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David
Get two sets of adjustable slip lock nut wrenches, available at most home goods stores. Use these to tighten your packing gland.
Itâs normal for the boat to pull hard to one side when under power. I honestly donât remember which way it pulls. At low power settings, less than 6kts, I donât notice it. Under moderate power, up to about 7kts or so, the pull is noticeable but the autopilot handles it with no problem. At high-power however the autopilot canât handle the helm. There is little gain in running the boat at high power settings however since little is gained in speed yet fuel consumption goes up dramatically.
Rich
I soda-blasted my hull about 5 years ago. It cost $4k to soda-blast. Then I had to sand it per the barrier-coat instructions. I then added 7 coats of barrier coat and three coats of bottom paint. I think the whole process cost me about $6500. No blisters since.
Rich
I removed mine years ago. Weight from the batteries was giving the boat a permanent list to starboard. The house batteries are now in the bilge where the weight does some good. The locker is now quite large whereas it was pretty useless before. It’s fill of stuff however. No matter how much storage you have, you will fill it.
I’m aware that there is some danger to them if the boat floods. I have a separate starter battery up high in the aft hanging locker.
Rich
Normally, my club removes sloops from the aft end, requiring that the backstay be removed. Ketches however have the mizzen in the way so we remove them bow-first. The forestay must be removed and pulled back out of the way. This is a PIA since the roller furling extrusion is inflexible and hard to move around. Thatâs why we prefer to do sloops stern first.
Slings on the 424 must clear the prop and strut. For me, thatâs right at the primary winches. The yard snugs up the straps then I go below and spin the prop shaft to make sure itâs clear of the straps before they lift. The straps are positioned as far apart as possible with our 50-ton travel lift.
Rich
Keel damage can come from a few things other than running aground. If you live in a cold climate and donât drain the bilge in the fall or let water get in there, the water left will freeze. When it expands, it can crack the keel, usually at the end. If you haul the boat and donât block it right, you can damage the keel. Support blocks need to be placed under the forward half of the keel where it is solid.
Rich
Take a close look at the tabbing where the V-drive pan attaches to the hull and pan. I had to repair that on my boat. The photo you sent looks a bit suspicious.
Rich
David
I canât imagine what caused flexing in your deck. Iâve had no such issue and Iâve heard of no other owners who have reported a similar issue. I can only assume that there was something wrong with the epoxy when they laid-up your deck. Iâve had more than a dozen adults sit on the cabin top on an evening race, all on one side of the coach.
Rich
David
Iâve repaired rot in my deck in various places but have no evidence of large scale delamination. What caused your deck issue?
The repairs I made are around the main cabin hatch and at the stanchion bases. For the stanchions, I did the repairs from the top using thickened epoxy in a caulking tube. The only issue I had was to keep the stuff from leaking out the bottom through the crew holes.
Rich
I have a Tigress. I assume this is very similar. There is a ring next to the gypsy that the handle plugs into.RichYour overheat buzzer shouldnât sound unless the temperature gets well above 240deg. Have you replaced the sender yet?
Donât put a switch on the buzzer. Itâs a land mine. My yacht club had a similar switch on the club launch engine. Someone accidentally opened the switch and the buzzer didnât sound when the engine had an issue. The result was a seized engine.
Rich
David
I tried various 2-part coatings on my deck and found the too slippery. Let us know how this goes.
Rich
Skip
So far, the RV-26 I installed is working well, no issues. I have two complaints with the V-drive, the lack of fresh-water cooling and the shabby coating they use on it. I touch-up the paint every year or so. My Yanmar engine has a very durable paint, possibly baked-on enamel. It stays clean and doesnât rust. The V-drive however turns into a bucket of rust if I donât touch it up every year.
The RV-26 runs warm to the touch even with 70 deg cooling water. I think cooling is necessary for this V-drive. As for a freshwater cooling, they put an oil pump on the RV-26. I donât see why it couldnât have a water pump and cooling jacket too, at least as an option. I was told that you canât run the engine freshwater cooling system through the V-drive instead of seawater.
The RV-26 has an oil cooler that runs through the cooling jacket. This is just a cupernickel pipe. It will make cleaning the cooling jacket pretty difficult in the future. Like the RV-20, it is just a matter of time before corrosion in the cooling jacket becomes an issue with the RV-26.
Rich
How do you know itâs running 220deg? Perhaps your gauge is off? If you were really running at 220, youâd have steam blowing out of your water heater after running a while. 190..200 would be normal.
Try replacing your thermostat. Most can be matched at any auto parts shop, including the gasket. Clean the cover assembly mating surface well before reinstalling. I suggest a scotch-bright polishing pad.
http://www.harborfreight.com/complete-sanding-disc-kit-43029.html
Your heat exchanger may need to be cleaned. You can remove it and send it out to a radiator shop to have it cleaned. If you can open both ends of the heat exchanger, you can run a welding rod through the tubes can clean them yourself. Not as good as sending it out but usually does the trick.
Rich
I assume you have the RV-20 as originally built. Cases are no longer available. Unless you can find a good used one, perhaps from freshwater, you’re hosed. If you haven’t already read my notes, here’s a link.Rich Carter – 493-3330