[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Quent,

MeCan looks interesting.

Another option that I am considering is to interface the engine data to an Arduino. There are some interesting touch screen displays from 4D Systems that tie into the Arduino. The Arduino has quite a few analogue and digital IO.

I have visions of using the Arduino to measure a few other things i.e.
Gearbox temp.
Fridge Temp (& control) – the current thermostat is pretty rough.
etc etc

There is a chap out there who has developed a smart alternator regulator based on the Arduino (I have acquired one). He is at present developing a CAN system that will tie a MPPT controller (Solar panels) into the system. Link below.

http://smartbms.blogspot.co.nz/

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi All,

I was googling about looking at instruments as I was considering having a separate rev counter in the instrument pod above the bridge deck when the following popped up;

http://new-eagle-1364322313020.hostedbywebstore.com/Veecan-Color-Display-Engine-Software/dp/B00CEYJHYK

This instrument is programmable with a variety of interfaces and looks pretty good. Only problem is that the rev counter input is NOT from the usual terminal on the alternator. It can probably be configured via one of the analogue inputs. All in all it looks pretty good.

Rich,

I have often considered adding a solenoid to kill the engine. I like the idea of only having only the “start” and “stop” in a panel close to the wheel.

This will result in reconsidering the planned panel I was working on. During this process I did consider placing all the engine instruments in the pod above the bridgedeck but the task of stripping the engine control panel was daunting. The current setup on the Volvo engine is a single plug for the engine control panel.

Back to the drawing board!

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi All,

I have found that having the instruments and ignition key in one place and the engine kill control in another position (cockpit sole) a real pain.

We are going through a cockpit cleanup and removing poorly located equipment, and closing up the holes prior to a repaint of the decks & cockpit. There are two projects underway;

1) Relocate the engine instruments
2) Relocate the sailing instruments

Engine Controls – I have made a new box with lid that will be located to the right of the helm which will be at seat level. This means that the controls will be above the cockpit flood level, and will incorporate the engine kill control (moving from position of the cockpit sole). It will also be easily viewable.

Instrument Pod – I have made a instrument pod that fits above the garage of the sliding hatch. The front will be 5mm black plexiglass on which the instruments will be mounted.

Both projects are still a WIP.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117161376876600674340/albums/6072018607925958449

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

We did not really realise how the hull had degraded over the years. I guess that falls in the category of “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”!

My wife was keen to have the deck done but the budget was already bust! The cost of the deck is approximately twice that of the topsides.

It is very tempting to do a cut & polish on the deck so as to complement the topsides, but this will create other problems when we do a roll & tip on the deck – also planned for this year. Fortunately most of the deck is made up of non-skid zones, so this reduces the need to get a “gloss like” finish (in theory).

Staysail – the rigger only fitted the mast end. I have yet to make up the fitting for the deck. Noting some of the comments in the forum, this area (anchor locker) will be beefed up.

We always had a pumping mast problem when the wind picked up – may be due to rigging tension or flapping halyards, anyway, the running backstays will solve this.

We had the caprails and rubbing strake sanded back with plans to apply oil. The debate on oil/varnish is never ending, and whilst I was away on a business trip my dear wife applied some varnish because it looks good. As a result she has now been afforded the responsibility of maintaining these items!

We used a product called Uroxsys. It is a tough product that has since been taken over by one of the larger paint companies, with a price to suit.
We used this to varnish the interior after taking it down to wood – mainly to get rid of the red tinge that been applied in the past.

Dan – I will advise on the hull number when I dig it up.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Thanks all for the advice and info. Very much along with my thoughts.

I have running backstays on the mizzen, but never figured that would be able to adjust the mast by much.

Been in touch with the rigger and advised to leave it as it was.

Good point on the fact that the mast is keel stepped and with the hole in the deck there is not much chance of moving the mast by much, however, the rigger did replace the keel step as the old one was metal and badly corroded.

Thanks again.

Regards

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Thanks all for your advice.

My thoughts were to add a half-moon piece to the bottom, and was inspired by the pics in the link below where I saw a larger than normal rudder on the P424. Admittedly it is a sloop version.

http://www.devalk.nl/en/yachtbrokerage/350137/PEARSON-424.html

Looking at this it would be a project that definitely falls into the ‘hard basket’.

At this point I have enough on my hands with the hard dodger and bimini rebuild.

Other plans when she is on the hard is to replace some skin fittings and look at removing a few that are not needed.

Another option is to install a PSS shaft seal.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Thanks Guys,

Since it will be difficult to bond with the deck so that it appears a natural extension – the dodger will be removable. The fixing details are being worked out at present. It was also pointed out by locals that if I sold and the new owner did not like a hard dodger – it can be removed.

I did consider moving the mainsheet track to the top of the dodger, but the beefing-up issues were not worth it. May even install a flexible solar panel on top.

Trucking – no options when wanting to get away from NZ for the Med/Europe. We have to sail! These are long long term plans.

Robert – I will measure up the templates and provide the details once I have done the roof.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Tor,

Just been through the pain of ‘lightening’ the interior teak.

Only way to get rid of the stain or whatever was used is to apply heat with a heat gun to get the old varnish to bubble away, then scraped and sanded. Took all of 10 weeks of weekends and a few long weekends to get it done.

A lot of work, but it proved to be worthwhile. One would not believe how much teak there is in a Pearson.

