[petedd]

John,

You did a great job documenting this project. Thanks.

I was wondering if others had pictures as well.

Pete

John Stevenson wrote:

Pete,
I supplied a link to the pictures of my engine box earlier in the
thread, but if you missed it here it is again.

http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htm

On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 9:37 AM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

Any pictures to share on these break-down doghouses?

Thanks,

Pete

reluctant wrote:

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were
originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the
sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and
all if it’s accumulated treasures by removing the ladder,
unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece
out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before
starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com <http://www.svsarah.com>

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[petedd]

Just got my engine out today. I am a bit confused about the bilge
arrangement under the engine. Any water from the bilge aft of the
engine ends up in the separate bilge under the engine. Shouldn’t this
water flow forward to the main bilge and shouldn’t there be a separate
pan under the engine to catch engine fluid leaks and contain them
(separate from water from the aft of the boat?

Thanks,

Pete

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[petedd]

Any pictures to share on these break-down doghouses?

Thanks,

Pete

reluctant wrote:

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were
originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to
the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if
it’s accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the
latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking
the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

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[petedd]

Have you considered adding a water sensor/alarm to your racor(s)?

Alan wrote:

About 150 miles out of Bermuda, we could not get the engine started
(W58). We had to hand sterr the rest of the way to converve power. We
sailed into the town cut in the dark with a heavy wind and rain.
After we replaced all the filters and removed aas much water as could,
We could could still not get the engine started. Ran the batteries
down trying. Had to take them ashore to get them charged. several times.
Finialy I called in a mechanic. We changed the injectors and it
started right up. The old ones were destoyed. Lucky I had a spare set.
They dont rebuild injectors in Bermuda so I sent them back to the states.
Lesson # 1 Carry spare injectors.
Lesson # 2 see 1 above
Lesson # 3 Don’t get water in tanks.
Lesson # 4 Check racor more often when at sea or when sailing.

alan
Unabated

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[petedd]

Thanks Chuck

Chuck Ruble wrote:

Rudy, Florida Marine Tank (in North Carolina) has an updated CAD
drawing of the 424 tank. It includes two access plates, the pick up
relocated so it can be removed with out pulling the tank. The tank is
4 gallons smaller to make it easier to get in. I may have posted the
drawing on the 424 org page… if not I can send you a copy.

Go to the 424 site and in the forum section do a search on fuel tank,
there were a number of messages exchanged on this already.

Chuck

On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 10:30 PM, <
> wrote:

If there is any additional information on pulling the W-58 and
replacing the fuel tank, I would love to see it. I need to
replace the fuel tank and am about to start this project.

Rudy
Nakedmoon

In a message dated 11/8/2009 9:53:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:

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[petedd]

Thanks Rich!

wrote:

Quote:

Pete
I could probably add a few comments to what’s posted on my notes.

You can expect to damage one or more engine mounts when pulling the
engine. The rubber gets soft when it ages. I suggest planning on
replacing all four. You’ll probably also find that the engine pan
flange has sagged. There are a couple of ways to fix this. The top
flange has stringers glassed in on each side of the pan. If these
were in contact with the underside of the flange I don’t think it
would sag. You could try and insert some shims. I like the steel
angle-iron flange I used. Since the nuts are welded to the underside
it makes replacing the mounts pretty simple. No nuts to hold on the
underside.

Just because Westerbeke used dark red paint is no reason to stick with
the same color. A lighter color paint brightens the engine room and
makes working on the engine easier. I used Caterpillar yellow.

While you have the fuel tank out, its easier to reach the underside of
the pedestal for service.

Rich

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[petedd]

I read Rich’s and Jack’s pages on their repowering projects. Any other
advice out there on pulling the W-58 engine out (and the fuel tank)?

Thanks,

Pete

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[petedd]

She is here in Colorado. Had a great day working on her today.

Pete

Linus Martinez wrote:

Quote:

Pete

Did you truck the boat home or are you in Oriental?

