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Silicone alone is a compressive sealant – in other words, the gasket is made, cured and then compressed. If done correctly, will last for years. If done incorrectly as most boaters and some 'professionals' do not only allows leaks but guarantees them.
Silicone sealants will pull away from the substrate and will wick water in with capillary action to the extent it will leak worse than it would have without the sealant.
Sika is a company that produces a number of sealants/bedding/adhesive compounds for many purposes. Sikaflex is a terrific compound for any purpose except polycarbonates.
For my two cents, then, use either a combination silicone/polyurethane like Boat Life, or pure polyurethane like Sikaflex. Silicone in this application is guaranteed to fail and will result in delamination or core rot because around the chain plates you can't compress the stuff after it cures.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 9:25 AM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Ok, I answered my own question. Sikaflex is a
polyurethane. You won't go too far wrong with that,
though I think it's overkill, and I'm not crazy about
PU in that they sometimes don't cure well and they
don't weather all that well either. I've used silicone
around the deck without any problems and I'm in the
tropics for the past two years.
— John Sommer < ([email][/email])> wrote:Hello,
I will be picking up my new chain plates from the
local machinist this week. In thinking about
putting them back into the boat, what should I use
to keep the water out. The PO used silicone and it
worked quite well. However, my surveyor was not
very fond of silicon and recommened Sikaflex. I
don't want a permenant bond (thats what the bolts
do), I just want something that will keep the water
out.Suggestions?
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Chuck,
The main shaft is, indeed, 1.5″ like the rudder shaft. I've repacked smaller shafts in the water (1″) and the flow wasn't too bad. I've also repacked feed pumps, 25,000 shaft horsepower shafts, and the like when I was a guest of the U.S. Government (Navy).
Still, all those were way easier to get to than the P424. I'll let you know.
Thanks!
Bob
On Mon, Mar 31, 2008 at 11:01 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Bob, the main is the same type of packing nut as the rudder. Physics says this one is going to leak a lot more than the rudder when you remove it. I didn't measure the rudder post but it if it is 1.5″ like the main shaft I'd guess that the main shaft will also take the 1/4″ packing.
If you've never repacked one before I would think hauling would be in order or pay a pro to do it but then you'd miss out on the learning experience.
On 3/31/08, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi All,
Before I get upside down and twisted to do this – does anyone know what size packing the main shaft takes? Do you have to remove the engine to V-drive shaft to do the work? Can it be done in the water?
Thanks,
Bob
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Paul,
Although there is the potential for spills from wet cell batteries that doesn’t exist for sealed batteries, the sealed batteries in addition prevent the ingress of seawater. Seawater and batteries are a horrible mixture and potentially common, I’d think, in the event of a knockdown, I’d think.
In addition to dealing with the acid, you’d be dealing with a corrosive and deadly chlorine gas.
That’s all I have to say about that.
Bob
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Hi Rodd,
There was a discussion a while back about the virtues of Marelon vs. bronze. I happen to like Marelon. I've never had any problem with it and never had a Marelon ball valve seize. Others have had other experiences, I gather. I like Marelon because it withstands freezing better than bronze and you don't have to operate the valves twice a year as recommended for bronze.
On the other hand, if you maintain bronze valves properly, you'll not have any problem with them either.
The other issue is that Marelon doesn't contribute to galvanic corrosion. You don't need to ground the fittings or valves.
I'm of the school that says (perhaps incorrectly but so far successfully) if your boat isn't grounded to the environment through metallic thru hulls and so forth it isn't a target for lightning. This is, in my opinion, because lightning requires a ground leader for connection. Videos show that a leader comes down and meets one coming up from the ground, tree, water, or what have you. Once they connect the main strike happens. So if you don't provide the leader from ground, you're less likely to attract the strike.
Others may argue. Really, how many boats get stricken by lightning a year?
So, in short, you could go either way and be fine.
Bob
On Sun, Mar 30, 2008 at 8:59 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I was sanding the bottom today and took a good look at the plastic thru-hulls at the water line. I think it's time to replace them this year. Did anyone put a seacock in line with the new bronze thru hulls? Also, how about using the MArelon version for these fittings? Any feelings one way or the other?
Thanks
Rodd Leeds
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Hi Don,
If I didn't already have one…
Bob
On Sun, Mar 30, 2008 at 8:37 AM, Don Barber < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:to anyone that knows of any one looking for a pearson 424Don
Forwarded Message —-
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Aaron,
Sorry about that. Also about the image – sometimes I can be a dufus. Here it is in all its glory.
I don’t like the location of the batteries, either, but I didn’t feel like changing them. My batteries are wired in parallel and they go to the Bank 1 of the switch. The other battery goes to Bank 2.
Below the boxes in the starboard lazarette is very little space as they are fiberglassed to the hull. Someone here has relocated all their batteries around the water heater. I forget who. They then removed the boxes for better storage. It’s not a bad idea at all – it lowers the weight in the hull and gives a whole bunch more stowage. Still, it’s a lot of work.
Good luck – if I can be of any help, let me know.
Bob
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The W58 and I believe the W60 have a fitting on the bottom of the oil pan to which you can connect a pump. If not, they are available fairly inexpensively.
Bob
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 2:33 PM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
If it's anything like a W58 – suck it out of the dip
stick tube….
Run the engine, get it warm and there ya go!
