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madsailor
ModeratorNo, Dan, those ports leak. But you must have had your vents moved or your clothes or underwear would get wet.
Pearson routed them into blind walls above and aft of the forward cabin sink and the hanging locker .
I found out the hard way.
I originall thought it was just the 424s but my friend's 35 had the same problem.
Bob
madsailor
ModeratorI had the same problem. Here's how I fixed it.
First, I redirected the vents into the deep part of the bilge (at the top). Next, I replaced those stupid inspection plates with real water tight ones. The ones Pearson used are meant to keep water out, not in, so overfilling them resulted in water running off the top of the tank. Finally, the vent tubes rather than going up two feet in the boat I laid out in an 's' turn going side to side on the tank top so that overfilling the tank won't result in over pressurizing the tank.
A 2' vent puts 1 psi on the tank. I was told the tanks are fairly weak.
So that's the reason for my solution.
Bob
madsailor
ModeratorHi Charlie,
The pump can be rebuilt.
Bob
madsailor
ModeratorThanks, Ewan! Same to you!Bob
madsailor
ModeratorShould be 3/16″. Use teflon impregnsted packing. Get 2 packages from West Marine.
Bob
madsailor
ModeratorAlso, you may have room to tighten the packing.
madsailor
ModeratorWow!November 2, 2016 at 5:22 pm in reply to: daylight coming through the crack in the bottom of my keel #221831madsailor
ModeratorAh. Well, then, that explains it. Also, I updated my profile.November 2, 2016 at 5:03 pm in reply to: daylight coming through the crack in the bottom of my keel #221826madsailor
ModeratorI will, although I haven't changed them. Why all of a sudden I get your email?Just askin'
Bob
November 2, 2016 at 4:37 pm in reply to: daylight coming through the crack in the bottom of my keel #221822madsailor
ModeratorThis is not an unusual occurrence with these boats. The bottom of the keel was very thinly made and not reinforced where the molds went together. A bad blocking and you have a serious issue.I repaired mine when I first got the boat and it was fine until it blocked wrong in Florida crushing the keel. The haul out after that, my friend Cory and I put 9 layers of biaxial cloth wetted out with thickened epoxy. At this point I could block the boat there but I still don't.
If you have a 424 and your bilge is constantly wet, you may very well have this issue.
For newbies: Always block the 424 at the front 18″ or so of the keel and the very back of the keel. All the part that sounds hollow when you rap on it leave unblocked.
That's my two cents.
PS. Haven't hear much from this site recently…
madsailor
ModeratorYay! Welcome to the club!
madsailor
ModeratorI assume there are keyways for the prop and coupling? The measurements would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
madsailor
ModeratorHi Rich,
I'll check this out, but if it's good enough for nuclear power plants it should be ok here.
The reason it's used is because of its resistance to chloride stress corrosion.
But all info welcome. I'll ask my machinst, too.
Thanks,
Bob
madsailor
ModeratorThanks, Tor! You da man. I suspect that it hasn't changed in 6 years… Nothing down below Pelican has changed much! 🙂Bob
madsailor
ModeratorThanks, Charlie.I plan on replacing mine with Monel. It's far more resistant to corrosion and should last the life of the boat. It's not as susceptible to chloride crack corrosion (where a low oxygen, high chloride environment causes intergrain boundaries to corrode).
At 1.5″, I'm pretty sure the shaft will be plenty strong.
The question is whether the taper is a standard Morse taper or something else. I'll get with my machinist friend…
Thanks for the length.
Bob
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