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Rodd,
Where did you find that wetted surface figure?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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John,
How’s your bottom paint holding up out there? What kind is it? How old?
I believe there are antifouling paints for inflatables (if that’s what you have). Have not used any myself, and probably won’t need to now that I have a boat with davits. Anyway, I suppose it’s easy enough to beach & clean your dink in the Bahamas.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
You’re probably right about “a little more than three gallons.” I have a quart of Petit Trinidad laying around, which I could use for the final waterline coating. It’s got a little more cuprous oxide than the Shipbottom stuff anyway.
My plans this year include the East Coast this summer, then the Windward Islands. The paint should get a thorough workout. Like you, I’m used to scrubbing the bottom periodically, but only in warm, clean, clear water. Like in Martinique!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
I just emailed Super Shipbottom for a shipping price to my yard. Using their online formula, I figured on 3 gallons for two complete coats, plus another coat around the waterline. They say that’ll keep the boat’s bottom clean for 2 years of fulltime immersion. I’d be amazed if it really did.
Not 100% decided to use that paint yet. Still have one more local source to check a little later today.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks for that additional input, Pat. Pretty dry reading, but the only reference I could find to tetracycline in the first report said, “Oxytetracycline is photo-degradable in surface waters as has been reported for Tetracycline (Peterson et al. 1993).” I assure you I will do everything in my power to keep my boat’s bottom at the ocean’s surface, where the chemical can photo-degrade. The second report you referenced, “Impacts of Tetracycline on Planktonic Bacterial Production in Prairie Aquatic Systems,” does not address ocean waters at all and the sentence you quoted from it refers to river bacteria.
In fact, I agree with your sentiment, truly. I don’t want to hurt the ocean. Tetracycline may (or may not) effect oceanic planktonic bacteria up to some unspecified distance in unknown concentrations. It certainly affects the adjacent organisms that build barnacles, because by all accounts they don’t on boats employing that treatment. So, to some extent, do cuprous oxide and all the other really deadly stuff created by Dow Chemical and loaded into the various antifouling paints we use, not to mention acetone, epoxy, polyurethane, engine emissions, and so on ad nauseum. All these things leech into the environment and “impact” the life around them. Tetracycline may, too, but is that really “leaching antibiotics into every ecosystem (I) enter?” On some very localized level, yes, it obviously is, but I do not believe the coral reefs of the Caribbean will die because I passed that way.
In my opinion, the only way we can remain impact-free is to avoid owning a boat (or a car or, for that matter, a house) altogether. All these things are horrible polluters in a hundred different ways and contrary to nature. I truly wish it were otherwise, and I have actually considered the option of returning to a (nearly) impact-free life as an ascetic, a path I followed for some years a long time ago. For now, however, I’m a sailor and must do my best to keep my boat going.
As I said, I agree with your sentiment wholeheartedly, but I don’t think there’s a whole lot of difference between deterring and even killing adjacent bacteria with one chemical or another.
Anyway, my original question was whether or not anyone among us has tried tetracycline in their bottom paint. I take it the answer is no.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
Good info. You should write a book! How much $$ is that Ship Superbottom paint?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Easy, now. I’ve never claimed to live a low impact life, Pat, and doubt whether any of us are innocent of leaving a trail. Still, we all care about our ocean.
“A recent Yachting magazine article advocated the use of capsules of the antibiotic tetracycline to be added to cheap copper-based paints. The impact of such a paint on non-target bacteria, algae and oysters was investigated. Tetracycline was found to leach rapidly from painted surfaces and degrade quickly in seawater. The concentrations released were insufficient to cause any deleterious effects on marine organisms, including those responsible for fouling boat hulls. (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/has-anybody-used-this-bottom-paint-10997.html)
Next?
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Garhauer is a good idea. Worth a try. Will let you know.
Thanks,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I’d be interested to see how Sarah ultimately dealt with the sheet or sheets, if he has figured that out yet. (Sorry, but I can’t remember who among us owns Sarah.)
