Forum Replies Created
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Posts
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Rich,
How long ago did you replace the coupling bolts on your RV-20 with socket screws? A pretty savvy mechanic who helped me with mine said those bolts have to be (I think it was) case-hardened to stand up to the sheering forces. Was he mistaken?
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
——————Will,
I asked him and he said âMy boat is slow, but the sea is patientâ is all his, that he’s been saying it for years. His name is John A. Smith, on Facebook.
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
——————Will,
I asked him and he said âMy boat is slow, but the sea is patientâ is all his, that he’s been saying it for years. His name is John A. Smith, on Facebook.
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
——————Jack,
Looks like my earlier email about this never arrived. I’ll paste it below, but will also mention that long before I had my V-drive rebuilt I found some of the coupling bolts – the special, case-hardened (or whatever the term is) bolts that secure the shaft coupling to its mate on the V-drive – had come loose. Over time their wobbling had worn the holes in the couplings to ovals, so just re-tightening them wasn’t a viable remedy. The action had also damaged the loose bolts. As I recall, I had to buy a new coupling and a set of bolts.
As for the rebuild, here is what I sent earlier (that didn’t arrive):
A few years ago I pulled (and later re-installed) Silverheels’ V-drive while in the water, no problem. Just leave the coupling on the prop shaft so it can’t slip out (although that’s unlikely in any case if you have shaft zincs in place forward of the cutless bearing strut). I shipped the unit to Walter in New Jersey and had them refurbish/rebuild it. It was pricey – in the $500 range, if memory serves – but a lot cheaper than a replacement. No problems since then.
Good luck,
Tor
Ewan,
Please remind us again what email address to credit on PayPal in order to contribute to the fund. I’m game for another contribution, and I’m sure all 47 of our yet-to-pitch-in members are anxious to join in, as well.
Thanks,
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
——————Hi Dumela,
It is your choice whether or not you receive the group’s website discussion posts via email. At the top of the website HOME page, in the right-hand corner, is the PROFILE link. Click on that and your browser should go to https://www.pearson424.org/edit-profile/. Scroll down that page and you’ll see the MAILING GROUP SUBSCRIPTIONS section. If any of the boxes under that heading are checked, click on each to un-check them, then click on the UPDATE button below. That should stop group emails from being sent to you.
As for PayPal, that’s a popular internet money transfer website that most pearon424.org members use to contribute money towards the overhead expenses of operating this forum. I’ve been encouraging (badgering?) everyone here to do that so the volunteer who is doing all the work (Ewan) doesn’t also have to pay all the bills.
Good luck,
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Just kidding about being censored. My “PayPal is open for business” email to the group does seem to have arrived without its text, but maybe it’s just as well. Mainly it was suggesting that those of us who haven’t yet gotten around to chipping in towards Ewan’s out-of-pocket expenses of might want to do it today.
Thanks,
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
——————That’s funny. The forum server just sent me the “PayPal is open for business” message I submitted a little while ago – with all the text missing. Perhaps I was censored.
😉
Ken,
If you use a PC (as opposed to a Mac), I may be able to walk you through it fairly painlessly, depending on what associated program(s) you’re using. If that would be helpful, email me off-group at admiral@silverheels.us . (Yes, I’ve been promoted. It’s one of the advantages of single-handing.)
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
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I agree, Alan. It is getting a little old. Several group members don’t seem to know how to re-size their photos for email and web page sharing. Please learn, for everyone’s sake. Multi-megabyte photo files not only crash the 424.org system, but also clog up email servers & systems that have limited bandwidth (and they’re expensive to download for cruisers who pay for internet by the bandwidth). Please, everyone, downsize your photos before sharing them so that they’re never more than 1000 pixels wide, a few hundred KILObytes at the most. Half that is usually more than enough to share your projects with us. The ONLY time you’d ever need to send a 5MB photo (or even a half-MB photo) is if a magazine wants to print it and needs “high-res” photos.
Remember, KILObytes, not MEGAbytes.
Thanks,
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Yes, we do have a picture problem. Several group members don’t seem to know how to re-size their photos for email and web page sharing. Please learn. It not only crashes the 424.org system, but also clogs up email servers & systems that have limited bandwidth (and cruisers who pay for internet by the bandwidth). Please, everyone, downsize your photos before sharing them so that they’re never more than 1000 pixels wide – half that is usually more than enough to share your projects with us. The ONLY time you’d ever need to send a 5MB photo (or even a half-MB photo) is if a magazine wants to print it and needs “high-res” photos.
Thanks,
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Tommy,
As Rich said, seawater in the skeg is not unusual. My boat’s skeg was actually leaking a little at the bottom, trying (in vain) to drain itself when the boat was hauled out. So I helped it by drilling holes high & low, port & starboard, and flaring them out with an angle grinder & padded sanding disc to expose the under-laminates. I left it opened up that way as long as we were on the hard, with heat lamps on it 24/7. When it was as dried out as possible I ‘glassed it closed again, finishing it with gelcoat (photo attached) and bottom paint. No problems since, and that was 9 years ago.
When you find your “deal” on one of these beauties, be aware that (1) you generally get what you pay for, and (2) they are all endless labors of love. Personally, if I were buying a 424 again knowing what I know, I wouldn’t be hunting for “neglected and cheap.” I’d pay a fair price for one from an owner who has already spent all the years and dollars to renovate, refit, improve and maintain her, someone like Rich or Pete Dubler… or me. 😉 In the long run you’ll wind up tens of thousands of dollars and several years ahead that way.
Good luck,
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Attachments:
4676265779738783944.jpg
Hey Bob,
Great shot, but I wonder if 5MB (5300 pixels width) is necessary
to share an image not intended for print publication. It took a
lot of time and broadband to download. Perhaps if we all downsize
our photographs before sharing them, say to around 800 pixels
width, they will still make good viewing, travel a lot faster,
and benefit those in our group who rely on pay-as-you-go
broadband underway.Nice installation!
Tor
Dan,
I’m the group’s non-mechanic, but this seems straightforward. Put a pail underneath the hose’s connection at the Racor and just take it off – unless you still have 10 gallons of diesel in the tank. Then siphoning might be a problem IF you hold the end of the hose below the level of the fuel in the tank. As long as you hold it above that level siphoning will not occur. Liquids seek their own level. But I thought we addressed removing that residual fuel in the tank, so you’re only dealing with maybe a quart remaining in the hose. Take it off and hold it down into the bucket until it stops leaking, and keep a rag handy to wipe off your hands and the end of the hose.
Or is there something more here that I’m missing, as usual?
Tor
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Silverheels, P-424 #17
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