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Also got it.
Jack
Xanadu IV
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network
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I have six 6 volt flooded cell batteries as my house bank. I installed them
five years ago and have been living aboard for that time, mostly plugged
into the dock. Fridge and all lighting run off of the bank and the charger
is always on. I’m going to replace them this year only because we are
heading south next year. They seem to be fine, but five years is long
enough, they don’t owe me anything.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 12:20 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:
Quote:speaking of batteries…
I have lead-acid batteries.
I’ve never equalized them… they’re 4 seasons old.
Anyone have any words of wisdom regarding this process?Rick
EclipseOn Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 12:05 PM, Silverheels
wrote:Quote:And a Fine story it is, Bob. Solar panels are on my re-commissioning
list for next fall.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Lee,
I have a Perkins Prima and mine is heated while underway. It’s much hotter
than plugged into the dock. I have a supply and return line that go to the
hot water tank from the engine, that I assume go through coils heating the
water in the tank.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:32 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Our hot water heater works great when we are on the dock and the 50 amp
service
is plugged in, but the water heater doesn’t heat the water at all underway.
Any
suggestions?lee
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Hi Allan,
When I raised my water line, I had to repaint the bit between the cove
stripe and the anti-fouling. I had a very good match with Interlux,
Hatteras white. There are a couple of shades of this so go with what is the
closest. My hull is an off white, if there is a lot of oxidization it will
appear whiter than it really is.Good luck
Jack
XanaduOn Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 9:35 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
The best idea, sadly, is to match the color yourself. Get a can of white
gelcoat, a couple of Preval sprayers, some acetone and ancillary rags and
so
forth. Gloves are a nice addition, too.Prepare the transom by wet sanding with 220 grit and cleaning with water,
then acetone.When you purchase gelcoat, make sure you use the kind that needs air to
cure. There are two types.Get a tint kit from West – use the black or brown tint and very little of
it. I use a toothpick to color several ounces of the stuff. Start with
just the end of the toothpick dipped in the color you choose. Mix
thoroughly, and using your finger (in a glove) make a test patch on a very
clean (with acetone) spot of the hull. I often start with a dab of pure
white to be sure I’m going with the right color.If you start with brown tint and decide you want black, start with a new
mix. Don’t try to change the color with tint. You can make brown, or a
darker brown, but never black doing that. Gelcoat is fairly cheap, so
don’t
worry about wasting it.Once you’ve decided whether your hull is greyish or brownish (off white or
cream) then mix a very small amount of tint. Very small. Tiny. Much
smaller than you imagine you’ll need. You’ll never go lighter without
using
a lot of white gelcoat.Every time you add some tint, mix well. Then using your finger again, put
a
dab near the first dab to measure both how close you’re coming to the color
you want and how far from pure white you are.When you’ve gotten a color you like, cap your mix. You’ll add hardener
later.Tape the transom. Use newspaper to protect from overspray. Tape it at
seams, like where the topsides meet the transom and the cap rail meets.
Try
not to put a mask in the middle anywhere.Now comes the touchy part. Put an ounce or so of your mix into the Preval
container. Add one ounce or so of acetone as thinner and mix thoroughly.
Don’t shake, but swish. If the mixture isn’t thin (just a but thicker than
water), add some more acetone.When it seems good, add the proper amount of catalyst. For an ounce of
gelcoat, you need about a cc of catalyst – or about 20-25 drops. Then
swish
again. Insert the Preval power head and spray like you would with a Krylon
sprayer. Cover the whole transom and wait about 15 minutes and spray
another light coat. You’ll need to put 4-6 light coats. I often will go
as
high as 10 coats to build the thickness up. Don’t spray thick coats.Let the stuff dry (kick, harden, whatever you call it) so that you can wet
sand it with progressively finer paper. I start with 220, then 400, then
800, then 1200, then 2000 grit. Finally compound and wax. Make sure you
use a sanding block so you don’t gouge the gelcoat.It’s surprisingly easy. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
Bob
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 9:01 AM, allantereshko <
> wrote:I am renaming boat and need to cover old painted name on transom. Not
ready to paint whole boat, just transom. Any suggestions on matchingshade
of white by using original shade of gelcoat as a match.
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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It looks like it is the same pictures that were posted of Whoosh a few days
ago. Sitting in the same slip.Jack
XanaduOn Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 7:41 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:If they get it, I’m selling mine and getting a new boat!Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 9, 2010 7:29 AM, “Alan” wrote:Quote:Price is a little high! 189,309.00 US$
alan— On Thu, 12/9/10, Robert Fine wrote:
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Hi Everyone,
I have the same set up as Don has, with a starting battery dedicated to the
bow thruster and the windlass. In a pinch, you can remove it and start your
engine with it if your starting battery fails. As I had to do one night.Jack
XanaduOn Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 10:50 AM, Don Barber wrote:
Quote:I have a 8D forward which takes care of the windless and the Bow Thuster
only
place just aft of the water tank that is where the bow thruster is
installed
alsoDon
THISIT
hull #81 sloop________________________________
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Hi Thatcher,
What size of panel did you go with and how did you mount it?
