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It sounds like you did a nicer job of it, Dan, matching
the original gel coat. And you chose the more suitable
windlass, too. Glad to hear it all worked out so well.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Oh, man, that’d cost you big time. BIG time.
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Autographed copies available for a small fee.
🙂
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If I were doing it again I would install a horizontal
windlass instead of the vertical I have, simply to make
handling the 2nd bow anchor easier. In practice I don’t
set the 2nd anchor all that often, although perhaps I
would do so more frequently if it were as easy as the
#1 hook. I have, however, devised a pretty good and I
believe quite original system for deploying and
retrieving the 2nd bow anchor with the vertical
windlass.John, I expect know about my anti-pyramid stick for the
chain locker. I’m sure I shared it with the group and
in fact it was in the February issue of SAIL as a
Cruising Tip.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Pat,
I could write a great deal more about that project – it
was a major undertaking for me – but the photos say
most of it. Here (attached) is most of what I have. The
numerical order is not quite chronological, but the
photos illustrate the basic idea. Many in between steps
are missing. Also missing is a shot of the drain holes,
which were drilled port & starboard at the bottom of
the locker, angled slightly down and aft. They function
perfectly and to my knowledge no seawater ever backs
into them.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Pat,
I’m sure I’m doing it wrong, but I don’t see
Silverheels’ chain locker / foredeck rebuild photos
there.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Delete that “please” part. Rough morning here and the
captain’s grumpy. Let me know if you can’t find those
photos in the archive.Tor
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Discoverie,
Never hurts to say please. You may find those photos at
pearson424.org. If not, you may ask me for them.In my boat there was drainage into the bilge as you
describe. Pretty dumb idea, huh. When I rebuilt
Silverheels’ chain locker I sealed that drain closed
and drilled port & starboard holes so water in that
locker drains overboard. Way better.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Dan,
I keep a few printouts of the attached line drawing in
my nav table and hand one to the lift operator prior to
each haul-out. With this the strap placement is a
no-brainer, no diver necessary.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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No designer in his right mind would design a boat ANY
other way.
The “right mind” of the 424’s designer/builder is a
subject for much debate. They did any number of things
that, with 20/20 hindsight, could and should have been
done better. Overall these are good boats – certainly
they’re a lot of bang for the buck – but like many
yacht designs they have their shortcomings and
idiosyncrasies. Those of us who have substantially
reinforced the skinny layup beneath the deep sump can
now block up our boats with less exactness. Those who
have not need to be aware of the weak area between the
internal lead and the extreme after end of the keel,
and avoid putting any weight on a block there.I learned of this the hard way, returning from a year
of sometimes-offshore voyaging to discover a long,
frighteningly deep crack in the fiberglass in that area
– barely millimeters remaining between me and the deep
blue sea. If you learned about this on the hard, count
your blessings. Fix it and move on.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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In my experience, the only way one can justify
refurbishing old boats like ours is as a labor of love.
If you won’t truly enjoy the process, the moment to
moment “doing” of it, don’t do it. Even if I were to
value my skilled labor at $.01/hour, I could never
recoup what I’ve got into Silverheels in time and
materials. As it is, however, I am repaid daily, even
when we’re in the boat yard and I’m hot & tired and the
damned 35-year-old bolt refuses to budge.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks, Quent. I think the 18-8 cap nuts will serve.
The acorn nuts they’re replacing were an anomaly.
Certainly they were not stainless steel. I probably
failed to read the package label carefully enough when
I bought them. No other stainless on my boat has
deteriorated like that.Tor
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Thanks, Pete. Fisheries Supply’s website only says,
“Stainless Steel” for the cap nuts, but judging by
their price I’m sure it’s 304 (18/8) stainless, not
316, as is the case on most suppliers’ sites. Mcmaster
Carr carries both, the 316 being 8 or 9 times the price
of the 304.My understanding is that 304 (18/8) stainless steel is
corrosion resistant enough for use on the deck of a
work boat, that it may bleed a little, but it won’t
rust or rot. Am I mistaken?Tor
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Thanks, Quent. I think 316 ss cap nuts are way beyond
the point of diminishing returns compared to 304 (18/8
and 18/10) stainless, at least in this case. The price
difference between the two is extraordinary. I’ll let
you know if I’m mistaken in a few years.As for the magnet, I keep one on my workbench for
exactly that purpose, but have had little success using
it to test online orders before purchasing.🙂
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Thanks, John. I agree I should be able to trust
stainless steel from Jamestown. I’m replacing 60
“stainless steel” cap (acorn) nuts on the spray dodger
hard-top that utterly disintegrated during 5 years of
cruising. Really crappy metal. I think I bought them at
Home Depot.Tor
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