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Rich,
Your engine control panel is a really good idea. When I repowered last winter I let my installer put the standard Yanmar panel on the bridge deck where the Westerbecke instruments were located. The problem with that location is that the panel uses a key start switch. The key stands proud of the bridge deck and it is easy to hit with your foot when going into and out of the companionway. I may steal your solution, eliminate the key switch and install start & stop to momentary buttons near the helm.
I was initially worried about someone stepping on the key and breaking it off on the panel. While we were motoring down the ICW last week one of us hit the key and moved it to the off position. This happened more than once although we were aware of the vulnerability of the key switcht. All of a sudden we'd notice the instruments were dead. I wish I had thought this through better when we were doing the re-power, but the instrument panel just wasn't something I was focused on.John
On Wed, Oct 29, 2008 at 9:47 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Aaron
Putting the batteries in the starboard locker doesn't make a lot of sense. At one point in time, I had large 6v batteries in there, like golf-cart batteries but much taller and heavier. It gave the boat a permanent list. I relocated the batteries to the bilge just forward of the sump. This puts them out of the way and where the weight will do some good. The drawback with this is that if you boat floods, your batteries will be under water. I have a separate starting battery that is on the shelf inside the hanging locker, so even if the bilge floods I still have power until that is underwater too. By then, I have bigger problems. I cut out the battery box and now have a huge locker for storage. Its full of stuff of course. Someone installed them under the steering quadrant. My autopilot is there, so I couldn't do the same. This limits the height of the battery, but otherwise looks to be a good spot if yours will fit.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/album08The pull cable is expensive to replace and IMHO is a dumb idea. I tore it out and replace it with a solenoid lever made for that kind of thing. When you turn the key on, the solenoid pushes the kill lever to “ON” and when you turn the key off it returns it to “OFF”; just like a car.
I replaced the engine three years ago with a Yanmar. They have a cutoff solenoid as part of the stock engine. They have it backwards however. Apply power to the solenoid to kill the engine. This means that you need an off-button. This is what the panel looks like now.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/key.JPG
I have no key on the panel. The top switch pulls out to supply power to the panel. The red button stops the engine, green starts it. I also put a key just above the engine so I can start the engine from inside the boat when working on it.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
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Gee, interesting concept – winterize a boat by draining the tanks and pumping antifreeze into the system. I find it much easier to winterize by moving the boat to a warm climate for the winter:).
Sorry, couldn't resist. Actually I'm still in Beaufort, NC and it got down to the low forties last night. Headin' further south this weekend before I have to drain my water tanks as well.John
On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hey, Patrick,I installed another T at the manifold before the pump with a longish piece of hose that reaches the bilge opening – it serves two purposes, 1. winterizing as you can pump air or solution through system, and 2. siphon any tank to the bilge for the bilge pump. It works out pretty well and will drain the 50 gallon tanks in about 15 minutes. It's also a good way to exercise your bilge pumps…
Bob
On Mon, Oct 27, 2008 at 11:52 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:As I'm sure you all knew I had zero trouble with the removal portion of my pluming project. I'm not done the install yet, but pulling the hose from the foot pump and then giving it a few pumps created enough suction to almost completely empty the tanks. When I do the install I'm going to put a T from each tank line to allow me to empty into the bilge.That was a great suggestion!
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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Patrick,
If you are going to be replacing the hoses between the tanks and the manifold, why not just disconnect the hose at each tank and let them drain into the bilge?John
PS, you've mentioned before about how loud your freshwater pump is. The old PAR hammer type pumps were loud, but not so much so as yours seems to be. Can you post a picture of this beast?
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 4:42 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm going to drain the tanks tonight in preparation for doing a pluming upgrade (all my hoses are nasty). Any tricks to do this quickly and easily. I assume I just let the pressurized system run, but man is that loud. Short of an external pump which I do not have I don't know of a better way though.
