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Unlike the incandescent lights, the LEDs won’t suffer from that minor voltage loss. The drivers usually are designed to run from 10 to 30 volts, providing the same brightness. IMHO, using such heavy wire to carry only 2.5A to the lights is overkill.
Pete
On 12/30/2009 2:55 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Patrick,
I must had another senior moment, the wire in my mast in 10AWG not 12AWG. That is wire I installed. The Pearson wire from the mast terminal strip to the distribution panel is 12AWG, which was probably OK for the factory installed mast lights (all have been replaced). I had planned to replace the Pearson wire, but never got around to it. May have to try to get that done before spring.On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:20 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I sent details on the PAFog Horn seperately, you were all right on that I had the math wrong.The 2.4Amp for the Spreader lights is for both lights together, not one. Their website says ~1A @ 12V. The packaging of the actual lights says 1.2A. I plan to hook them on a single wire, so 2.4A.
We have a bimini and don’t have it up all the time. I admit those may not have been necessary and I thought about not doing them, but I decided to do it and I bought the lights so they are getting installed. Plus now I have the option to hang a disco ball from my mizzen halyard and I can angle the mizzen spreader lights to shine on it. 😉I think many of the things Pearson did in the factory were standard for the times, but would not be ok today or woudl be considered cutting corners (all manufacturers do it, I’m not picking on Pearson). I’m not re-wiring the entire boat to bring it up to ABYC standards, but I am trying to follow recognized best practices to guide anything new I’m installing. Using wiring that only allows a 3% voltage drop is what is reccomended today for marine wiring by ABYC (“Sailboat Electrics Simplified”, pg48, Don Casey). I think if you did the math on your systems you may find you’re undersized. I’m sure it’s working fine though too. I’m pulling some new wire so I want to do it “right” which for me means finding the recognized standards learning them and applying them. Plus all that research is 10% of the fun of having a boat! Th other 90% of the fun is in applying the learning to take you sailing safely to amazing places!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “John Stevenson” < ([email][/email])>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 7:33 AM
To: “Pearson 424 owners listserve” < ([email][/email])>
Subject: Re: Mast Wiring PlansPatrick,
Are you planning a Bimini for the cockpit? If so, the mizzen spreader lights may not be of that much value. Those LED spreader lights seem to draw a lot of current, not that much less than my sealed beam spreader lights on the main mast. 8AWG for the PA horn seems a bit excessive for something that normally is only used by power boaters who like to announce their arrival at the fuel dock. I would re-think whether or not to fit that device. Another thought might be how often, if ever, would you use this device when not motoring, in which case the input voltage would be about 13.8V, allowing significant voltage drop and still provide 11.5V to the device. 12AWG ought to be sufficient in that case.
All of my in-mast wire is 12AWG – TriColor (LED now, but not when originally wired), Bow Light/Foredeck Light, spreader lights. Wire from the terminal strips in the forward cabin to the distribution panel are all 12AWG as well.
That is my freely given comments, worth every penny.On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 9:42 AM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:if you use the antenna/bridge arrangement similar to the IslandTime PC product – a CAT 5 cable is all that is needed and there is no signal loss. I have mine mounted on the mizzen spreader though. I can grab wifi signals from at least 2 miles…. maybe more.
On my way down here – i was sailing smack dab in the middle of the chesepeake and I was grapping all kinds of free wifi from the western shore.
alan
unabated— On Wed, 12/30/09, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
On 12/28/2009 2:37 PM, Syringa wrote:
Patrick
Look at this linkhttp://www.strutpro.com/ on pulling Cutless bearing.
Your yard should have a tool something like this.
Don
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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I wonder if a shot of liquid nitrogen (which we all keep in our tool boxes, right? but easy enough to get from the welding supply house or borrow an applicator from a doctor or get one of the wart freezing kits at the drug store) would shrink the bearing enough for it to slide out easier?
Just a thought…
Pete
On 12/28/2009 7:21 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Pat
No, it cutless bearing. The bearing doesn’t cut the shaft, so its cutless. Here’s a good link with info.
http://www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htmRich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I can’t imagine the molecules know the difference between inside and
outside surfaces ;^)The thing is to get off any other gunk first to get the best results.
Pete
On 12/27/2009 2:16 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I wonder how it would do on the inside of the V-drive cooling jacket.
RichQuote:
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Obviously a submarine police boat. (Yellow blinking is for submarines
running at the surface… no lights required when running under water;
blue for police boats)Pete
Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:What really throws them a curve is the yellow and blue lights,
especially when they blink.Lee
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Bill,
Good to talk with you by phone.
