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Linus,
The windvane costs about a million dollars, but I decided it’s worth it to me for the cruising I’m planning to do. I’ll take photos of the installation.
The trim tab is mounted on the after edge of the Auto-Helm’s outboard rudder and is controlled by a pair or cables that are in turn controlled by either the airvane or the tiller pilot. The Auto-Helm does not connect to or affect the boat’s primary steering system at all.
(OK, it’s not quite a million dollars. Pricing is at http://www.selfsteer.com/products/autohelm/priceList.php . They’re offering a $500 discount right now.)
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Well, John, I’m not superstitious or anything, but… no way would I depart on that voyage on June 19th. There are 6 other, more auspicious days that week you could leave.
http://geekswithblogs.net/mtreadwell/archive/2004/04/16/3995.aspx
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Linus,
I think you’re right on with this idea! I’ve just ordered an Auto-Helm windvane from Scanmar Marine, the same outfit that makes Monitor windvanes. Their Auto-Helm (no relation to Autohelm autopilots) design incorporates an independent, removable outboard rudder mounted on the lower transom. This rudder steers the boat while the vessel’s own steering system is centered and locked. It is in turn “steered” by an efficient trim tab, which is steered by the unit’s airvane when sailing, or can be steered by a tiller pilot when motoring. I’m convinced this combination is the most efficient, most secure self-steering arrangement for a long-range cruising sailboat, combining wind steering when sailing with relatively inexpensive, low-draw electric autopilot steering when motoring, plus a completely independent emergency steering system if the boat’s primary steering should ever fail.
What you’re considering – connecting a tiller pilot to an independent outboard rudder – is essentially a tiller pilot plus the lower half of the Auto-Helm system. It’ll work – and will work more efficiently if you add a trim tab onto the rudder as they have done – but you’ll be missing out on the electricity-free steering by the wind, and the security of an alterative self-steering system that’s completely independent of the boat’s electrical system.
Anyway, take a look at the Auto-Helm’s rudder (illustrations attached). It may give you some ideas for your project. And Linus, if a second, outboard rudder looks “trailer park,” then hey, call me trailer trash. I’ve been called worse.
🙂
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I’ve always done it by feel and sighting up the mast, too, Rich, and that has served me well enough on many boats for many years over many nautical miles. Still, this old dog’s always up for learning a new trick. I want to see if I can tweak this boat’s rigging to a finer point while I’ve got this borrowed tension gauge.
As soon as the rain stops, that is.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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For anyone interested in this subject, here is a summary of what I’ve learned. Most comes from a rigging book by Brion Toss.
Tuning Standing Rigging
Longer wires will stretch more, so they need to be set up tighter than shorter wires.Flattening the mainsail will help the boat sail more upright in strong winds. Bending the mast a little helps flatten the mainsail.
1) Forestay = 15%, then backstay(s) = 20%. Induce a little bend in the mast (less than one mast depth) with the backstay, then take up on the lowers “to control and define the bend.” Sight mast, then proceed with the uppers.
2) Lower shrouds = 10-12% of working strength
Sight mast.
3) Intermediaries = 12-15% of working strength
Sight mast.
3) Upper shrouds, head stay, back stay = 15-20% of working strength
Sight mast. 4) Staysail stay = 12% of working strength (I made this up.)Sight mast.
Then go sailing. First just sail around in a stiff breeze to get out the initial stretch in the wire. Then check that the leeward shrouds aren’t floppy while sailing to windward. If they are, tighten them a little, “until you feel a slight increase of resistance in the (well-lubricated) turnbuckle.” Then tack and repeat on the other side. Then sight up the mast. If the head falls off to leeward, the uppers may be too loose, or the lowers too tight. Try the lowers first.
If the headstay sags too much, tighten up the backstay.
Bottom Line: Keep the stick laterally straight, a little bend aft, and no slack in the wires.
Finally, cotter-pin all the turnbuckle studs.
Reef early,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Cada,
I wouldn’t know where to begin to answer your question, but if you want some ideas there’s a list of my own completed projects at http://www.silverheels.us/refit-list_done.htm , and a blessedly shorter ‘still-to-do’ list at http://www.silverheels.us/refit-list_to-do.htm . I’m sure you can find enough project ideas in there to keep yourself busy for the next few years.
Enjoy!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Norris,
Thanks for your feedback. I’m afraid I can’t picture what you’re describing, though. Any chance of sending a few photos?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, John. That sounds about right.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Rich. You have reminded me of something I ought to carve into a bulkhead somewhere: When all else fails, read the directions.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Joe,
I don’t think the Yanmar guy with whom I communicated was suggesting you run the engine at WOT all day. I had asked him what the engine should turn at full throttle and he told me. I believe he said the maximum cruise RPM is 2900, and that you can run at that all day. I should have mentioned this same guy urged me several times to check with a good prop shop about correct prop size and pitch.
I wanted to know what Yanmar had to say about this engine, but in general I’ve always found an engine’s cruising RPM’s by ear and feel. I guess that’s not very scientific or even logical, but I suspect more often than not that sweet spot is right around 80% of full throttle.
Regarding your 6 knots “cruising speed,” if you’re doing that driving into the trade winds & seas, then you’re flyin’! I think the rest of us were referring to cruising speeds in very light conditions. You’ll probably find your boat does close to 7 knots in those situations – like in the lee of an island where it tends to get very flat.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Pat (and other inquiring minds),
If “cabin top liner” is the paneling around the sides of the coachhouse belowdecks, around and in between the portholes & portlights, then all I did was paint them with with off-white EasyPoxy one-part polyurethane. That was a year and a half ago and they’re still lookin’ good. That paneling was in good shape at the time. I just wanted to brighten up the interior. I painted numerous dark teak bulkheads at the same time. It made a world of difference, esthetically.
The headliner in my boat was in excellent shape when I bought her. All I did was wipe it clean. I did discover one area of rotted headliner backing when I took some of the salon panels down to install the mast pulpits. The cause was an old deck fitting leak long since repaired. I replaced that backing with some Home Depot doorskin, but re-used the vinyl (or whatever that stuff is) covering.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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From Mastry Engine Center, north Florida distributor for Yanmar marine engines:
“The 4JH4E has a maximum rpm of 3000. Maximum cruise rpm is 2900. Yanmar states that you can run the engine all day long at 2900 rpm. It should idle around 800 rpm. The last set-up that was similar to your Pearson 424 used an 18″ x 14 3-blade. That would be a good starting point (although the 2:1 reduction V-drive might affect prop size). Just make sure the engine turns up to at least 3000 rpm at wide open throttle. We usually prop the boats with that engine so that it turns around 3150 rpm. That should drop down once the boat is provisioned and growth builds up on the hull. Fully loaded with a dirty bottom, the engine still needs to turn 3000 rpm wide open under load. That will keep the engine from being overloaded.”
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Joe (and other 4JH4E users),
I’ve been corresponding today with Yanmar’s north Florida distributor, Mastry Engine Center. I’ll share what I’ve learned after clarifying one or two final points with them.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Very interesting, Don. What is the size and pitch of your propeller? Also, do you know the RPM’s at full throttle under load?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Joe. Prowell is a feathering propeller, isn’t it? If you’re only getting 6 knots cruising speed, and then cavitation when you try to go faster, it seems like something’s not quite right.
I’m going to ask Yanmar about this tomorrow.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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