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
I think your approach of using the dorade will work for the head, but won't that eliminate the ventilation for head? Also I wanted to hide the vent hose as much as possible. The composting head is scary enough for guests without the hose running all over the place. I didn't the guests to wonder if I was doing medical experiments in the head.The fan is integral to the vent housing which just fits into a collar on the dorade box.
John
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 2:37 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John, if I zoom in I can barely make out in this photo the vent riding atop your dorade box: http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Sarah%20at%20Dock,%20Jun%2016,%202002%203.JPGI have purchased a daynight Micro to put above my head and feed the vent from my composting toilet through it. The ideal run is looking like to the outboard side of sloping bulkhead and then right out straight up, like you did: http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/CompostPrep5.JPG
I am considering instead bringing the tube over through the dorade instead of adding another vent. Anything novel or odd to share about how that fan is mounted on the dorade? I see it hangs off a little bit.
This seems like the easiest, less holes in the boat method, but means I'll also be taking a little head room out of the head as the hose (which I'd box in later) comes across the ceiling. Not something which I think would impact me though. I'm not that tall. I could move the dorade or close the dorade and add another one where you mounted your vent, that was another idea I was having.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Bob,
I'm at Town Dock. CYAJohn
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 12:31 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi John,
Am coming into Beaufort, NC tonight (10/24) on an Outer Reef 65. If time permits will be wandering around the dock. Are you anchored/moored out or in a slip?
We'll be at the town dock.
Bob
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Regards,
John Stevenson
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Dan,
I haven't put any in the main cabin. The PO replaced the cowl on the dorade in the head with a solar vent sometime in the 1990s. The solar cells or the motor finally died last year. The reason I haven't replaced it is I've had such bad luck with the Nicro solar vents I've purchased over the last 20 years. Everyone I've purchased died within 3 years. That includes the two I put on Sarah to replace the cowls on the transom for the engine ventilation. I used the Day/Night versions with the Nicad battery because I wanted them to keep the bilge ventillated and hopefully reduce the smell. They failed on both accounts. The batteries failed to recharge within a year so the night time operation was lost pretty quickly. Two years later the fan motor stopped working even when held the vent directly into the sunlight. I don't know if it was the motor or the solar cells that failed. So now I have three passive vents on Sarah. The bilge smell didn't go away until I removed all of the sewage hoses last summer.
My recommendation would be to go with the passive vents and forget solar power. If you do go with solar vents, don't waste your money on the Day/Night versions.
Of course others may have had better experience with these vents. There also may be a better manufacturer than Nicro. The fact that the vent the PO installed (looks like a Nicro) worked for more than 10 years says they can be durable. Maybe I just have a skill for picking the lemons.John
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 7:12 AM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone installed the solar powered cabin vent units on their 424? If so, where did you mount them? Are you satisfied with their performance?
Dan Kalinowsk
S/V Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi, Quent.
I'm currently sitting in Beaufort, NC waiting for my crew to return in about a week. Then we head outside to the Bahamas.John
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 5:23 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Just yesterday addressing the exhaust issue on Clairebuoyant. Same situation, but with our W-58, exhaust comesoff forward (boat) end of engine, and muffler and exhaust both on port side. Found a nice bronze Apollo 2″ valve at ChesapeakeMarine Fasteners (Fawcetts) and thread to hose connectors at Defender. Will install just inside transom.
Heading down ICW middle of next week. Anyone else going south?
Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant, #132—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Paul,
No, I still sheet the staysail outside of the shrouds. Something to occupy my mind during the winter in the Exumas.
My 10' RIB fits between the mast and the front of the cabin trunk. It does not interfere with the staysail when sheeted outside the shrouds. With the dingy deflated I will have room for short lengths of genoa track on the edge of the cabin trunk. That is my plan, but I'm still working on it. If I had all the projects completed I'd have to find another lifestyle.John
On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 5:33 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
While reading Practical Sailor's October issue about folding transom dinghies, I was wondering what people were doing about dinghies stored forward of the mast when flying a sail an inner forestay of either type. I know Bob's is a roll-up, so that is not an issue.