Linus

*<.. snip>

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[petedd]

Thanks John.

From this I understand that the part of the strong track that is below
the original gate is not in the track like the rest of the strong
track. Is that correct?

Since I have the mast down right now for repainting, etc, I wonder if I
could get them to make the strong track to run in the original track
from top to bottom and if I could insert the strong track from the head
of the mast. What do you think? (I’ll go study it on the mast today).

Pete

John Stevenson wrote:

Pete,
Yes, I had the Strong Track installed in 2003 and It really makes the
raising and lowering the mainsail much easier. I have a pretty heavy
mainsail, but I can normally haul it to within a few feet of the
masthead without the winch. I did have a problem last winter, when it
appears the bottom of the track was not fully secured around the old
track gate and pulled loose. Not a problem with the Strong Track,
just the installation, and the installation held for two ocean crossings.

http://www.svsarah.com/Sailing/ewBahamasStrongTrack.htm
This is a link to a description of the problem.

John

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[petedd]

Anyone put in a Strong Track system on their mainsail? I have a friend
who swears by his and I am about to put one on mine.

Pete

Silver Heels wrote:

Quote:

*Hi Lee,*
**
*I’m sure you’ll get good sails from Mack, but you are mistaken
to assume that all “Chinese” sails are inferior. Some of the top lofts
in Hong Kong have been providing first rate sails to boaters for 50
years or more, and their craftsmanship is as good as (or better
than) any in the world. They are very specific about what materials
they’re using, and they’ll use something else if you specify it.
Service? At least one of the lofts – Lee Sails, I think, but I’d have
to check my notes to be sure – sends a regional rep to your US-based
boat with your new suit of sails to help install and check them for
fit, etc, and then corrects any imperfections. You can call him back
if there are problems later, or call their US office. (Yes, they speak
English.) They’re in business for the long term and I’ve never heard
anything but praise since the 1960’s. Check the SSCA blog for “Hong
Kong sails”. Nothing but praise, and lots of it. *
****
*Do I prefer to buy American? Yes, when it’s not too too financially
painful. But I’m a cruising sailor and can’t afford to pay someone $75
or more per hour to sew, not when there’s a craftsman just an email
away with a lifetime of experience who sews beautifully for $75 per
day (actually, it’s probably a lot less than that). Look around your
boat and see how much of the equipment comes from abroad. All the
electronics and half the hardware, for starters. *
**
*Your choice of an American sailmaker is a good one and you’re right
to feel confident in what you’re getting, but using a reputable Hong
Kong loft at half the price is just as valid and, IMHO, a better
value. Different strokes.*
**
*Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

*

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[petedd]

Well Joe, if you ever decide to get rid of the heater, let me know…

Pete

Joseph Steiner wrote:

Quote:

Pete,
I have a Dickenson. It works well, and I turned it on just once and
made a vow to never ever need it. Spent all my time in the Bahamas and
Caribbean after that one experience with it while in Beaufort, NC.
Enjoy the beautiful waters of the Bahamas and the Grenadines….like
no other.
That’s the only lesson, advice, and recommendation I can possibly
think of.

Joe,

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[petedd]

Thanks Aaron!

Which Dickenson did you get and where did you mount it?

Pete

Aaron Lynch wrote:

Yes, I have a Dickenson.

I had Garhauer make me a mounting bracket/heat shield. That’s nice.

If I did it again I wouldn’t get the hot water loop. It’s a royal PITA to
plumb it in, and it takes a long time to produce usable water. It was also
hard to find a water pump to circulate the water that could handle heat and
also was not a monster power pig. I ended up finding a 12v magnetic pump
used in solar installs. Maybe if you were SAILING to alaska it would be
worthwhile, but the heater is so hot I rarely run it for the 6 hours needed
to make hot water.

I Tee’d off the fuel and added a fuel pump. I didn’t need to do that.
After I got it all together one day I forgot to turn off the valve and I ran
the engine. The fuel line got pressure from the engine and leaked in the
heater, making me realize I could have ditched the engine’s electric pump
and just used the heater’s to pressurize the system enough to fill the racor
or bleed the engine.

