[petedd]

Thanks to all for the feedback. I will keep you informed.

The tank came out today. Much lighter than I expects and it went right
through the c-way, but just barely. The wood of the cradle was
saturated and smelled of diesel. Got most of the cradle removed today
and measured for alternate tank positions so I can put my
generator/scuba unit and batteries where the tank used to be.

Pete

dave jones wrote:

Hi Pete,

If you do decide to change engines, I would be delighted to buy the
entire exhaust manifold assembly as mine is leaking. Keep us updated.

Thanks,

Dave & Pat
Doris E. #178

Chuck Ruble wrote:

Pete, think of it as insurance (we all complain about the price but
deep down know what is is there for). A re-power will give you peace
of mind. You may recover some of the funds when you sell the boat, a
quicker sale more likely. A re-build on a marine engine while
straight forward isn’t the same as an over the road rebuild. The guy
that has been rebuilding Detroit Diesel 871’s for a living could do
it with his eyes closed and probably has a thousand under his belt.
A W58 might be the first one your shop has seen, not so say it won’t
be right but how will you really know?

I rebuilt my W60 for the experience. I’ll probably re-power with a
4JH4E soon and sell the W60 as is. For trips around the bay Winona
does just fine and my towing insurance backs her up. Off shore to
distant anchorages, I don’t want to have to be concerned about it.
If it’s running and it does what you want it to do, keep her clean,
feed fresh fuel and change the oil. Check the valves and service the
injectors. Run it till it stops, it might very well prove to be like
the cat you thought was going to pass on at 15 and now at 20 is still
filling the litter box (and running up a few vet bills).

Chuck

On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 7:15 AM, Robert Fine <
> wrote:

Pete,

What it boils down to is …

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[petedd]

Patrick,

What material did you end up using?

Pete

Patrick Walters wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion!

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[petedd]

Ahhhh wise one! Now that makes sense. I will have to try that first
tomorrow!

Thanks,

Pete

Chuck Ruble wrote:

Pete, it shouldn’t need to be removed to get the tank out. I couldn’t
get the fill fitting off the tank so I cut it with a hack saw. The
tank will drop down and slide under the brace when the stern end is
tipped up. It took a few tries but it slid right out. I was looking
at doing the same thing but was fed this same information and it
turned out to be right.

Chuck

On Fri, Nov 27, 2009 at 9:12 PM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

Rich, (anyone else in the Pearson group can also comment on this.
Thanks!)

I am in the middle of pulling my fuel tank and wanted to ask you
for some clarification of how you removed the front support piece
to create vertical clearance.

Did you just pass a sawzall under the carriage horizontally to cut
our the screws? Or how exactly did you do it?

Thanks,

Pete

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[petedd]

Tranny and it is perfectly clean inside.

quent wrote:

Well done! Is the heat exchanger on the port side (as installed) that
is plumbed between the raw water pump and the engine heat exchanger
for the engine oil or the transmission? Interesting modification. I’ll
bet you find some debris in there.
Quent

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[petedd]

Flexible again comes with age too…just not in all the same places

John Stevenson wrote:

Oh to be young, thin and flexible again

On Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 8:28 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:

In the wine celler!
Q

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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[petedd]

Pictures of the engine pulling (on land), see the crane we made…

https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/Regina-Oceani-Engine

Robert Fine wrote:

Hey, Pete,

You’re very welcome – let me know – I might want one. More than
that, maybe you and the other Sailor’s Solutions guys can get some
kind of an import deal…

Bob

On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 2:02 PM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

Bob,

Thanks! The Patay A2379 from Pump International Ltd is just what
I am looking for. We’ll see if they ship to the US or have a
distributor here.

Pete

Robert Fine wrote:

Hi Pete!

Try these: http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=150506#
http://www.sailinginfo4all.co.uk/maintenance/pump_international.htm

Bob

On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:55 AM, Pete Dubler
<
>>
wrote:

I have my engine out (W58) and am making a few changes such as
putting an oil change hand pump up front where it is easy
to work
with. The PO put a Jasco hand bilge pump on the engine and it
leaks a lot of oil. I would sure like to find a brass hand
pump
that is up to the task. The ones on the Beta Marine
engines look
great, but I can’t find one anywhere. Any recommendations?