I will ship the heavy stuff in one box and the injection lines in a
separate box to protect them. I have a commercial shipping account.
The insured shipping total is $27.65. So with the stuff below, the
total is $552.65. Let’s just call it $550.00. I have thrown in the
impeller. Check and see if the rubber is live enough use (it looked
okay to me in the packaging). Also included some new plastic clips for
the fuel lines and some extra injector washers I had.Let me know what you could offer for the injector pump and I will pick
up the extra shipping if I can include it in this shipment.Also have the fuel filter/primer pump assembly with the input and output
fuel lines (with banjo ends) for $50. Again, I will pick up the
shipping if it goes in the same shipment.Other stuff: thermostat housing, new Westerbeke original equipment
thermostat and pressure cap.Here is my address for sending the check:
Pete Dubler
8103 Bruns Drive (that’s Bruns, not Burns)
Fort Collins, CO 80525-9354cell: 970-214-3852
Happy holidays,
Pete
Bill Emberley wrote:
Quote:Pete,
Put my name on them. Give me your address and total cost and I will
send you a check.
Thanks!
Bill Emberley
SV P424 Running TabEdit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340
*<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
There are some set screws to be found under the paint and removed before
trying to pull the cutlass.Pete
Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I replaced mine about 20 years ago. I used a checkbook. The yard did
it. I watched them however to see how it was done. They used a
threaded rod run through the bearing and a piece of cast-iron pipe and
large washers to fashion a press. There are two set-screws that hold
the cuttless bearing in place, both on the port side as I recall. In
theory, if you remove both, you can press the old one out with this
arrangement. It stuck in there so they cut a grove in the old one and
tried the press again, Out it came.Hope this helps
Rich
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“Most collisions occur at closer distances than 12 miles. “
actually, ALL collisions occur at a distance of zero miles…. 😉
Pete
wrote:
Quote:Eric
I originally purchased a RADAR unit in 1986 for my 424. It may be the
same model as you presently have. I replaced it a few years back with
a JRC color RADAR/chartplotter and never regretted it. JRC makes the
guts of many of the RADAR units such as Raymarine but are less
costly. JRC stopped selling under their own name. Distributors put
them out on clearance. I bought mine for about $1300. This is the
only distributor I could find with a websearch. They want too much
money for what they have in stock. If you keep your eye out you might
find one for a little over a grand.
http://www.boatersworld.com/bm/RadarAutopilots/JRC/316300565.htmlI mounted my display in the cockpit. I put a teak mounting panel on
the binnacle guard. I’m not entirely pleased with the instrument
mount and may redo it, but it works.
http://www.richardcarter.net/Cockpit.htmlI too cruise in the Northeast. I really like having the
RADAR/chartplotter at the wheel. I have a laptop below that runs
Nobletec which does a lot better job as a chartplotter but running
below to navigate is a pain. I rarely need the RADAR but use it when
its convenient. Power consumption isn’t a big deal. The FURUNO used
a lot more power. If your budget is limited, go for an inexpenive
unit and skip the bells and whistles. Most collisions occur at closer
distances than 12 miles. Having a long-range and powerful RADAR is of
limited use. My Furuno was a better RADAR unit but it sucked down the
watts and I had to mount it below. The JRC works just fine and
doesn’t run down my batteries.Don’t forget to budget for charts. The c-map cartridges are expensive.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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Pat,
Thanks for all your great work on this!
Pete
pat noordsij wrote:
Hi Folks
Pearson424.org will be moving to a new host. – I’m working on it today
since we have an unexpected snow day. The new web hosting company has
support for mailing lists and phpBB. I don’t yet know what the
mailing list will look like but I will subscribe all current users.Sorry for the short notice. I hope it isn’t too bumpy. Should you
have questions or problems, please contact me at: or– pat
SV Doris E, p424 #178
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That was my understanding until I found that one diagram…
Chuck Ruble wrote:
Pete, I think it is a Velvet Drive unit. It is a 1:1 ratio.
On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 7:17 PM, Pete Dubler <
I guess I should modify this question… I thought the tranny was
a 71C. It is a B-W unit, but it is only about 12″ from end to
end. The data I find on the 71C shows them at around 17″. So
exactly what tranny were the W58 424’s fitted with? (my hull is 165).Thanks,
Pete
Pete Dubler wrote:
Does anyone know if the Borg-Warner Transmission installed on
the W58 424’s is a 1.00 ratio or other ration?There is no ID plate on mine.