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thank you, Alan. I have seen that photo before. Beautiful pieces! I’m having a local welder make up a backing plate similar to what’s in the photo, but from 1/4″ aluminum rather than the thinner, polished stainless steel, and with a welded tube between the plate ends rather than the full gusset Whoosh employed. Also, I’m using a double folding eye on deck since I may remove the inner forestay for ordinary day sailing and don’t want to break my toe on a big, protruding, fixed pad eye when I go forward.
His mast fitting looks excellent. Looks like I’ll be having something similar, maybe beefier, made locally, also from stainless, but not polished like that and a mast hound strap will wrap around far enough be thru-bolted along with the running backstay tangs. Different strokes, is all. I suspect all these various approaches are plenty strong enough.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Correction: The staysail rig mast fitting offered by the guy who used to make them for Metal Mast / Pearson costs $425, not $475.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Alan,
No, I haven’t seen the mast fitting Jack Tyler had made. Would like to, though. Where is it posted?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks for your feedback, John. I’m a native New Yorker (as in Manhattan-born), so I guess I know northeastern temperament. This girl was just plain surly. Whatever. Since then I called Rigging Only, whom I recommend very highly. They supplied the materials for my total re-rig a couple of years ago, along with personal guidance and advice above and beyond the call of duty. In addition, their prices are hard or impossible to beat. Anyway, I called the owner there, who actually remembered me, and discussed what I was seeking. It was very unlike calling RigRite, I assure you. The long and short of it is he referred me to the guy who used to do this stuff for Metal Mast when they made the spars for Pearson. I called him and, sure enough, he knew exactly what I needed and offered to make it up for me. The catch is that he charges $475 for that fitting. I can accomplish the same thing locally for half that much.
So, it looks like I’m back to a custom job. It was worth checking, though.
Incidentally, the folding double pad eye that is the ideal deck fitting for a staysail stay & tack pennant is made by two manufacturers: Wichard (cheapest price = $132 from Rigging Only), and Holt (best price I found was from Port Supply, PN 8681629, for $72.50). The Holt rings were actually beefier than Wichard’s biggest fitting. Guess which one I bought.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Dave. If you got information from RigRite, you did better than I. All I got was a surly secretary
whose job it apparently is to keep customers away from the tech support people. When I asked if someone could
tell me who made the spars for the early Pearson 424’s, her curt reply was that it would take a great deal of
research to find out, which meant “take a hike, jerk, we ain’t doing any extra work for you.” Based on that
bit…, I mean, that woman, it doesn’t seem like a company that wants my business.I’m looking for a strongly made mast fitting to attach a staysail stay and its halyard block. Am hoping to
find something pre-made or for which a shop already has the jigs, etc, rather than pay for a complete custom
fabrication.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Just for the sake of stirring up some of that good old religious fervor (which is another way of saying this
is sure to aggravate somebody, if not everybody):If you’re going for a yacht club finish, 10 coats of varnish, professionally applied, is hard to beat. For a
presentable working man’s finish Cetol is most practical, especially in the sub-tropics, and it looks pretty
good. If, however, you’re going cruising then there will ALWAYS be something better to do with your time than
fuss with making teak look pretty. In that case I recommend you clean the exterior teak very well, sand it
smooth, and then never again scrub it with anything more abrasive than a 3M pad with a solution of detergent
and bleach. This you should do every 6 months, each time followed by a thorough freshwater rinse. When the
wood’s dry, rub in several coats (until saturated) of good teak oil, like Amazon Gold or a homemade mix of
linseed, tung and (maybe) lemon oils with some clear anti-fungicidal wood preservative added in for good
measure.The teak will look like fine gold for a week or two – a good time to take photos of the old girl – and then
it’ll turn grey. For the next half-year it’ll look salty, not yacht club pretty, but it will be blissfully
healthy. Keep this up for as many years as you own the boat. Then, when it’s time to sell, clean and 3-coat
varnish the teak. It’ll come up like the day it was milled and the boat will be so pretty you may not want to
sell her after all.This is a true story. Only the names have been changed…
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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