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Glad to hear that, John (and Bob). I bought a roll of
that stuff from Home Depot, but thought I’d check on
the availability of the hard-backed Velcro, which I’ve
never seen anywhere else. Either way I’ll reinforce the
attachment with carpet tacks. I did that for my hatch
screens and it has held on for years.Tor
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I made a little clip-bracket to hold my one swivel
spreader light, too, to keep it aimed onto the
foredeck. Otherwise just sailing the boat would
re-direct the light, invariably towards someplace I
didn’t want it to shine. There is no provision for
tensioning the swivel, a simple ball joint.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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As I suspected. A much kinder amp draw, for sure, and
so bright! Well done. I rarely use mine, drawing 9+amps
together, without the engine running.Tor
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Bob,
Wow! How much do they draw?
I mounted a pair of 55W sealed beam lamps under the main spreaders when I re-wired the masts back in 2007, one fixed aiming straight down and one swivel aimed at the foredeck. At that time they were about $9 and $18, respectively, Port Supply prices. They draw 4.6A@12V apiece. I don’t use them often, but when I do they’re a godsend. Mainly they’re for complex deck chores offshore at night, and for lighting up the boat for sleepy watch keepers on approaching ships.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Rich,
The port genoa sheet just touches the forward top edge
of the cockpit combing, a smooth surface that does not
chafe. Otherwise the sheets have a clear run from the
car to my relocated primary winches.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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As we old-timers on this forum know, Rich is one of the
more knowledgeable members here. However, with all due
respect I take issue with some of his assertions below:“(My sloop rig) tacks within 90degrees over the
bottom.”– It seems the ketch rig generally does not point as
high as her single-masted sisters because it’s
difficult to get enough tension on the head stay. I’m
considering installing a simple, multi-purchase
block-&-tackle to pull my double main backstays closer
together when sailing to windward, thus tightening the
head stay and (hopefully) enabling my ketch to point
higher.“(The sloop rig) also lets me put in a bimini that
covers the whole cockpit.”– I designed and built a Sunbrella bimini top that
covers the whole cockpit AND allows instant access to
the mizzen sail & boom (and clearance for the mizzen
running backstays). All it takes is four zippered
panels and a novel frame modification aft, and yet to
my knowledge my simple and (in retrospect) obvious
solution to the problem is a first-ever. Certainly it
would enhance any aft cockpit ketch, many yawls, and
some cutters. I’m thinking of re-building my bimini now
as a hard-top, since I never take it down except to
have it re-stitched periodically.“Access forward around the dodger is not hindered by
the extra stays.”– The P424’s mizzen rigging does not hinder access
around the dodger at all. If anything it provides safer
handholds. What does interfere with that passage is
Pearson’s original location of the primary sheet
winches in the worst possible place, right where you
need to step when passing between the cockpit and the
side deck. One of the first things I did when I started
refitting Silverheels was to move those winches aft,
placing them outboard of the wheel so a helmsman can
tack the boat (with or) without the aid of another
crewmember. I swear, sometimes I wonder whether Mr.
Pearson ever actually sailed these boats.“…the mizzen rig is too small in the 424 to be
effective.”– Not true. That mizzen article I referenced yesterday
demonstrates many uses for that sail, all of which work
very well on the 424.Personally, if I were to choose a single-masted Pearson
424 for cruising, it would be the cutter for its
versatility. For day-sailing and occasional weekend
jaunts, I’d want the sloop for its simplicity. However,
when I was shopping for my next boat and found
Silverheels, I was specifically looking for a ketch
rig, wanting a comfortable, modestly-priced live-aboard
cruising sailboat that I could continue to single-hand
as I grow older. Overall, I’m happy with my choice.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Jason,
Everything pertaining to boats is a trade-off,
including the rig. You may be about equally happy with
whichever P424 configuration you get. However, if you
do buy a ketch you will surely benefit by learning when
and how to use a mizzen sail. This article may be
helpful: http://www.tor.cc/articles/mizzen.htm .I have a 424 ketch with davits, a windvane and a
staysail. It works. However, I swapped the original
Westerbeke for a new Yanmar right away and am very glad
I did. It can be a challenge finding parts for those
old Westerbekes, and at their age they often need
replacement parts. Besides, diesel mechanics is neither
my forte or my passion.Good luck,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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LanoCote:
https://www.google.com/search?q=LanoCote&ie=utf-8&oe=ut
f-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-
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If you put stainless steel screws or bolts into the
aluminum mast, coat each one with LanoCote before
screwing it in. It will last many years longer and will
probably still unscrew 10 years from now. Otherwise,
electrolysis will weld the dissimilar metals together
and eventually destroy one of them. (Bob, you’ll know
which metal it’ll eat, I’m sure.)Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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how you do that mast/bridge thing.
Simple, I don’t sail where there are bridges. Whenever
I leave Green Cove Springs, I follow the St. Johns
River out into the Atlantic and just keep going down to
the Caribbean.😉
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Mast ladder steps are a definite plus for a host of
reasons. If Silverheels hadn’t come with them I
would’ve added them as I did on my previous cruising
boat.One advantage of being able to scoot up to the masthead
is this technique for judging bridge clearance: Get
eye level with the top of the mast and the bottom of
the bridge as you’re approaching (but still at a safe
distance for stopping). If the view of the other side
gets bigger, you’ll fit under the bridge. If it gets
smaller, you’ll hit the bridge.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I rejoice to hear it! I’ll surely make a mess this
time, though, getting the teak “basically clean” for
the first time in (probably) 35 years. It’s part of
this summer’s “sprucing up,” and in fact just another
step in the Never-Ending Refit of the Good Ketch
Silverheels.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Roger that, John. I’m cleaning Silverheels’ interior
teak for the first time ever. (There has always seemed
like more important things to do, including going
sailing.) I am astonished at the change effected by a
little detergent, bleach, water and elbow grease.The pieces that can be carried onto the dock are easy.
However, it seems to me pieces & bulkheads belowdecks
are going to be a wet, messy business if they’re to be
rinsed thoroughly. I can’t imagine intentionally making
such a mess every 6 months. Is there a neat way to
clean interior teak that I should know about?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Thanks, John. I’m definitely looking for an oil that
doesn’t darken the teak.How often do you oil your interior teak?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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