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Patrick,
My boat doesn’t have a plywood core. It’s balsa. Maybe there are a few plywood core spots – there should be in high stress areas – but I haven’t found them. All I’ve found anywhere in the deck & coachhouse is end-grain balsa core material.
In my opinion, it is not necessary to rout out the core around the edges of a large hole as you are discussing (and others here have said they’ve done). Instead, cut the hole you want just a shade large, like 1/16″ or maybe 3/32″ larger than the 3.75″, in your case. Then paint the inside edge, the exposed core material, all around, overlapping the fiberglass right up to the surfaces, with 2 coats of West epoxy. Let the first coat dry before you put on the second, a very light sanding in between. The thin liquid epoxy will penetrate the core, be it balsa or plywood, enough to seal the edges against any possible water intrusion. Then install the fitting, well-bedded.
That said, I do recommend over-drilling all fastener holes by several drill bit sizes or more. Then fill the holes completely with naturally thick (or else thickened) epoxy, let dry, then re-drill the correct size hole for the fastener right through the middle. Again, the core is 100% protected from water intrusion if the fastener ever leaks.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I’ll check out the new application when I get a chance. Up to my elbows at present, and the approaching holidays do not lighten the load. (I like the idea of logging “boat events,” considering how easily I sometimes forget when I last did those things.) When the time comes, I’ll be grateful for any and all assistance moving over to the new program. I’d sure hate to lose the inventory I’ve logged to date, and the changes I’ve made in the other sections.
Offhand, I can’t think of anything the Inventory program does not do that I’d like it to – it seems to accomplish its mission admirably – but will let you know if something comes to mind.
Now, back to the bilges…
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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John,
I use the Inventory Workbook regularly (and LOVE it!). Have not gotten to the Maintenance program yet, but intend to. For me to switch over to the new, combined workbook I’d have this additional issue: I have changed the Layout (including the drawing), Inventory Category Tables and Units table to fit my boat. I suppose I’ll just be able to copy/paste those columns, but thought I’d mention it.
I’m one of the guys who should probably wait until you’re completely finished tweaking the new, integrated applications before switching over, but will make the move when you say it’s ready.
Every time I find something with a few mouse clicks that would otherwise require tearing half the boat apart, I am grateful to you for sharing your creation with us. Thank you for these awesome programs.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Lee,
If you do elect to repair it with JB Weld or some similar product, you’ll get best results if you first eliminate the rust entirely. Wire brushing the area ’til it shines is a good start, but then brush on a phosphoric acid solution such as Ospho. Let that dry overnight, then do it again and let it dry again. Wipe away any loose residue afterwards – usually a bit of white powder on the surface – then apply the JB Weld, drill, tap, etc. When you’re done, prime and paint the area. It should last a long time.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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John,
When I was barely knee high to a sheet winch my daddy once told me, “Son, when all else fails read the instructions.” The Yanmar JH4 Series Operation Manual (P/N: 49961-206351) says on page 41 (Section 4.3.1), “It is easiest and most effective to drain the engine lubricating oil after operation while the engine is still warm. 1. Remove the lubricating oil dipstick. Attach the oil drain pump and pump out the oil. For easier draining, remove the oil filler cap (yellow) at the top of the rocker arm cover.” And so on.
Sounds like maybe you didn’t have a tight enough seal when you slid the hose over the dipstick tube. You might try it again with a hose clamp, and with the oil filler cap removed. I’d be interested to hear how you make out since I’m about to face the exact same challenge.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Yeah, you’ll see a few of the sharper ones alternately looking at your boat with binoculars and thumbing
through their Chapman’s or some other flag identifier, figuring out what you’re saying. I don’t think I’ve
ever met anyone who can read them outright, myself included.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Sewing is really the best way to piece together a flag, of course. I hand stitch, enough to mend a sail or whatever until I reach port, but never have learned to use a machine. Good on you for that.
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Bob,
No one is suggesting flying one nation’s courtesy flag in another country. I think that quote I passed along was referring to the fact that some skippers might fly a host country’s national flag when their courtesy flag rule specifies an ensign. That sort of thing.
The reason I included contact cement in the make-your-own-flags list is because I don’t sew much. I glued the various pieces of fabric together for all the courtesy flags I made and they held up very well. Still have most of them. Of course if you do sew, all the better.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Little wheels, indeed. Sometimes all this terminology makes me… truckle.
🙂
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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“Truck” is a term I picked up from some flag etiquette sources. For all practical purposes, I think it means the masthead. A personal pennant or “private signal” is properly flown from the mizzen masthead on a ketch, normally hoisted by a “pig stick,” a flagstaff on a halyard. I figure to use the mizzen staysail halyard for this since it’s not used very often for its true purpose.
FYI, Wikipedia defines pig stick this way: “A pig stick is a staff that carries a flag or pennant, usually the burgee of the boat owner’s yacht club, above a mast of a sailboat, it’s connected to a halyard so when it’s raised the top of the mast, the ‘pig stick’ extends above the mast allowing the flag to be seen flying above the boat’s sails.”
And just to keep things perfectly clear and literally (if not politically) correct, the Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines “pigstick” this way: “To hunt the wild boar on horseback with a spear.” Take your pick.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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If the batteries aren’t particularly low there’s very little load created by the alternator.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I’m sure you got a good deal from The Battery Shack. They’re knowledgeable, helpful and competitive. I just got lucky with this local guru. Older guy, modest shop, not looking for the big bucks. Heard about him around the boat yard.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Caca,
Clearly, you were frugal and sensible about your engine and your water. I just wanted to show off my portable shower-in-a-can.
Sure do miss that $1.00 diesel, though.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hey Bob,
You’re welcome to ask the guru about shipping:
Electric Bob
B & H Electric
144-E Industrial Loop
Orange Park, FL 32073
phone: (904) 269-7052
Email:The Xantrex is advertised at http://www.manventureoutpost.com/marine/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6122 . However, just as I was about to order it there appeared a Sold Out icon on the page (scroll down to see it). I emailed the store and the manager said he’d check on the availability and get back to me. Hopefully, I’ll know tomorrow if/when I can get it from them. There are other online sources, of course, for a little more money. West Marine was one of the most expensive on the Internet.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Alan,
You’re right about the quality of The Battery Shack’s alternators, but mistaken about their pricing. In the course of researching what I’m going to install, I called them yesterday and talked to the owner, Roger. Nice guy. Knows his stuff. He’s selling the same Delco CS-130 alternator, painted to inhibit rust, for $299 that I’m getting from my local guru for circa $200, similarly painted. That alternator comes standard with an internal regulator. Not a bad regulator, but limited compared to a programmable external “smart” regulator. Roger told me it would cost me an additional $300 to have his Delco with an external smart regulator. However, I had already found a Xantrex XAR 12 regulator online for $175 + $10 shipping.
So, The Battery Shack’s price for the 105-amp alternator, painted, w/external smart regulator = +/- $600 (plus shipping?)
My price via local electronics guru, including the alternator painted while disassembled, + external smart regulator from my own online source = around $400 (including shipping).
This is not to disparage The Battery Shack. On my own I had already decided to use the same excellent equipment they sell, and I certainly don’t begrudge the guy for making a living. I’m just pointing out that, for the budget-conscious cruiser, there are better prices available for the same parts.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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