PS: Any one have an old W58 for parts? I’d love to have
more spares.

Pete

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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[petedd]

Bob,

Thanks! The Patay A2379 from Pump International Ltd is just what I am
looking for. We’ll see if they ship to the US or have a distributor here.

Pete

Robert Fine wrote:

Hi Pete!

Try these: http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=150506#
http://www.sailinginfo4all.co.uk/maintenance/pump_international.htm

Bob

On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:55 AM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

I have my engine out (W58) and am making a few changes such as
putting an oil change hand pump up front where it is easy to work
with. The PO put a Jasco hand bilge pump on the engine and it
leaks a lot of oil. I would sure like to find a brass hand pump
that is up to the task. The ones on the Beta Marine engines look
great, but I can’t find one anywhere. Any recommendations?

PS: Any one have an old W58 for parts? I’d love to have more spares.

Pete

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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[petedd]

I have my engine out (W58) and am making a few changes such as putting
an oil change hand pump up front where it is easy to work with. The PO
put a Jasco hand bilge pump on the engine and it leaks a lot of oil. I
would sure like to find a brass hand pump that is up to the task. The
ones on the Beta Marine engines look great, but I can’t find one
anywhere. Any recommendations?

PS: Any one have an old W58 for parts? I’d love to have more spares.

Pete

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[petedd]

NICE! table!

Pete

wrote:

Quote:

Bob
the EU-2000 won’t fit under my cockpit table. I suppose I could make
a new table. I have engine-driven refrigeration however.

Rich

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[petedd]

Thanks John. When I clean out the engine pan next weekend, I will go
digging for the lost passage. Lots of crud down there indeed. I had
some belts go into stick and shred mode once and there is lots of rubber
dust everywhere in there. I am looking forward to cleaning it out and
painting it Bilgekote white.

Pete

John Stevenson wrote:

Quote:

Pete,
I thought one of my repower pictures would show the water passage
under the engine pan, but I guess I never took a picture from behind
the engine pan. As Rich said it is not a big passage. I know when
the Westerbecke was pulled there was a ton of dirt and debris around
the passage. Water still got through, but it did pool up behind the
engine pan.
If you say you don’t have a passage under the pan, have you checked to
see if it is just covered by 25 years of crud? It really shouldn’t
accumulate water under the engine unless you have a gusher, but then
your pan may not be anything like the one I had on hull #2. Again I
never had water accumulate under the engine (other than engine
liquids) with a persistent rudder post leak for over a year before the
engine pan was re-built and re-glassed.

On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 10:03 AM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

Speaking of British engines… did you know that British engines
STILL don’t have microprocessors (computers) controlling them?
Reason: the Brits have not yet figured out how to make a computer
leak oil…

And yes, I have been studying your photos. Thanks.

I am thinking of fashioning a separate drip pan for the engine and
allowing the aft water to pass under it to the main bilge. I
like to hat the oilsorb sheet stay dry (from water and oil…) To
me that is the sign of a well-maintained engine space.

Pete

wrote:

I’ve since cut out most of my engine pan as part of a repower.
The engine pan was open at the bottom and had a place for
water to pool behind the strut mount and behind the pan.
Here’s a photo of the old pan with modified side pieces to
mount my new engine.

http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/engPan.JPG

There was a small space under the aft section of the pan that
allowed some water to escape under the engine, but a lot of
water still pooled under there. After taking this photo I
cut out the back of the pan. It simply isn’t needed and
interfered with the new engine.

After repowering, I still put oilsorb sheets under the engine
but they come out mostly clean at the end of the season. The
old W60 was a nice engine but like most British engines it
leaked like a sieve.

Regards
Rich

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[petedd]

Thanks Norris. Perhaps mine is plugged up as well. Still think I
should have an isolated drip pan under the engine (but let the aft water
pass to the main bilge)

norris larson wrote:

Quote:

On our boat, hull #206 (or is it 203), there are holes in the bvrace
that crosses twarthwise cross “pan” under the engine. There are holes
which I peiodically have to clean out, usually with my fingers.