I have one of the blue can things that you can pump up
to a pretty strong vacumm. Works the best of all the
devices I have wasted my money on in the past 30 years
to suck oil out of a marine engine.
alan— adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Where do we pump the oil out on a W60?
-Adam Silverstein
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Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Heck, John, if it takes you more than a couple of hours to troubleshoot, you should just replace the manifold with PVC ball valves and piping. It's simple to do, nearly impossible to screw up, and will last longer than you or the boat (assuming you're over, say 10 years old).
I had them in my Ericson, and they worked just fine for years. I hate the original valves, too, and will replace, but it's really low on the list. I'll use PVC and replace all the hoses since they're tygon tubing. The only reason they don't collapse is because they're stiff from age… 🙂
Bob
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 12:28 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Rich.
You're probably right. It is always difficult to assemble threaded pipe in this manner and get all the valves to line up properly. I may not have seated one of the connections properly. My first step will be to carefully re-assemble the manifold before starting to replace any componenets.On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 12:20 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John
My first guess would be that you may not have connected the various parts properly when you assembled the manifold. If you used teflon tape, it's easy to wrap the tape the wrong way. Pipe-joint compound is easier to use. The easiest way to find a leak would be to pressurize the manifold.Try this. Disconnect the feed hoses from the three tanks. You'll probably have to put some kind of plug in the ends to keep water from draining from the tanks. A cork should do. Take a short section of hose and connect two of the hose barbs together. For the third, run the hose up to the deck and into a bucket of water. Siphon some water down the hose and then connect it to the remaining barb. you'll now have a little pressure in your water system. You should be able to observe a water leak wherever the problem exists.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I concur – 1 – 1/2″. Also, dish soap is ok, as well, except it smells bad when heated. With dual clamps, it won't slip off.
Bob
On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 10:19 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Yikes thats cold…..It was that cold this weekend
inside the boat …..Frosty to say the least….
Thanks for taking the time to check for me….
alan— Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Alan:
I just climbed on the boat (only -11C on it this
morning) and my 2 mid
drains (through the galley and head) are both
clearly marked 1 1/2″. The aft
ones appear to be the same size, based on the
identical OD.Paul
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
You can use any 4″ center to center shower faucet, too. You'll have to open the holes a bit. I checked with the company, and they still make a replacement, but it's horribly expensive. Tra la.
Go standard.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 5:49 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bill,
I don't know that there was a standard shower mixer/head on the P424s. When I bought Sarah the mixer was a Tempo faucet with a shower head and hose attached. I replaced everything with a standard mixer and shower head from Home Depot.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeHead.htm
Pics at the URL above.On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone found a source for a replacement shower
head for the 424?
Mine is falling apart.Bill Emberley
Running Tab
P424 #86Edit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340
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John Stevenson
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The easiest way to put it on is to wipe a little vaseline on the inside, heat it up, slide it on. It takes a little practice to get the heating even and not too hot so that the hose doesn't wrinkle, but it's not hard. Two clamps and you're good to go.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 5:36 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Is the 1 1/2 in. sanitation hose at all flexible? I am afraid it may be too rigid to get over the fittings–or do you have to heat it before each install ?Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I would think the aft deck drain on the Starboard side is worse – it's behind all the wiring and stuff – the port one I can climb into the port locker to do.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 10:37 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Alan
I used the white sanitation hose that West Marine sells.Removing the hose is a bitch. The worst one to reach is the aft deck drain on the port side. I came up with a method that seems to work pretty well. Cut the hose with a sawsall, as short as you can. Grab the steel reinforcing wire with a pair of vice-grip pliers and pull the wire out of the hose. It takes a good tug, but the wire should pull out. Then cut the rubber hose off with a sharp knife.
If you missed the earlier thread, the hose that Pearson used needs to be replaced. The rubber gets brittle with age. Mine are all replaced now. Some of the hoses were pretty scary when I finally got around to removing them.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
All good advice and exactly what I'd tell you.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 9:57 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Check out http://www.powertrackhose.com
They have all kinds of marine hose. If they don't show what you need,
just call and ask.
Great prices, great service.Pete
alan P wrote:
Thanks Chuck,
2 years ago I replaced/rebuilt most of the thru-hull
fittings in the same manner as you. The last 4 I need
to do are the scupper drains..
thanks
alan
— Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:Alan, I used the white flex tubing also, not the
odor resistant stuff as
there isn't a need and it's about $10 a foot…
If you have not done it already when you replace the
hose to the above the
waterline drains you should consider replacing the
thru hull fittings. Over
the years the originals become brittle from the UV
and if struck could
break. Additionally there is no backing behind
them.
I made up some donuts out of 1/4″ plywood and gave
them a couple coats of
epoxy. They seat between the hull and the thru hull
nut spreading out the
load. If I did it again I would have contoured the
rings more to the hull
shape before applying the epoxy.Lastly, a propane torch or a heat gun used to gently
warm the hose ends
makes the hose much easier to get onto a barb
fitting.Chuck
On 3/24/08, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I need to replace some of the hose for the deck
drains.____________________________________________________________________________________
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I have the white hose that is also used for the head. It's easy to keep clean and it looks good in the lockers.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 6:55 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I need to replace some of the hose for the deck
drains.
Specificly the one that goes right through the middle
of the galley storage area and the one on the opposite
side in the head.
What do you all think is a good hose. I am trying to
stay away from that really heavy black hose.
alan____________________________________________________________________________________
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