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Well, then, kudos to Jack Tyler for a well-written piece (and to you for having the good taste to publish it!).
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, John. Yes, Jack’s fittings are very similar to what I want for my staysail. However, unlike a Solent stay my staysail stay will fasten to the middle of the foredeck. A protruding deck fitting there would be a guaranteed toe-breaker whenever the stay is removed. So I’m going to shell out the bucks for the Wichard folding double pad-eye that Bob Fine used.
I happened to scroll down the svsarah.com page for which you sent me a link (below). Your mini-article on windvanes and tiller pilots is excellent! Well written and right on. I am this very day ordering an Auto-Helm windvane from Scanmar Marine (same guys that build Monitor windvanes), and will be setting up a tiller pilot with that almost exactly as you did. I’m using an Auto-Helm brand windvane primarily because it’s the only model I found that allows me to simultaneously use my davits. (I also like the independent “2nd” rudder.)
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
I’m inclined to have the mast fitting for the staysail stay & halyard block wrap around the mast a bit more than yours does, although since yours has held up I’m sure it’s is fine. I’ll check with those spar makers before I make something up myself. Thanks for the suggestions.
I’m planning to mount my staysail’s deck fitting farther aft than your PO did, probably 5-6″ from the after edge of the chain locker bulkhead. Hence, the longer plate. You’re right about the head-splitting edge of that gusset, though, and I will definitely do something to modify it.
I’ve seen the cable to the base of the stem you mention, which splits the V-berth. I prefer our approach.
Thanks again,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Alan. I’m not doing a Solent stay, but would like to look at those Whoosh fittings if anyone can provide a URL.
I did measure my chain locker bulkhead, inside and out. It will accommodate the 12″ height of the plate I drew.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, John, that’s the info I’m looking for. Please let me know if you figure out your prop’s pitch.
Any other 4JH4E users out there?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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That makes a lot of sense, Rich, especially the nearness to center of gravity (and the 2/0 cable). If I didn’t have a holding tank under there…
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Lee,
In my opinion the cockpit locker is not an ideal place for batteries, especially a lot of batteries. The weight is too far from the boat’s center of gravity, and you can only access them by opening the hatch and exposing them to the weather – or flying sea spray, as the case may be. Some portion of a sea breaking into the cockpit might conceivably force its way down there and short out the whole bank. Muy malo.
My solution was to leave those original compartments as storage boxes, at least for now, and put 5 new Group 31 AGM’s into the locker just aft of the water heater, beneath the inboard aftermost corner of the aft cabin bunk (photo attached – the pipe and rope are for lifting the batteries out).
Upsides:
– The weight is lower and further forward, as it should be.
– The batteries are out of the weather.
– They’re close to the alternator, but not exposed to the engine’s heat,
– and they’re only a little farther from the battery selector switch under the nav table than was the original location.Downsides:
– This location lacks adequate ventilation for wet-cell batteries, although that could probably be remedied.
– Five Group 31’s pack in there like sardines which, once done, is actually a good thing. If you decide to go this route, let me know and I’ll spare you a week’s worth of head-scratching and experimenting to get them all in there.I also installed a single AGM Group 27 starter battery in the bottom inboard corner of the tall locker to starboard of the companionway ladder. That’s an even more ideal location for batteries, being closer to the electric panel, but I didn’t want to give up the whole locker. Lastly, I have another AGM Group 27 battery mounted just aft of the forward water tank, low down and to port, to power an electric windlass.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Seriously though, folks… I was only suggesting that if LPG can be used safely on board for one purpose, it can be used safely on board for another. As for alcohol stoves, I believe their single big advantage is that the flame can be put out with water if it gets out of hand. That’s why all the VI charger boats used to install them for the bare boaters. However, the alcohol burners are two-stage – you have to preheat them as with the old kerosene stoves – and then the alcohol flame itself is notoriously cool. That is, it takes longer to heat things up than LPG or kerosene. Alcohol cooking fuel’s most damning characteristic, though, is that the smell of it was (last time I checked) the only thing I’ve encountered that can make me feel downright queasy in rough weather.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Don,
If by LGP you meant LPG, then what you say about it is, of course, true and well known. Still, that doesn’t negate it as a practical fuel aboard a boat. Ever try cooking on an alcohol stove?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I didn’t realize this “rotted out door to a bow/anchor locker” is horizontal, to be walked upon. In that case, of course a final non-skid surfacing would be in order – sand in the paint, strips of non-skid tape, a scrap of rubberized non-skid or coat of KiwiGrip paint if someone in the yard is doing their decks with one of those… Whatever’s available and looks good to you.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rodd,
A cheap, easy and durable fix would be ordinary exterior plywood cut to size, double-coated with liquid (West) epoxy, and then light-sanded and painted. It’ll probably outlast the boat. Alternatively, you could stain the wood before putting on the epoxy, and then apply UV varnish instead of paint. But paint is lower maintenance.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rodd,
A cheap, easy and durable fix would be ordinary exterior plywood cut to size, double-coated with liquid (West) epoxy, and then light-sanded and painted. It’ll probably outlast the boat. Alternatively, you could stain the wood before putting on the epoxy, and then apply UV varnish instead of paint. But paint is lower maintenance.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Lee,
It’s hard for some who do not have Pearson in-mast furling to picture your system. Can you send a photo of the area you believe is leaking, and maybe another of your neighbor’s plug?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Doesn’t matter. They’re cheap at half the price.
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Yes, yes and yes.
Regarding hot showers in the tropics, once your blood gets thinned out down there you actually do want heated water for bathing in the evening. I just prefer methods more efficient than running a motor to heat up the entire 10-gallon water heater. Sun showers, of course. Also my infamous Home Depot insecticide can, which provides a perfect pressure shower anywhere on the boat you chose to take it. You can warm it up in the afternoon sun, or just heat a kettle on the stove last-minute, add that to some cool water in the can, pump up a little pressure and you’re singin’ in the rain.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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