Norris Larson on /Easy Reach/

— On *Mon, 11/16/09, John Stevenson /<>/* wrote:

<.. snip>

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[petedd]

thanks Linus

Linus Martinez wrote:

Quote:

Pete

Rather than try to fit a pan under the new engine I built a dam
between the stringers on the forward end of the compartment. It is
high enough to trap an oil spill but not high enough to wet the engine
if it fills with water. I have to sponge it out when I have a leak at
the back of the boat. I haven’t had to do that in a while. The leak
that I had a time figuring out was the hinges on the sail lockers.
All of them were leaking a little and I would have to sponge it out
after a rain. The great thing about a new engine is all that is in
there is water. The pan is coated with pigmented epoxy so it can be
cleaned easily.

Linus

*<.. snip>

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[petedd]

Speaking of British engines… did you know that British engines STILL
don’t have microprocessors (computers) controlling them? Reason: the
Brits have not yet figured out how to make a computer leak oil…

And yes, I have been studying your photos. Thanks.

I am thinking of fashioning a separate drip pan for the engine and
allowing the aft water to pass under it to the main bilge. I like to
hat the oilsorb sheet stay dry (from water and oil…) To me that is
the sign of a well-maintained engine space.

Pete

wrote:

Quote:

I’ve since cut out most of my engine pan as part of a repower. The
engine pan was open at the bottom and had a place for water to pool
behind the strut mount and behind the pan. Here’s a photo of the old
pan with modified side pieces to mount my new engine.

http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/engPan.JPG

There was a small space under the aft section of the pan that allowed
some water to escape under the engine, but a lot of water still pooled
under there. After taking this photo I cut out the back of the pan.
It simply isn’t needed and interfered with the new engine.

After repowering, I still put oilsorb sheets under the engine but they
come out mostly clean at the end of the season. The old W60 was a
nice engine but like most British engines it leaked like a sieve.

Regards
Rich

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[petedd]

Speaking of British engines… did you know that British engines STILL
don’t have microprocessors (computers) controlling them? Reason: the
Brits have not yet figured out how to make a computer leak oil…

And yes, I have been studying your photos. Thanks.

I am thinking of fashioning a separate drip pan for the engine and
allowing the aft water to pass under it to the main bilge. I like to
hat the oilsorb sheet stay dry (from water and oil…) To me that is
the sign of a well-maintained engine space.

Pete

wrote:

Quote:

I’ve since cut out most of my engine pan as part of a repower. The
engine pan was open at the bottom and had a place for water to pool
behind the strut mount and behind the pan. Here’s a photo of the old
pan with modified side pieces to mount my new engine.

http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/engPan.JPG

There was a small space under the aft section of the pan that allowed
some water to escape under the engine, but a lot of water still pooled
under there. After taking this photo I cut out the back of the pan.
It simply isn’t needed and interfered with the new engine.

After repowering, I still put oilsorb sheets under the engine but they
come out mostly clean at the end of the season. The old W60 was a
nice engine but like most British engines it leaked like a sieve.

Regards
Rich

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[petedd]

Thanks John. I guess I need to sort this out.

John Stevenson wrote:

Pete,
That’s not the way my bilge works. Water from aft of the engine
compartment flows under the containment pan under the engine into the
main bilge. I know because I have had a persistent leak from the
rudder post stuffing box. Tightening or re-packing the stuffing box
will dry things up for a year or so, but then the leaks start again.
Currently my bilge pump comes on every 24-36 hours for about 30
seconds. The only water that collects in the under engine containment
pan is that from dealing with the engine water and coolant hoses.

On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 6:09 PM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

Just got my engine out today. I am a bit confused about the bilge
arrangement under the engine. Any water from the bilge aft of
the engine ends up in the separate bilge under the engine.
Shouldn’t this water flow forward to the main bilge and shouldn’t
there be a separate pan under the engine to catch engine fluid
leaks and contain them (separate from water from the aft of the boat?

Thanks,

Pete

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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com <http://www.svsarah.com>

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