I had H & L make me a teak block like a winch pad for the chimney.

The stove is awesome. The flames in the window make it like a wood stove,
very pretty. It does blacken the headliner a bit.

It runs H.O.T. Hot!!! On high the sides glow red.

On 10/28/09 7:38 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:

Anyone have a diesel heater on your 424? (that is a heater that runs on
diesel fuel, not a heater for your diesel fuel).

What lessons, advice, recommendations do you have?

Thanks,

Pete

owner of this boat. I believe she’s in Lahaina (Maui) and I might
pay to pick her bones for spares.

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

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[petedd]

Anyone have a diesel heater on your 424? (that is a heater that runs on
diesel fuel, not a heater for your diesel fuel).

What lessons, advice, recommendations do you have?

Thanks,

Pete

owner of this boat. I believe she’s in Lahaina (Maui) and I might
pay to pick her bones for spares.

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

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[petedd]

Interesting idea. If I wanted to be office….the ABYC manual says
that the cylinders have to be over some many inches from any opening
into the boat. That would include all of the lazarettes and the
companionway.

Rich Carter wrote:

Quote:

Pete
As far as I know, this was standard. I’ve heard of at least one owner who
refitted with 20lb cylinders. This sounds like a lot of work.

Have you considered putting a table in the cockpit? There would be room in
there to stow two 6lb bottles.

Rich

Quote:

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[petedd]

Rich,

I have had a very advanced Brother labeler for many years. THis is a
bigger machine with a qwerty keyboard that cost several hundred dollars
new. It uses the TX series of tapes upto 1″ wide. I have all sorts of
tape cartridges for it including the 1/2″ white on black and neat tapes
like 1″ black on dayglo orange, and black on yellow. These tapes are
laminated and hold up very well to weather, though I find the orange
fades after a few years in the sun.

I did my whole electrical panel with these. The neat thing about the
advanced machine is that you can really control the formatting, length
of the label, etc so they all look very consistent and professional. I
was thinking about starting n online service for customized labels where
you could design your label interactively on-line and we would print and
mail them.

By the way, the TX cartridges are much larger than the newer TZ carts
and hold much more tape for about the same price. Lots of good buys on
the tape cartridges on e-bay. I have 5 or 6 cartiridges of the white
on black becasue everytime another boater seems my panel, they want some
labels of their own… $1 each plus $1 mailing for any quantity…

Pete

Rich Carter wrote:

I use my Brothers label maker for all kinds of things. Its become one of my
favorite tools. The most useful purpose is to label cables. That way I can
tell what gets wired to where. I also lable my wall-wart power supplies.
These are the AC converter boxes that seem to come with everything these
days. There seems to be no standard for plugs. It is possible to plug the
wrong adapter into the wrong appliance. If you grab the wrong one by
accident you can burn up your electronics. I label these too. I also label
storage boxes and all kinds of other stuff. I keep one at work and one at
home. I somehow lost the one at home so I went to Staples to buy a
replacement. I need one for the boat too. If the missing labeler shows up,
I’ll put it on the boat.

I’ve always wanted to make my own circuit braker labels. Today at Staples I
saw that they have white-on-black label tape. The tape requires one of
their more expensive machines, but they have one with a $35 rebate. This
makes the $50 labeler cost $15. For what the tape costs, they should give
them away. Maybe that’s the idea with the rebate. The tape runs anywhere
from $25 to $35 per roll. A roll lasts a long time, but its still
expensive. I hate the rebates, but what the heck. Now I’ll be able to tag
my breaker panel with more descriptive labels.

The tape isn’t very durable so its not suitable for outdoor applications.
For high-wear situations such as switch and breaker labels I cover the label
with clear tape to protect the lettering. It may be possible to spray the
tape with clear matt Krylon paint. I haven’t tried it yet.

Rich
BlackSheep

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