It was during this period that I had to repair the port bulkhead which resulted in laying up another sheet of veneer on the bulkhead. Once varnished I could not see any difference in colour.

We used Uroxsys which is a marine aliphatic gloss. It is now sold under International.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Tor,

Thanks. I figured it would get you thinking about that 6 year old project!

Added another few pics. The basic framework is complete and the chicken-coop, as my wife calls it, is now in the garage. One does not realize just how wide the Pearson is! There is enough space for a heli-pad!

Now I get on with bonding it all together and adding a roof etc.

This is the year for ‘outside jobs’. We stripped the old varnish inside down to teak and varnished. Looks a treat. The bimini is next on the list – Once the hard dodger is complete!

My plan is to install two boom gallows. One will go up through all the stays and just behind the mizzen, and the other will be at the stern. The plan is to have a mizzen sail track along this stern gallows. Thereafter the bimini top will support the solar panels. Also working on the idea of a solid bimini.
At least it will keep its shape.
I will use mast steps to get to the mizzen at the mast. Plans are for a stack-pack – so all I need is access to the line that closes the zipper.

The mizzen sail track on the gallows will free up the pushpit and I will be able to open up that area for better access.
Ideas for having a fold out section at the stern at seat level for a boarding platform is bubbling in the background. The Pearson transom is quite thin, so anything stronger than what is there will be a bonus!

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Bob,

Good point. The vents are currently located in the coaming and I was thinking of moving the outlet to the anchor locker.

On second thoughts your option returning the outlet to the bilge, maybe with a siphon break, will be a better idea, and simplet to install.

Anything is better than overflow water at the bottom of lockers, over clothes, or into the bulkheads.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Thanks for the responses and advice.

This weekend is the first long weekend when summer kicks off in New Zealand and most yachties head off for three days of sailing in the hauraki Gulf.

In the meantime I will have three days to sort this out.

Rich, I like the idea of sistering in the new plywood. I had some sheets of marine ply that were on the plan list for a hard dodger, but that will have to wait.

The repair job is formulating, and with the tidbits of good advice my approach will be along the following lines.

I am going to try and keep the existing fibreglass hull tabs as they are well bonded to the hull and I would rely on them rather than adding more glasswork to replace them. I will try and insert the new ply between them.

The current bulkhead is 20mm thick, and I will strip it back leaving a piece that is 10mm thick for about 6 inches or more. This will form the base for a scarf joint.

The first piece of 9mm marine ply will be inserted between the hull and butted against the bulkhead.
The second piece of 9mm ply will then be inserted between the tabbing on the hull and overlap the first joint to complete the scarf joint on the existing bulkhead.

Tor, On the inside of the forward cabinet, running the length of the joint plus, the overlapping strip – 6 inches wide – will complete the joint.
Since I will be replacing the teak veneer, a few fasterners through the joint and hull tabs will do the rest.

That is the plan, and adjustments will no doubt follow.

The chainplate, on first inspection looks good – no pit corrosion. Need to check for cracks. It may just be better to replace them with longer ones – next weekend!

Will post pics later.

Thanks All

Regards

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Ken,

Thanks.

Just as a matter of interest, replacing the bulkhead is not an option – it is wider than the companionway.

All good advice, and my course of action will be very much as you have described. The “pins” will not be required as I will cover the joint from the inside of the forepeak locker with a wide strip of hard wood.

When all the structural work is complete I plan to cover the bulkhead with “thin-ply”. Basically a teak veneer bonded to a thin backing that comes in sheet sizes of 2400x1200mm – just enough to cover both sides.

Regards

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Phil,

Amazing similarity between our boats floor support. I will get some additional photo’s showing more of what I did.

Interestingly though, I jammed in some supports in the vicinity of the bunk sides only to find that they dislodged, impying that the floor “moves” when under sail.

I need to address the port side as there is some sag in that area. Another future project.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

An update on the rudder shaft bush, and after having spent nearly two days living in the aft lazarette, I am pleased that this job is complete, well almost.

In the earlier link I have included a photo of the new rudder bush. The new bush sits on a bed of epoxy to keep the bush aligned with the shaft. The old rudder bush is located beneath the new block/bush. This has resulted in removing the play in the rudder shaft.

A few shims have sorted the AP tiller arm, and all the slop is gone. The only problem is that due to the position of the Raymarine AP, the AP drive rod is not tangential to the AP tiller. A longer tiller arm will probably sort the problem, and also reduce the driving load of the AP. This is still a WIP.

Cheers

Dennis

[Miss Kathleen]

Hi Quent,

Thanks. Found your article (no photo’s), and was a good read. I also considered adding some extra plate to the existing quadrant but discounted it. Better to have two separate drive attachments (steering quadrant and AP tiller).

Seeing the rudder flanges in the link you provided would be an optimum solution, and something I will consider.

My first concern is to get the bush sorted, and in the short term an additional Delrin block around the shaft, with the original bush beneath will have to suffice until I can get those parts.

Thereafter I will sort the AP. Definitely need to get the tiller located further down the shaft and off the square drive that is reserved (and hopefully never needed) for the emergency tiller.

The original AP is a chain drive, and all the parts are there. It does work – in a fashion, and is very tricky to set. Possibly a good backup, but I am going to fit a Windpilot windvane – my preferred choice of self-steering.

Cheers

Dennis

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