Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi Tor,
I'm smiling, actually laughing here – I am obviously raising and lowering my headsail way too frequently!
🙂
Bob
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 1:52 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,Humble opinions are welcomed. Really, those are good, valid points.
I had a steel Finisterre yawl many years ago with wire halyards & winches, which were an inconvenience and, yes, a potential wrist-breaker that I nevertheless managed to survive. I would not use them by choice today on any regular basis, but I think I can handle operating one once every few years. That's about as often as I tend to take down my roller furling genoa when I'm cruising. Anyway, changing over is not a priority project at the moment. Just something on a might-do eventually list.
Thanks for your input.
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi John,
Well, and everyone else, too. Why do you want such large halyards? The hoist on the main is actually shorter than my Ericson 34 which was perfectly happy with 3/8″ line. I'd say, use the smallest possible rather than the largest, but perhaps there's something I don't understand yet about the 424.
That said, I almost never use an eye splice for the halyard – it wastes too much hoist. Believe it or not, there is a special knot whose sole purpose is to attach a shackle to a halyard. It's called the buntline hitch (http://www.the-sailors-place.com/special_knots.htm)
It allows a full hoist, is easy to make, difficult to break, and easy to shorten the halyard when there's a reason due to chafe. It can be done in a seaway (and if you've ever had to do that on a halyard when tossing about, this is important), and it's not a bowline.
You may say, “But Bob, the knot is weaker than the splice!” Why, yes. Yes it is. Let's look at this: The working load for 7/16″ (11mm) Stayset X is 7,400 lbs (Stayset X is recommended by New England Ropes for our size boat). A 50% reduction in strength allowed for the knot and safe working loads works out to 3,700 lbs, or the hoisting of a Subaru Impreza Sportwagon with 4 passengers up your mast.
The truth of the matter is that the science and technology of cordage is so advanced now that you could very easily have no more than 3/8″ line safely.
The only reason I can see for larger line is the hand of the line.
Again, only my two cents.
Bob
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 11:26 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Paul,
When I purchased Sarah one of the first things I did was replace the wire/rope halyards with all rope with the origina sheaves. I went with 9/16″ Sta Set X thinking it would fit the sheaves. It did, but the eye splice was too large to go onto the sheave and I couldn't get a full hoist on the main. I lived with it (used a Cunnigham to tension the luff) until I swapped out the sheaves and went to 1/2″ and 7/16″.
So I can say that 1/2″ would fit easily on the original sheaves, but the eye splice may not. A lot depends how clean and tapered a splice you put on the halyard and how full the hoist is for your main. If main hoists below the black band you shouldn't have any trouble, however since I never tried 1/2″ on the old sheaves I can say for sure.
FWIW, I prefer the 7/16″ Sta Set X to the 1/2″. Sta Set X is very stiff rope. Even after 5 years my 1/2' halyards are fairly stiff. 7/16″ is more flexible and fits the halyard cleats better.John
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 11:10 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone tried using 1/2″ Sta-Set X in the original wire/rope sheaves. I may be able to get some 1/2″ for less than 7/16″ It looks like it should fit, but I thought I would check.
Thanks,
Paul #28
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
The only caveat I can offer is this: There is a reason (actually many) why wire winches aren't used anymore – things like broken wrists, radius or ulna, pinched fingers and the odd pinched fingers. Wire winches are not all that safe.
Other than that, you're good.
But as you know, it's only my humble opinion.
Bob
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 12:56 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I re-rigged with 7/16″ Sta-Set X, but if/when I come across a decent wire winch I think I'm going to switch to an all
wire genoa halyard. Since it's on a roller furling unit, the jenny gets raised once and then tends to stay up pretty
much all the time. So, rather than have that big coil of unused Sta-Set X hanging around at the base of the mast year
after year, I'd have a neat, self-contained winch-full of (non-stretch) wire. Seems more practical to me. Any thoughts
out there as to why this would not be a good idea?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Also, can you work on the rudder post packing? Or do you have to remove the batteries and box to work on it?
Thanks,
Bob
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 9:18 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Walter,Do you not have an autopilot? That's where my actuator is.
Bob
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 9:11 AM, Walter Piescik < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:If you are rebuilding the stock box (Mine was in the starboard locker, and
took a LOT of room) you may want to consider re-locating. I put mine under
the steering quadrant. This is space that is not very useable for anything
that might shift, but ther is just barely enough room for a flat platform,
T105, and a piece of plywood over the top to prevent interfering/shorting on
the quadrant. I think I will be able to fit 6 T105s back there.I cut the Pearson box out two weekends ago with a sawzall, so I am committed
now.There are some pics on the 424 website.
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Walter,
Do you not have an autopilot? That's where my actuator is.
Bob
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 9:11 AM, Walter Piescik < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:If you are rebuilding the stock box (Mine was in the starboard locker, and
took a LOT of room) you may want to consider re-locating. I put mine under
the steering quadrant. This is space that is not very useable for anything
that might shift, but ther is just barely enough room for a flat platform,
T105, and a piece of plywood over the top to prevent interfering/shorting on
the quadrant. I think I will be able to fit 6 T105s back there.I cut the Pearson box out two weekends ago with a sawzall, so I am committed
now.There are some pics on the 424 website.
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Alan,
I went to WalMart and got a group 29 or 31 (I forget which) which they call 'Marine Starting Battery'. It's only a year old, but it seems to be working – it's actually wired as bank 2, so it can perform house duties also for 10 or 15 minutes (that's a joke).
The bank 1 is three 4D AGMs. I hope they last. They were expensive.