Thanks,
Pete
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I guess I should modify this question… I thought the tranny was a
71C. It is a B-W unit, but it is only about 12″ from end to end. The
data I find on the 71C shows them at around 17″. So exactly what
tranny were the W58 424’s fitted with? (my hull is 165).Thanks,
Pete
Pete Dubler wrote:
Does anyone know if the Borg-Warner Transmission installed on the W58
424’s is a 1.00 ratio or other ration?There is no ID plate on mine.
Thanks,
Pete
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John,
I happily stand corrected. (I had some memory or researching this once
as we were designing a bow and stern light set, but I guess I was mistaken).
The height, precise color, beam dispersion, etc are not covered in the
Colregs themselves but rather in ANNEX 1:
http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/mwv/navrules/annexes/annex_1Intl.htmI had to LOL when you mentioned someone trying to go between split
anchor lights…Pete
John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Pete,
I just did a quick check on the USCG site and I can find no
specification for the height of the stern light. The only position
requirement is that it be as close to the stern as practical. Since
Tor does not believe the light on the stern rail is practical because
of the glare it provides to the helmsperson, it would seem his choice
of location conforms. Of course it should conform to the requirement
for a visible arc of 135 deg, which the original stern light installed
by Pearson on the transom does not.
I’ve considered using bow and stern anchor lights as Tor does, but I
am concerned the idiots driving through the anchorage at night might
think it was two boats and decide to go between them.On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 7:49 PM, Pete Dubler <
Tor,
Check the COLREGS. I am pretty sure that there is a height limit
and requirement regarding proximity to the transom for the stern
light.Pete
Silver Heels wrote:
*But before I go I can’t resist adding this. I installed an
LED Aqua Signal masthead tri-color + anchor light. Sealed the
old hull running lights and mounted a single port/starboard
light beneath an athwartships board just inboard of the
forward end of the bow pulpit. I put my new “deck level” stern
light _on the mizzen masthead_, rather than on the stern rail.
In my experience, the typical rail-mounted stern light often
creates a giant blind spot by reflecting and refracting off
the mist and exhaust just astern of the boat underway,
especially when motoring. As a result, the watch keeper cannot
see astern, which is not a good thing. *** *Regarding deck level anchor light blind spots, I hang one
Home Depot garden-variety solar lamp at the end of the mizzen
boom, and another one from the two genoa sheets pulled
together above the foredeck. At least one of the lights is
visible from every angle of approach, and the pair make my
boat easy for me to find at night in a crowded harbor. *
** *Have fun!*
** *Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us <http://www.SilverHeels.us>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~*
Original Message
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Tor,
Check the COLREGS. I am pretty sure that there is a height limit and
requirement regarding proximity to the transom for the stern light.Pete
Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:*But before I go I can’t resist adding this. I installed an LED Aqua
Signal masthead tri-color + anchor light. Sealed the old hull running
lights and mounted a single port/starboard light beneath an
athwartships board just inboard of the forward end of the bow
pulpit. I put my new “deck level” stern light _on the mizzen
masthead_, rather than on the stern rail. In my experience, the
typical rail-mounted stern light often creates a giant blind spot by
reflecting and refracting off the mist and exhaust just astern of the
boat underway, especially when motoring. As a result, the watch keeper
cannot see astern, which is not a good thing. *
**
*Regarding deck level anchor light blind spots, I hang one Home Depot
garden-variety solar lamp at the end of the mizzen boom, and another
one from the two genoa sheets pulled together above the foredeck. At
least one of the lights is visible from every angle of approach, and
the pair make my boat easy for me to find at night in a crowded harbor. *
**
*Have fun!*
**
*Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~*
Original Message
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Coming in at night at Sapelo Island, Ga I almost ran down a fool who was
anchored in the dead center of the channel with an anchor light, are you
ready for this… on the front of his mast. (the current was running
out lightly, so he was bow upstream). Saw the dot on the radar that
was his boat and steered around him.Anchor lights need to be “all around”. I don’t imagine there is any
harm in hanging more than one light if they are low.Pete
wrote:
Quote:“it is better to have the anchor light near deck level. “I can second that having almost been hit one night by a powerboat. He
screamed “PUT OUT AN ANCHOR LIGHT” as he zipped past at about 30kts.
He never apparently looked up.Putting a light on deck is a problem too. There are few places where
it can be hung without leaving a blind spot. I find that hanging it
from the backstay above the boom works best for me. I don’t have a
mizzen. Maybe one on each side hanging from the shrouds would work
too, but that’s twice the power drain. Then there’s where to plug it
in. I’ve resorted to a not legal battery-powered lantern from the
backstay and the legal masthead.Rich
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