Jack
XanaduOn Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 10:48 AM, Thatcher A. Stone wrote:
Quote:I bought a solar panel from Canada and mounted it just in front of the
doghouse, and in front of the traveler. It gets pretty much unobstructed
sunlight. With it I have been able to run my fridge 24 7 with only rare
engine starts to replenish juice. When I leave the boat for the day at
anchor, it’s on the house only, so the engine batt is always 14 plus volts.
I have an ampair wind generator but this panel has been the single best
improvement I have made to go green and run the fridge without the engine.
Also I have changed ALL MY LIGHTS to LED’s. Including NAV lights,
overheads,
courtesy, etc.The sunsei folks in Montreal are great. And if you are a live aboard you
probably get a green home improvement tax credit.http://www.sunsei.com/Solar-Lifestyle/Boating-Solar-Chargers
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I’m sorry again, it’s the raw water side.
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Jack P Clarke <> wrote:
Sorry Guys, This is the fresh water side. You just close the sea cock,
disconnect the hose , dip it into a bucket and pour the stuff in and start
up the engine until you see it coming out the exhaust. Keep the fluid level
up so that you have enough fluid going into the engine. Just the same as
winterizing an engine in cold climates. Not that too many of you would know
about cold climates. Just kidding.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 6:16 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Is this the fresh water side or raw?
On Aug 16, 2010 6:08 PM, “Jack P Clarke” <> wrote:
There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush outoutboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night,
it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been
excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with
an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and
sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than
desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the
cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatile
options,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Sorry Guys, This is the fresh water side. You just close the sea cock,
disconnect the hose , dip it into a bucket and pour the stuff in and start
up the engine until you see it coming out the exhaust. Keep the fluid level
up so that you have enough fluid going into the engine. Just the same as
winterizing an engine in cold climates. Not that too many of you would know
about cold climates. Just kidding.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 6:16 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Is this the fresh water side or raw?
On Aug 16, 2010 6:08 PM, “Jack P Clarke” <> wrote:
There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush out outboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night,it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been
excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with
an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and
sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than
desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatileoptions,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush out outboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night, it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatile options,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Lee I think that you can buy direct from Raritan.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:54 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Lee,
I agree with Jack. The Raritan PH II works and works and works.
Rebuilding
is easy, the kit is about $60, and I’m very happy with it.I’ve had the PH II on my last three boats including this one. I actually
replaced the Jabsco one on my Ranger with the Raritan but at that time,
they
were only $150 or so.Apparently, the price of pooping has become astronomical. They run much,
much more now. I suspect the theory is that you’re going to poo – there’s
nothing you can do about it. So we (Raritan) can charge what we want!
Muahhahahahahaha!Still, it’s a good head and it can be electrified.
Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Jack P Clarke <
wrote:
Hi Lee,
We have a Raritan PH II that works very well for us and we have beenliving
aboard for four years with no problems (knock on wood). It came with the
boat and I put a kit in it right away.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Lee Yonkers <>
wrote:
I need a new head. The cheap Jabsco that was on the boat just isn’t
acceptable. Any recommendations?Lee
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Hi Lee,
We have a Raritan PH II that works very well for us and we have been living
aboard for four years with no problems (knock on wood). It came with the
boat and I put a kit in it right away.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
I need a new head. The cheap Jabsco that was on the boat just isn’t
acceptable. Any recommendations?Lee
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Hi Guys,
Here’s my two cents worth. When I did the bottom of Xanadu, right after I
had her trucked up to Toronto, the yard foreman at a company called Bristol
Marine where I was doing the work said not to use any chemicals after the
bottom has been sanded off. Just use plain fresh hose water and a scrub
brush. No matter what cleaner or solvent you may use, there will always be
some trace of it left behind that will effect the bonding to the hull. Made
sense to me, so that’s the way I proceeded before applying the
Inter-protect.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Sun, May 9, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Wax, what wax? There can’t possibly be wax on the bottom of the boat after
32 years. Maybe if it were new… Am I missing something here?I hate working with Acetone. I think it pretty toxic. If I can avoid the
stuff I’ll feel more secure.What do you think guys, can I skip the acetone wipe-down?
Rich
Quote:
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I'm waiting for my NFM ports to arrive also. They should be here by the end of the week. The four larger ones open on Xanadu, so I'm just going to replace the plastic lense with glass. I've got to wait for some warmer weather before I start on mine.
Jack Clarke
XanaduOn Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 10:20 AM, calicojack wrote:
Pat – your timing could not have been better, I rec'd my ports (5X12) from New Found Metals yesterday. I'm replacing the long ones in the main salon with fixed Bomon (not Bomar) aluminum ports. I'll let everyone know how this works out. Best/ Jack
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I have the same set up as Alan, only I put mine on. It works great. The only down fall is that acts as an eaves trough during heavy rain.
Jack Clarke
XanaduOn Fri, Feb 19, 2010 at 1:02 AM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Quote:Wow Alan, that's pure genius!—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “Alan”
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 6:13 PM
To: ()
Subject: Re: mizzen roller furlI have a stack pack on mine that the PO put on. I also put the zipper on a line attached to both ends of the boom with a 2 small blocks. it works like the old time clothes lines. I can stand at one end and pull the zipper all the way back or forward.s
Alan— On Thu, 2/18/10, calicojack wrote:
Quote:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