Bob
On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 8:08 AM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Allan
If it is only used for starting the engine, then all you need is a large
automobile battery. I went down to my local discount outlet and bought the
largest automobile starter battery they have. In truth, a lawn-mower
battery would start my Yanmar, but there's no need to get anything that
small. My old W-60 would need to crank for as long as 30 seconds before
starting, so it needed a larger battery. I assume your W-58 is similar. A
deep cycle battery isn't usually designed to function well as a starter
battery, so they aren't always the best choice in those applications.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Mine's a '78 (hull 8), and it's a ketch that has had a staysail added (so, as Tor and I went back and forth with, it's either a cutter ketch or a staysail ketch, but that has nothing to do with gas tanks, really).
Bob
On Fri, Apr 11, 2008 at 7:59 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
What year is your boat? Sloop or Ketch?
alan
— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:Hi Alan,
In my model, there was no locker apparently. The
seats in the cockpit are
contiguous. So the PO built a box under the aft
port cockpit seat that
opens up like a on one end. The bottles go in like
shells in a clip, one
atop the other.It's a little wierd, but it works. I could get a
picture if you like.Bob
On Fri, Apr 11, 2008 at 6:13 AM, alan P
< ([email][/email])> wrote:Bob, Where are your 10 pound horizontal tanks
located?
alan
— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:Hi Tor,
I carry two 10 pound horizontal tanks, but
adding
another there may be
good. I generally keep my generator there,though.
Hmm, a new project. I
need that.Bob
On Thu, Apr 10, 2008 at 8:20 PM, Silver Heels
< ([email][/email])> wrote:John,
Someone installed a 20-lb propane tank in my
boat
in addition to the
original pair of little ones that Pearson
built
into the port aft cockpit
locker. Silver Heels' big tank is in the
mid-cockpit box visible in the
attached photo. It's plumbed to the small-tank
compartment, so I can
switch to any of the three tanks at will.
I wouldn't want to go distance cruising,
either,
Quote:Quote:with only the originalQuote:Pearson tanklets.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Original Message
*<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Alan,
In my model, there was no locker apparently. The seats in the cockpit are contiguous. So the PO built a box under the aft port cockpit seat that opens up like a on one end. The bottles go in like shells in a clip, one atop the other.
It’s a little wierd, but it works. I could get a picture if you like.
Bob
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
I carry two 10 pound horizontal tanks, but adding another there may be good. I generally keep my generator there, though. Hmm, a new project. I need that.
Bob
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Aaron,
I just used foam to add a holding tank in the bilge and am going to remove the sump (or move it to under the shower) to allow me to get to the remaining part of the bilge (under the v-drive and so forth).
Bob
On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 12:24 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Rtfl 🙂I do have a bit of foam securing the holding tank in, now you have me thinking that needs to go too.
Jeez, these one project leads to another.
On 4/8/08 7:45 PM, Rich Carter wrote :
Quote:Let me get this straight, your girlfried crawled into your stinky bilge and
cleaned it out!! I need to meet her. You meeting up with us at Three Mile
Harbor?Whatever you do, don't give her up. How did you find her, with an ad like
this?“Wanted, woman who is willing to climb into the darkest, worst smelling hole
on the east coast and chip out smelly chunks of plastic, then clean the
inside out with chlorox and simple-green. Please send photos and
references”Rich
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
If you can't find an on-demand unit in marine stores, I'm sure you can in an RV market. They use them all the time with nearly the same environment (well, maybe not as corrosive).
Bob
On Tue, Apr 8, 2008 at 9:29 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Rich, when you say “under the aft bunk”, your not
talking about the forward end if the port sail locker
are you?
alanQuote:Alan
I replaced mine last year with a 11gal unit. It fit
in the same space under the aft bunk. I sent out
notes and photos of the installation if you missed
them. Installation wasn't straightforward.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
OK,
My good friends at Bridge Marine Supply in City Island, NY (Bronx) told me these guys have the best prices for Westerbeke parts: http://www.mtspowersystems.com/
Realize they're dealing in generators, but although we know the company as marine power, their big thing is generators. Anyway, there you go. Let me know how it works out.
Bob
On Tue, Apr 8, 2008 at 8:47 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Eric,
I forget the name of the Westerbeke supplier I have – I'll get the name and forward it to you. Apparently they have the best prices and supplies for Westerbekes.
Look forward to more…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 7, 2008 at 4:04 PM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All,
I have totaly struck out on a rebuilder for my Westerbeke W60 fresh water pump.
Any suggestions for a good source in New England?Thanks – Eric
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Mine works, but not from the engine. I have to fix that. Otherwise I have to run the generator for hot water. The adventure will be fixing it.
Not very exciting, but there you are.
Bob
On Tue, Apr 8, 2008 at 8:50 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Kind of a slow day here with the 424 group. Everybody
must be hard at work.
Any good hot water heater stories to relate…..
alan____________________________________________________________________________________
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Eric,
I forget the name of the Westerbeke supplier I have – I'll get the name and forward it to you. Apparently they have the best prices and supplies for Westerbekes.
Look forward to more…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 7, 2008 at 4:04 PM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All,
I have totaly struck out on a rebuilder for my Westerbeke W60 fresh water pump.
Any suggestions for a good source in New England?Thanks – Eric
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Linus,
I'm going to throw my two cents in here – there are standards for exhaust hose for marine use. Check this link: http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/askbill.htm
Use certified wet exhaust hose. Reinforced or not isn't the correct question. Hose that meets the standards is.
All I'm saying here is make sure that wherever you get the hose, it's meant for and can withstand extremely high temperatures.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 7:30 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hey Guys
I am buying exhaust hose and I found out that the surplus hose man on eBay is located in my home town. He said that soft wall hose is fine. All the hose that I have looked at before is wire reinforced. His is less than half price and is in stock here in town. Is soft wall marine exhaust hose OK to use?
Linus
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
