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Since getting Discoverie I’ve saved quite a few doubloons due to the excellent advice and guidance from the experience hands on the pearson424 site. Thanks to Ewan and his crew for the site and the rest of you for your patience with us newbies.
tkx,
rbCongratulations on your Pearson 424 purchase. I was unable to see the photo from the email but will check when I’m at a computer. From my experience the choice is to rebuild or replace. In my case I opted for the rebuild as Tor did. As he’s said its about 1/3 the cost, and I expect to get another five to seven years out of it. I’m sticking with my W58 engine so that wasn’t a consideration.A couple of questions I considered:Does it leak?Is raw water flow restricted?Is it noisy?Does it run hot?In my case the answer was no to all off the above. But it looked pretty bad from the outside so I pulled it and sent it to Walter Machine in NJ. Don Chatrnuck gave me the options and I went for the rebuild.Good luck and let us know how it goes. Btw I have the owners manual if you need it.RogerDon’s contact info is below.Don Chatrnuck
THE WALTER MACHINE COMPANY, INC.
– Established 1927 –
84 – 98 Cambridge Ave
Jersey City, NJ 07307
USA
(201) 656-5654 – Main
(201) 656-0318 – Facsimile
E-Mail – DonC@waltergear.comThanks much. White paint sounds like just the ticket. I’ve ordered a couple of bronze grab rails to check out the finish. I’ll send some pix when they arrive.Roger
I’m rebedding all the coach house hardware and thinking of replacing the grab rails with brass tubing and not replacing the eyebrows. Has anyone just dumped the eyebrows completely?
I’d be remiss if I didn’t give a shout out to Bob Fine who showed me how to set up new seats for deck hardware that should easily remain water tight for more than 30 years. Shown is an inside view looking upward to four epoxy filled 3/4 cylinders in the deck that are ready to be drilled for fasteners. The original fastener hole on the deck side is preserved by using the hole saw cutting from the inside fiberglass through the balsa core up to, but not through the deck skin. After cleaning the hole, Gorilla tape is used to cover and epoxy is injected from the deck top.
Thanks much Bob!
RB
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Excellent news! very glad to hear the problem didn’t require the expense of repowering.
Discoverie has a W58 and I figured it would need work so I bought a working spare engine for $1k. At least it would be good for parts. At this point I’ve pulled the starter, alternator and water pump from the spare. Alternator is in good shape and starter was rebuilt.
Has anyone rebuilt a W58 water pump?
If those pictures of the anchor locker work are available, I could make use of them. Started a similar project assuming there was drainage into the bilge under the forward water tank and was surprised to find that there was none.
Likewise here, I picked up a used but running W58 as a spare $1K. Because it’s running it can be tested on a dynometer. That will cost $450. If a full rebuild is in order, that will be $6-8K. Discoverie, formally Kismet, had a new stainless fuel tank in 2010, the engine a new head and transmission, and I had the v-drive rebuilt by Walter Gear last year for about $1400. Don at Walter said the rebuilt v-drive was good for another 15 or so years so the rusting out issue isn’t a certainty at 30 years–knocking wood now. Also got a bonus when my yard hauled the boat and bent the prop shaft last fall. They will now have to install a new shaft and cutlass bearing.
All this to say, and agree with the previous comments, that rebuilding is in part an economic decision that needs to be based on each boat’s particular circumstances. I’ll probably rebuild the spare W58 next year as that seems to be the most economical way to keep Discoverie underway for the foreseeable future.
Question: if spares were being collected, what would be on your list?
Roger
On Mar 4, 2014, at 1:36 PM, “skipmac” wrote:
Hi Rich,
Excellent comments on the repower vs dumping money into an old Westerbeke. I am of the same opinion. Still keeping my W58 going with minimal trouble and I did indeed find an old W58 that I bought for parts. Now have spare starter, spare fresh water pump, injector pump, injectors, glow plugs and even a head if it comes to that.
