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Thanks, John. That sounds like what I want. I don’t need to read engine
hours in the cockpit anyway. It’s just for fuel consumption estimates and
engine maintenance schedules. But I’ll check with Yanmar about the tach
first.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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John,
I repowered with a Yanmar 4JH4E and, like you, am 100% happy with the
engine. However, the LCD engine hours read-out has just failed, a little shy
of 1000 hours. That read-out is built into the tachometer. From what you’re
saying, replacing the tach may be painfully expensive, especially here in
the Grenadines. Maybe I can rig up a separate engine hour meter, something
simple that works. Ideally, I’d like to start it at the current hours
reading (rather than starting it at zero). Any ideas out there? Are counters
like this pretty common and straightforward?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Good point about the cockpit drains, Rich. So much for my “theory” (although my drains are above the waterline).
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Ken,
Yes, I believe that LPG vent hose T’s into the aft-port locker’s line,
although I think it could just as well vent into the cockpit where any
leaked propane would exit through the cockpit drains. Theoretically.Attached is a photo showing the box between the mizzen mast and pedestal.
Adding fold-down side wings to it to make a decent cockpit table is still on
one of my to-do lists.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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One of the rare improvements made by some PO of my boat (or perhaps by the
factory as a special order item) is a large (20-lb?) propane tank in a
locker in between the mizzen mast and the steering pedestal. This is in
addition to the original pair of small tanks in the port lazarette aft,
which I hold in reserve to cover things while I’m refilling the primary
tank. This smart arrangement ensures that I never run out of LPG.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Silverheels’ 1978 fuel tank is steel. When I bought her, the tank had a few
patches of surface rust on the outside, which I treated and painted where I
could see and reach. I have no way of knowing how it’s doing inside, but
have seen no hint of iron oxide in the fuel and filters. I’m reluctant to
fix something that isn’t broken.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Paul,
This subject has come up before, most recently a month ago. My comment then
was as follows:My 424 had been sitting on the hard for unknown months when I bought her.
One of the very first things I did, just before (mostly) motoring her 300
miles up the ICW to another boat yard, was to remove and replace that foggy
portlight in the cockpit sole so I could see through it, and pull the
30-year-old fuel sight gauge and replace it with a new one, readily
available from any marine store for $10 or $15. While those things were out,
I secured a hose to a long stick with wire ties, gently lowered the end
through the sight gauge hole to the tank’s deepest point, which is at the
forward end of the tank, and used a hand pump to suck out about a gallon or
so of fuel from there. To my delight it came up clean and free of water, so
I figured (correctly, as it turned out) that it was safe to use. If it had
come up ugly, I would probably have pumped out more until it showed clear,
or if it looked too far gone, arranged for polishing.Of course, I had the advantage of a boat that had been on the hard for a
long time. Any water and most dirt in the fuel tank would long ago have
settled to the deepest part of the tank. But even if your boat has been
sitting in a calm slip for a week, I believe you’d find most if not all of
the gunk settled to the bottom.Of course, you can unwittingly take on dirty fuel anytime. I have been saved
more than once by having twin Racor fuel filters / water separators between
the tank and the engine, with a valve to switch from one to the other
instantly if one gets clogged by sludge.Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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I should add that this low-maintenance routine keeps teak healthy forever. I
did it on my previous cruising boat and after 6 years and 30k miles the teak
still looked factory-new.Quote:
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Amen to that, brother. That has been my approach, too. Unfortunately,
Silverheels’ PO’s apparently scrubbed her cap rail with a bristle brush and
also over-sanded it. The result by the time I bought her was a very course
grain and a lot of wood plugs too thin to stay in place. I sanded down the
grain to a tolerable smoothness and did my best to replace the missing wood
plugs, but some of them refuse to stay put, not having enough depth to grab
the teak around them. That’s as far as I “chose” to go, cosmetically
speaking. As for maintenance, I scrub all the exterior teak every 6 months
or so using a detergent and bleach solution and a 3M pad, followed by a
thorough rinse and 2 or 3 coats of teak oil. The result looks like gold for
about week, then reverts to its natural gray hue, which I prefer to think of
as traditional. (No way am I going to enslave myself to varnish in the
tropics!)Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Not to spoil the fun, but you could simply paint the old cap rail and go
sailing. A fresh topcoat every 3-5 years is all the maintenance it requires,
and if you put on a few coats of varnish before painting, it’s possible for
some future owner to strip the paint off and retrieve the teak.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Happy news (mostly).
Have fun,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Risto,
Are you planning to remove the teak cap rail and replace it with plastic?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Hey Linus,
8.5 knots at 1900 RPM? Man, what do you have under the hood, 150 HP?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Dude, I would have taken that measurement when you first requested it, but I
don’t have a forward dorade box, nor is there anything left to indicate
where the original anchor well was. So your reference points do not apply
here. Also, I know from experience on my previous boat that it matters how
the dink fits over the forward end of the coachhouse, which means knowing
where the athwartships seat is in the dinghy when it’s inverted up there,
what its beam is at several points, etc. The simple linear measurement you
want isn’t going to tell you what you really want to know, i.e., whether the
dinghy will fit there comfortably.All that said, it’s about 10′ from my foremost mast pulpit foot to where the
aft edge of original anchor well probably was. My guess is the 9′ dyer will
fit. Maybe.😉
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Ken,
The vast majority of mast pulpits are mounted symmetrically as you describe.
That’s because they look nice that way and most people don’t really think
much about it when they install them. I’m just pointing out another way of
approaching the placement if someone is putting them on originally.Tor
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