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Hi Tor,
After reading all the messages between you and Herb I am not sure my
solution has any value for you. I thought his initial message mentioned that
his dinghy was an rib. However, a later message and photo indicates that he
has an inflateable keel model with removable fiberglass floor. If your
dinghy has a soft bottom then my approach wont help you. However, I will try
to get some photos in the next several days. I am currently in the process
of hauling for the winter and my dinghy is about an hour’s drive away at the
moment.
Phil
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Hi Tor,
I have a RIB and my solution was to purchase two ss straps from West marine
(about 1/2″ wide and one is four inches long and the other three is I
remember correctly) and fastened them to the inside ends of the towing
U-bolt. I bent them as required to permit a shackly pin to pass through the
two holes. A doubled 3/8″ line adjusted to the appropriate length forms the
connection between the schackle and the lifting tackle. It has worked fine
for me.Phil Fontaine
Aurora
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Pat, Patrick & Allen
Thank you all for your replies.
Phil
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Hi Pat,
I also am considering the NFM SS ports and called Michael Lux as you
suggested to Joe. The boat show price I received for six 5×12 ports was
$1529.10 which he said was a $37 per port saving. The $1529.10 price works
out to be $254.85 each. Just curious about the source of the $230 price you
mentioned in your earlier message.? Second question concerns cabin wall
thickness. Do you (or anyone else) know what that is? Alternatively, can
someone who has purchased these tell me whether teak spacers were required
to make up the correct thickness? Michael Lux mentioned needing somewhere
around 3/4 inch thickness. I’d be surprized if our cabins are that thick.
Thanks,
Phil fontaine – Aurora
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Oops – that would be 5/16 chain not 5/8
Phil
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Patrick,
Re. your question relating to Aurora (chain travel from windlass to chain
pipe): The weight of the chain from the mouth of the chain pipe to the
chain pile in the lower locker is sufficient to pull the chain across the
gap between the windlass and the mouth of the chain pipe. The added weight
and friction of mud however is the reason for the occasional hang up at the
mouth of the pipe that I mentioned previously.
I would take exception with your last comment …”no one has zero castling
problems” … . The entry point of the chain into the lower locker on
Aurora is directly above the deepest part of the locker. I store 200 feet of
5/8 chain in the locker (and another 100 led behind the bow water tank) and
have never had to go below to nock the pile over in order to get all the
chain in.
Phil Fontaine
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Check out Aurora’s setup on the web-site/Gallery if you haven’t already.
Works fine unless I take in muddy chain (which I have done on occasion when
wash-down wasn’t working). Muddy chain will sometimes pile up on deck at the
entrance to the chain pipe but can be made to drop with a nudge of the hand.
Phil Fontaine
Aurora
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Rich,
I don’t have any direct comparison with other products but it generally met
my needs in my 2007/2008 trip to Florida and the Bahamas. It worked fine at
most marina docks and when anchored out at ranges of 1/4 to 1/2 mile. I
managed to file my income taxes at that range in Elizabeth Harbor,
Georgetown. I do pich up stations at a mile or more but not always reliably.
Phil
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Rod,
I have been using a Wave RV Marine antenna from RadioLabs since 2077 with
good results. http://www.radiolabs.com/index.php The electronics are built
into the antenna base and it connects with the supplied cable to a USB input
connector on the computer. I note, on their web site, that the price is the
same as I paid in 2007 ($169.95).They also have a new product called CaptiFi which appears to be smaller and
a bit lower in price, but, I have no information or experience concerning
that unit.I mounted my antenna on the stbd side of the stern pulpit with a standard
rail mount. The wire is run down along the pulpit leg and through a clam
shell wire seal unit (allows the USB connector to pass through the seal)
mounted on the coming adjacent to the leg , then to the nav. station .Phil Fontaine
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Thanks to the previous owner my tanks have three ports. I am able to sponge
all of the water and silt out in the fall and I can wipe down all surfaces
with bleach water at the beginning of each season. However, the ports are
plastic and some of them tend to leak when the tanks are overfilled (which
happens most of the time). You may want to consider metal ports if you add
more.
Phil Fontaine
Aurora
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Nice job. Looks great.
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Lee,
The bottom end of the brace for my anchor platform is held to the stem by four bolts. I used long bolts in the lower positions and bridged them with a short piece of chain. The bitter end of the anchor chain is shackled to the short piece. Bob Fine’s description of a piece of rope to fasten the bitter end is probably a better (safer) arrangement. I may change mine to do the same.
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Pete,
My engine pan has always collected water from places other than hoses or
pumps. I pump it out once in a while and clean it up a bit. But, mostly I
keep an oil-sorb pad in the pan across the front of it and another just
forward and below it to keep any oil in the overflow from getting into the
bilge.I also keep an oil absorber in the bilge to sop up anything that might
get by the first two. John evedidently has some separation between the hull
and the pan that allows water to bypass it.
I will be cureious to to see what other owners report on the matter.
Phil Fontaine
Aurora
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Hi Bob,
You are correct. Just remove the four allen head bolts.
I don’t see why your servicing plan should not work fine, presuming there is no feature inside the gear housing that shouldn’t be drilled. I’m sure you will be able to determine that when you remove it. I had never serviced mine (nine years) until I had the leak. There was a little gear wear but the remaining oil looked good and was still high enough to be providing lubrication (thopugh not visible in the sight glass). My unit is installed in the forward cabin and the leak became noticeable when it dripped on one of the bunk cushions.
Good luck.
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Rod/Bob
It might be that there are different sight glass arrangements. Mine sounds as though it is like Bob’s. It is a horizontal plastic fitting on the side of the gear box and there is no way of removing it without losing about half the oil and then no way to put the oil back in to the proper level.
My Maxwell 1200 developed a seal leak between the motor and gear box last year and I could not confirm that I had sufficient oil by looking at the sight glass. The first thing I did was to talk to a Maxwell service rep and confirmed that the gear box had to be dismounted to add oil to the proper level. It was not practical for me to do that at the time so I stopped using the windlass until the boat was on the hard last winter before attacking the problem. While it is possible to dismount the gear box and motor together it would be a two man job and probably not worth the effort since it is relatively easy to remove the motor first. If I recall correctly, there are four bolts going up through the gear box from below that must be removed to drop the gear box. It is not necessary to mess with the snap ring on the shaft. Once removed one can simply pour the oil out, add new gear oil to the proper level (half way up the sight glass/plug) and reassemble. Not a very neat engineering job but that is the way it is.
Seals, if required, can be purchased as a kit (about $50.00) from one of the US reps listed on the Maxwell web-site. Those reps are not all created equal. It took me three tries before I found one who was knowledgeable, had the parts and was willing to tell me how to replace the seals.I replaced only the leaking seal between the motor and gear box and had no problem with reassembly.
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