John, I see from your site that you have re-cut your staysail to fly inside the shrouds. Have you figured out a way to sheet it with the dinghy in the way.
Paul
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I think the shut-off valve as Paul described is not a bad idea. I sailed across the Atlantic twice without a loop or shut-off valve, but that was more out of ignorance than a choice. I think the risk is pretty low, but the consequences are severe. With the new engine I now have a loop that goes to the top of the transom.
John
On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 10:58 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Walter:
You are right. Installing a shutoff valve is probably the safest solution. If it is installed in the hose just as it leaves the underside of the cockpit floor, it should be easy to access. Just make it standard practice to hang the engine keys from the valve any time it is closed.
Paul
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John Stevenson
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Linus,
I don't think ventillation is an issue. Actually, if you haven't sealed off the aft portion of the engine compartment the solid material might reduce engine noise in the cockpit.John
On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:06 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:JohnI have no doubt that the starboard is the better material. The cost is the big factor and I have a sheet that I don't have another use for. My big question I guess is the holes. Are they needed for ventilation or was that just a cheap material that Pearson had on hand?
Linus
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Rick,
What do you have that keeps stuff in the port and starboard lockers from rolling under the fuel tank. Peg board seems to be the Pearson solution in the early models.John
On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:23 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I also am a little confused.. There is no pegboard on Eclipse…
On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:16 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm following this thread with the hopes of understanding where the pegboard actually is.
I have pegboard covering the buss bars in the nav station hanging locker, thats it.On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:06 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Linus, Rich,
Same here. I've replaced the peg board material twice, most recently last month. Each time I looked for light weight plastic material with the necessary stiffness and cheap price. I'll probably be looking to replace the new peg board in about 3 years. I hope someone finds a better material by then.John
On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 2:02 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Linus
I've replace pieces of the pegboard over the years. I agree that the stuff isn't particularly suited to damp environments but it is easy to cut and inexpensive to replace. I wish I could say that about more boat parts. It comes in at least two thicknesses and comes with various patterns. I've used the thicker variety with a fake wood grain pattern. It might last a little longer if it were painted. I've been able to keep most of the water out of my lockers, so its held up fairly well. I've also used the stuff to make shelves in some of the lockers below. I find that I need shelf space more than hanging locker space.—
Rich Carter
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Patrick,
Unless you have a generator or a seawater cooled refrigerator condensor that should be about it.
In addition to the one on my Maxprop I also put one on the shaft.John
On Wed, Oct 15, 2008 at 12:11 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm reading through all those manuals I scanned and I thought I was going to find more zincs in the system. Is there really only the one one in the Heat Exchanger and the ones on the prop?
Checking these and replacing would be a good thing to add to that Winterizing list that went out today.
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Rick,
Can your wind generator be relocated to the mizzen mast head? That's were Jack Tyler has his generator and he flies a mizzen staysail. Of course then you'll want to put mast steps on the mizzen so you can service the generator.John
On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 12:25 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks Alan and Thatcher…
I was afraid that was going to be the answer…
Not having flown one before I just wasn't sure.
Rick
Eclipse #73On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 1:11 PM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thats why I put my Wind Generator 3 feet above the mizzen. B____tch for maintenance, but it's out of the way.
alan— On Tue, 10/14/08, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Alan,
The the luff tape the full length of the foil is fairly common for this type of sail. As I said we had one on the boat I raced on. If that's the question then the sailmaker is not blowing smoke.John
On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 8:46 PM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I understand and agree about the inner fore stay. I have a solent stay on my boat. The question at hand is, given the option of a SJ to put on the furler, do you go with sail make one – luff tape the full height of the furler, or Sail maker two, luff tape just the length of the sail. I've never heard of or seen a set up where the tape is longer than the sail. Is this guy blowing smoke or what.
alan— On Wed, 10/8/08, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
