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Hi Evan,Update info for Miss Kathleen.Miss Kathleen
Hull #57
Volvo MD31A – 65HP
Ketch
-USCG – none
Dennis & Jenny Bezuidenhout
dennisbez@gmail.com
Auckland, New Zealand
Bayswater Marina
Purchased July 2012
Variations – Added inner forestay, hard spray dodger, hard bimini, swim platform, rebuilt and moved electrical panel, extended locker above engine.CheersDennisHi Ben,Below the standard chain locker – I did not do anything, and an area that needs some attention. Be careful when positioning the hatch so that the lid can open and remain open during the winching process. I have one hand on a remote whilst the other knocks the chain down.The choice of winch can be a challenge. I did consider mounting a vertical winch behind the locker but the Captain did not want any pipes etc in the forward cabin. One of the reasons I chose the horizontal winch was that the chain rolls off the back of the gypsy thus effectively moving the drop down point further aft, and the horizontal winch has the facility for rope winching. A facility of the Maxwell winch is that the standard chain gypsy can handle rope and chain whilst the other side does rope only (Great for winching oneself up the mast with a wifi remote LOL!. Just a whacky you-tube moment!Another option that I have been toying with is adding a stainless bash plate beneath the pipe in the chain locker so that the chain falls further aft. This may also reduce castling directly beneath the pipe.Whilst messing around in the locker – check that the water can drain out the chain locker (goes to the bilge so I believe). All the crud etc that comes up with the chain goes to the bottom of the locker where it builds up and blocks the drainage to the bilge. If this happens water can enter the forward cabin through the access hatch in the forepeak.I do have a washdown facility up front for washing the chain off which is a help.I had to add a thick aluminium plate below the winch as the deck is not strong in that area.There are a number of P424 windlass mounting options, and a search, or a look at the projects page, will also provide some ideas.Hope this helps.CheersDennisI had the same issues.
PO owner, during the trip across the Caribbean, had to push the bearing back into place and added a hose clamp to prevent it from rising up. The problem that then developed was that rust from the hose clamp caused the bearing to seize onto the shaft and wear a larger hole in the wooden beam. This also resulted in the autopilot drive arm becoming sloppy.
Solution – bored a hole in a large piece of plastic and bolted this over the original bearing (after freeing it from the shaft). Just removed the quadrant and slipped the new bearing block into place. Have not had any issues since and is as solid as a rock!
Cheers
Dennis
Attachments:
Rudder-Shaft.jpg
Rudder-Shaft-Compl-2.jpg
Attached is a pic of the anchor locker. The hatch is watertight, and once open, allows me to knock the chain around to prevent castling.
The main advantage is that it is all done from the bow whilst raising the anchor.
I have also fitted an auto-anchor that allows me to lower the anchor from the cockpit, and also monitor the length of chain deployed. The Maxwell winch comes fitted with a magnet in the gypsey and a hole for the sensor.
It is possible that if I change the angle of the tube that the chain can fall further back which may eliminate castling – future project.
Regards
Dennis
Attachments:
20170105_183855.jpg
Have not had any issues with my new 25Kg Rocna, and would be reluctant to drill holes to try and make it ‘better’. The Rocna sets every time, and have not dragged or broken free requiring resetting.
Cheers
Dennis
Installed a hatch as in the pic in the locker above the chain. Waterproof, quick access, and the castle’d chain gets knocked down as it comes in. Best mod to date!
Cheers
Dennis
Attachments:
hatch.jpg
And now you can add some decent backing pads for the new fittings….
Always surprised me that these were never installed on the original installation.
Replaced all mine last year. Place a plug (wood or plastic) with a central hole in the skin fitting and then use a hole saw to cut through the mushroom head. Thereafter the fitting pulls out.
Decided to go plastic as the bronze one had been in for 35 years.
Cheers
Dennis
Side decks on Miss Kathleen are wood cored – at least in the area of the stanchions. Revamped a stanchion base earlier this year by removing wet wood and filling the area with epoxy.
Shocking that the holes for the stanchion base are not pre-filled with epoxy for sealing. The original builders just drilled holes through the deck and used silicon as a sealant.
Cheers
Dennis
In time to come the large black ‘thing’ – which is a speaker – will be removed.
The panel is overdue for an upgrade. Would like to have a portlight there.
Cheers
Dennis
Had the same problem. Seems the supports for the floor and water tanks kind-of float.
I jacked up the floor and added a short column in front of the mast. Tried adding a wedge between the floor and the hull but the wedge dislodged.
All in all the short column solved the problem.
IDYLL OURS, when in Auckland, discussed the issue.
I like the idea of a PVC post rather than wood, especially since water from the anchor locker drains past this point.
Cheers
Dennis
Hi Dave,
Love to know the details.
I only have two – anyone out there who have any and wish to part with them?
Regards
Dennis
Hi All,
Some great stories out there. I am glad I found it.
Just had the dreaded diesel bug removed from my tank. Probably have to remove the tank in the near future due to some soft Aluminium bits at the bottom edges. When I do that I will have a small sump & valve fitted so as to drain off any water. I would add a valve to the bottom right now if I knew the integrity of the tank was good.
Back to the valve – and had I not found it, bleeding the air out could have led to a myriad of jobs as Charlie had in solving the problem.
I like the idea of relocating it, but I do have a manual valve close to dual Racor filters. A set of valves allows selection of filter unit.Cheers
Dennis
