[Miss Kathleen]

If the normal V belt is used a double pulley is required. You will most likely find that any alternator around 120A will have a double pulley.

A further improvement in order to maximize the 120A/130A alternator is to remove the standard regulator and install a smart regulator. The general rule is to have an alternator rating that is 25% of the installed battery amphour rating.

I used a Leece-Neville 120A unit with dual pulleys in addition to the standard alternator. The 120A unit is for the house batteries whilst the standard 50A unit is for the Starter battery.

All cables work through a dual battery switch with a VSR.

Cheers

[Miss Kathleen]

I had single line reefing on my previous yacht. Great system however, it is only used for the first two reefs. It is a safety thing, and reduces the necessity of going on deck. The real problem is that when setting the third reef, one has to go on deck. Not much help.

Now, on a Pearson, it will not work too well because you will need a mast collar for the blocks at the base of the mast and then a clear path for the sheeting lines and mainsail halyard across the deck back to the cockpit.

I wish there was space for the kicker sheet back to the cockpit!

On Miss Kathleen we converted all the halyards internal to the mast and installed a conduit for the wiring.

Cheers

Dennis

1 user thanked author for this post.

David Siegel

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Ben,

I used a 3″ PVC pipe with the intention of changing to stainless. Well, the time has come and I will remove the PVC pipe. There is no risk when cutting this hole. I used West Epoxy on the PVC and it has held solid ever since.

The reason I am changing to stainless is that the PVC wears through. I am also going to change the angle of the pipe to try and reduce castling of the chain.

Water will always leak into the anchor locker, and then into the bilge. One of the oddities of the P424. Ensure that dirt and much do not block the passage to the bilge or else it will wet your toes!

I also added a hatch in the panel below the deck of the anchor locker. This is used to ensure the chain does not castle and jam against the top of the anchor locker. This is a larger hole, but also nothing to worry about.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Just completed the job of reinforcing the bow – plan to be going offshore next year.

Have a close look at the shelf and how well it is attached to the hull and anchor locker bulkhead. Mine had separated toward the front end indicating that the flexing had done some damage.

The worst part of the job was the preparation, dust and fibre all over the place! In your case, you are nearly there, adding stringers etc is just another phase of the work without the itchy dust! It will also give you peace of mind when bashing to windward.

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Rob,

I had the same problem. The starboard side was worse. I added a small column between the existing beam and keel after jacking up the crossbeam. This solved the problem.

On close inspections you will see that the cabin sole is only attached to the hull via the built-in supports.

I tried adding a piece of wood between the stringer on the hull and the cabin sole, which was quite a tight fit, but seemed to loosen up over time, or hull movement.

Best not add a support to the hull.

I can post a photo if you need more info.

Regards

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Just been through this process but slightly different.

The removal of liner, sanding and grinding is all the same. Very messy!

1) I noticed that the shelves had both broken away from hull toward the bow.
2) Removed shelving as I was going to stiffen from the bunk and upwards of the shelf but since reading that the shelf is ‘structural’, it was probably best to leave it attached to the hull
3) Put the shelf back with quadraxial fabric above and below the hull attachment. Added a bracket between the shelf and anchor locker
4) Followed Bill Shaw’s advice but chose foam core in five sections rather than a single balsa panel.
5) Added vertical strips (4 off) to form box sections. Used 600gsm quadraxial fabric
6) Glued in 12mm foam core between the strips.
7) Covered everything with two layers of quadraxial 600gsm fabric
8) Re-lined with vinyl

Looking forward to a test run.

Definitely not on my list of to-do-again jobs!

Cheers

Dennis

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[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Rich,

Apologies for the late reply.

I tried to dig out all the rotten wood between the tabbings which were attached to the hull with the plan of inserting new wood and using the existing tabbings for strength. It was very difficult digging out the old wood with the long tabs all the way to the hull and on hindsight, I would retain some of the tab it as it can be used to hold the new bulkhead pieces in place. I used a Black & Decker B/DKA900E powerfile belt sander to clear the old wood.

I did not replace the entire bulkhead. Just removed the rotten area and replaced with two pieces of 9mm marine ply. Any modern marine ply would be better and stronger than the plywood used. If I recall, the 9mm sheets were staggered (bulkhead side) and I bolted them to the existing bulkhead. Did this between the existing tabbings and the two 9mm sheets as well

Thereafter it was a matter of tabbing in the new pieces and fairing off. I also sealed off the top so that any water that does spill from the overflow pipe (should it not go to the deck) would not penetrate the new bulkhead.

Note that the bulkhead does not go hard against the hull. Use a piece of foam to provide a spacing.

You will also have to to open up the cupboard in the forepeak to add the tabbing to the “front” of the bulkhead.

The fairing off is because I added a new piece of veneer over the whole works.

I have some photo’s tucked away and will dig around and send then to you.

Regards

[Miss Kathleen]

A friend who moored (past tense) in our marina went aground and lost his yacht this weekend. One item that has emerged is the cost of salvage. I have been told that the $28,000 that he spent trying to salvage the vessel is not covered by insurance.
With all the rules and regulations he will no doubt have to get the remains cleared away. Not sure of the cost.

For those who do have insurance, is salvage covered?

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

All,

Bad link in earlier post.

http://klacko.ca/

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

All,

Eventually found the link;

Data can also be found on Klacko Marine. They have a great variety of stainless work.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Yup, Hardtops for both spray dodger and bimini are the way to go. I did mine with glass-over-ply. The bimini also carries two solar panels. Main driver for the change was the cost of canvas and the repairs.
Met a chap recently who used the same material as coke etc. bottles, just thicker. Theory is that these plastic bottles float about the oceans and are near indestructible!

The SA to NZ trip was done in a van der Stadt 34 that we built. Departed SA beginning 1997. Arrived NZ end of 1998. Awesome adventure.

Miss Kathleen is part 2 of the adventure!

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Tor,

I already have a windvane – Windpilot (Germany). Used one for the South Africa to NZ trip and just love them. For local cruising the autopilot is OK, but when going offshore the windvane rules – and the dinghy will have to go on deck.

Thanks for the pics – and now I can see more detail i.e. extensions and supports etc. Still like the wide spread of your davits. Uncluttered is a definite!

The existing davits can lift the dinghy with motor but the pushpit aft rail does not provide a level of confidence, especially if I want a gate.

These are the first pics I have seen of your hard bimini. Looks good.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Thanks all for the comments.

My current davits are based on the same design as forespar. I like the one’s on Silverheels as they are spaced further apart (in line with the pushpit sides) and look neat.

Tor, I did not realize that your davits had gone through so many iterations to get almost-there. The reason I liked them from the photo was they appeared ‘uncluttered’. I still think they look good, and with a bit more engineering (height, strength as per your comments) could work out OK.

The existing davits had a bar across for a solar panel but one had to be a contortionist to get under and through when boarding from the stern. Now removed as the wind vane will have preference.

Will have to think on it for a while as there are a number of other jobs that have been on the list.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Rich,

No problem.

I have to consider the track system as well.

Thanks

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Thanks for the input. Been offline whilst travelling.

Use – Ocean cruising. Plan is to head north from New Zealand and cruise the Pacific going via the Line Islands, Hawaii, US and then …..

I think our existing main is the original, and has little shape left. Genoa and mizzen are new. Mizzen is loose footed. As mentioned above, that is what the sail maker went with.

The probe for a new main was based on some folk getting sails from fareastsail.com. Sail for a P424 is $2800, and special price of $1500.

Rich,
What is the deal on the second hand sail? That is if you don’t mind packing to NZ at my cost.

Cheers

Dennis

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