has anyone made up a different way to do the header other than the multiple T's and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a pre-made header of some sort already out there, possibly used for radiant floor heating.

Paul

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Fine Software LLC
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