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Thanks Rich. They are definitely different.
Pete
On 7/16/2013 5:35 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Photo attached
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Rich,
Pin is 1/2″ – the whole thing is not shown. It has hooks on the top for
reefing.
Everything is metal. No plastic.Pete
On 7/15/2013 7:05 AM, wrote:
Quote:I have a bit of play in my gooseneck but not what I would call unusual. I took a close look at your photo and your fitting looks a bit different. I’ll send a photo of mine as shortly. Mine has a steel pin through the mast fitting as yours (3/8″?). The gooseneck fitting is a flat plate bent over a steel bushing whereas yours looks to be plastic. My steel bushing is welded to the plate. While examining mine, I noticed cracking near the pin. If you hadn’t sent your question, I would have never noticed until it failed. I’ll send it out to a welding shop this winter. I suggest that other owners inspect theirs.My guess is that Pearson had some failures in the first few model years and redesigned the gooseneck to include a plastic bushing. This probably absorbs some of the shock load on a gybe. The plastic bushing is much larger in diameter. It may have deformed after several years of service and give some play to the fitting. A good hardware store may have a replacement.
Regards
Rich
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I can come up with a bushing of those dimensions pretty easily. Â Thanks folks
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Thanks John.
On 7/14/2013 10:46 AM, John Stevenson wrote:Pete,
I can’t see the bushing on my gooseneck without taking it apart, but I
definitely don’t have any play in the fitting. There must be a missing
bushing.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 9:38 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Let’s try one more time. The picture is attached instead of pasted…
On 7/13/2013 8:55 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
hmm… picture??
– p
Pete Dubler wrote, On 7/13/13 9:44 PM:
I am getting ready to put my rig back together and noted that the goose
neck pin (bolt) (the one with the reefing hooks) has a lot of play relative
to the bushing. The bolt is 1/2″ and the bushing it 3/4″. It this supposed
to be this loose or am I missing an insert (nylon or otherwise) here? See
picture below.Thanks,
Pete
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Let’s try one more time. The picture is attached instead of pasted…
On 7/13/2013 8:55 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
hmm… picture??
– p
Pete Dubler wrote, On 7/13/13 9:44 PM:
I am getting ready to put my rig back together and noted that the
goose neck pin (bolt) (the one with the reefing hooks) has a lot of
play relative to the bushing. The bolt is 1/2″ and the bushing it
3/4″. It this supposed to be this loose or am I missing an insert
(nylon or otherwise) here? See picture below.Thanks,
Pete
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The picture is pasted above
On 7/13/2013 8:55 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
hmm… picture??
– p
Pete Dubler wrote, On 7/13/13 9:44 PM:
I am getting ready to put my rig back together and noted that the
goose neck pin (bolt) (the one with the reefing hooks) has a lot of
play relative to the bushing. The bolt is 1/2″ and the bushing it
3/4″. It this supposed to be this loose or am I missing an insert
(nylon or otherwise) here? See picture below.Thanks,
Pete
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Got it.
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No disagreements. Restuffing the rudder gland was on my list and done
during this refit. I will wait to see how much I have to adjust it.Pete
On 7/8/2013 8:23 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
I installed a PSS shaft seal on Sarah in 2001. No problems in the last 12
years. I replaced the standard stuffing box because I had a constant leak
of water into the bilge. It looked like it was coming from the stuffing
box. Turns out the leak was from the stuffing box on the rudder post.
I’m satisfied with the PSS seal, but probably would be just as satisfied
with the stuffing box.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:39 PM, Page Two wrote:
At present I don’t know anything about these drip less shaft seals (with
springs too?) but I do know without a doubt that as Bob and Indulgence hint
at, that the old stuffing boxes have been working OK for a long. long time.
Simple machined bronze to bronze, unbreakable really, with an inexpensive,
easily replaced waxy stuffing that if you actually do regular maintenance
tightening will keep your bilge dry. Guess I’ll have to study the
advantages or not of the PYI drip-less shaft seal that’s installed on my
soon to be floating home.
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New generation of Lasdrop does not depend on the corrugated hose but
instead on a spring loaded assembly. I added one of these new ones
during our refit. Earlier generation of this with corrugated hose on
our boat worked very well.Pete
On 7/8/2013 4:43 PM, quent wrote:
We have had a Lasdrop shaft seal for about a decade with good service. A couple things to consider.
The seal depends on a carbon ring on the corrugated hose pressing on a stainless ring on the shaft. It will leak a little, necessary to cool and lubricate the seal. When launching, it is necessary to burp any air trapped in the hose to wet the seal and prevent overheating.
The stainless ring seals to the shaft with O-rings. If the shaft is worn or scored where the O-rings seat, you might need a new shaft.
Said ring is held in place with setscrews. It’s best to back this up with a hose clamp or a shaft zinc.
If it was a do over, I might go with a traditional stuffing box and more high tech stuffing, at least Teflon stuff.
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Thanks. Â I used to use then for car insurance back in the 80’s
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Certainly leafs me to make a lot of phine calls next week
Pete
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Thatcher, who are you insured through and in what state did you buy the
insurance?Thanks,
Pete
On 7/6/2013 1:35 PM, Thatcher A. Stone wrote:
Quote:Pleasure.Currently I have coverage from 37° North latitude to 17° South latitude east of the eastern border of Mexico and west of the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. The coverage includes hull valuation with a $500 deductible of $90,000, All third-party liability coverage up to 3 million, and corresponding pollution liability if there is a fuel spill subject to the same overall 3 million limit for liability. There is also a provision for uninsured boaters liability in the event that I am hit by a third-party or damaged by third party with no insurance. In addition the policy dovetails with an umbrella policy I carry to provide extra coverage. The basic marine policy costs me $1600 a year for basically four kinds of coverage. That’s why I am saying, the devil is in the details.
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On Jul 6, 2013, at 3:19 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:And you’re right, that’s what needs to be done. Once we know there’s a
fruit salad on the table, then I hope for everyone’s sake that you’ll step
in, identify the ingredients and clarify the options. No one is better
qualified.Thanks,
Tor
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My boat has a second set that drain out the transom.
Pete
On 7/6/2013 4:25 PM, Page Two wrote:
aside from the bloated premiums
Any of you guys added cockpit drains on top of the two the boat comes with? Also, who’s the math guy here and can you give me a ballpark volume of these cockpits? Seems to me it would take a hell of a long time for these tubs to drain if you were pooped.
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Let’s not get carried away Tor… at least not in regards to growing up.
Pete
On 7/5/2013 6:23 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Quent,I’ve emailed my son-in-law about a group boat insurance rate for Pearson 424
owners. I’ll let everyone know what he says as soon as I hear back. (Come to
think of it, if it can work for us, it could work for a whole boatload of
other owners groups. Damn, I could be on to something here.)Yeah, wouldn’t that be a hoot if a bunch of sailors helped put my grandkids
through college. Hey, maybe I could go with them. Get a degree. Maybe even
amount to something when I grow up.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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hhhhooo Tor… now you’re talking… (didn’t know there were little Tors)
On 7/5/2013 3:34 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:That’s impressive, Joe. I don’t have properties & cars with Allstate, but I
may have something even better; a son-in-law who owns a couple of Allstate
agencies. Maybe I ought to ask him about this. I wonder if we could work out
a group rate for us 424 owners.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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