But bottom line, if the oil pressure starts going, rods knocking or anything that looks like anything more than minor repairs or replacing a few parts then I guess I’ll bite the bullet and go new. Like you I would also go with new V-drive and transmission. Just seems to make sense that if you’re going to tear the boat apart to replace the engine you may as well do the rest while you’re at it.
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I checked with Bob Hansen at Hansen Marine in Marblehead, Massachusetts. Bob said that the Westerbeke 58 was originally a Mazda engine that was purchased by both Perkins and Westerbreke. Interestingly Bob said that Perkins was no longer supporting their version of this Mazda-based engine and was no longer supplying parts. The parts Perkins has may be old stock. It’s also possible that just the Marine division of Perkins no longer providing support but that the tractor division still is. So, depending on their suitability–I have no idea what the marinizing process entails–it might make sense to grab those Perkins parts while they are still available. Westerbeke is still supporting the 58 with Mazda parts albeit at the usual arm-and-leg price.
RogerOn Mar 3, 2014, at 10:36 PM, “skipmac” wrote:
Hi Dan,
Had heard that most Westerbekes were other engines painted red so did a little research and determined that the W58 is the same as a Perkins 4.154 series 200 engine. Those were common in tractors and industrial equipment where parts are MUCH cheaper.
Assuming your fresh water pump is the same as mine, it’s a two piece unit. The main pump body bolted to the block and a smaller insert that has the shaft and rotor. Unless the body is rusted out you can just remove the shaft section and replace. It was faster and cheaper for me than buying a rebuild kit.
The previous thread is here.
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=2086&highlight=
I bought my pump on eBay from this company http://www.plowboyequipment.com/ Best deal I found anywhere and they were very helpful helping me identify the part.
Here’s a link to the original eBay ad with a picture of the part.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6599948-6630541-Bobcat-Skid-Steer-Loader-Water-Pump-843-/170902596727
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Also bronze makes excellent heads for soft metal hammers.
Roger
On Jan 16, 2014, at 5:59 AM, Alan wrote:
Don’t trash it. They make wonderfully good pry bars around the boat/house. Also good for mounting bird houses in the yard. I have 3 such shafts for those purposes.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Jan 15, 2014, at 8:44 PM, “Page Two” wrote:
…another one bites the dust…http://pagetwo88.blogspot.com/2014/01/prop-shaft-terminated.html
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
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Alas, there is one less original bronze shaft in service today. Best of luck with your’s Tor. Other than the damage caused by the hauling incident, there was nothing amiss with the 30 year old bronze shaft on Discoverie, (cutter #203)
Roger
Quote:On Jan 15, 2014, at 3:06 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:I must be one of the few left with an original bronze
shaft. I had it trued on a lathe at the local machine
shop a few years ago, but he said it needed very little
tweaking.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I’m replacing the prop shaft after the yard lifted the boat by the bronze shaft with their travel lift. They are paying for the replacement but have offered a stainless one with no vanadium or molly in the alloy (no austenite). This means that it will be less corrosion resistant than the original bronze shaft.
What experience with stainless (in its various alloys) vs bronze does this group have?
Tkx
RBRoger
On Jan 14, 2014, at 5:19 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Sounds to me like a slightly bent shaft. I had the same experience when a line got wrapped around the prop and stopped the engine. The shock bent it.
Good luck, I needed a new shaft; quite expensive, unfortunately.
Joe,
(formerly) Half MoonOn Tuesday, January 14, 2014 3:19 PM, cstewart wrote:
Rich, your comment got me thinking. I remember now that I picked up a crab pot, really nasty wrap, at 7 mile bridge some time last year. Once I figured out what the problem was, I cut it out, but often wondered if that may have bent the prop, or worse, the shaft.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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cstewart,
Cutlass bearing secures prop shaft to hull. The stuffing box creates a water tight (more or less) around the prop shaft. Here’s a boatus piece on stuffing boxes. (http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/stuffing-box.asp)On the vibration issue, has anyone used a strobe light to check for vibration as the shaft spins at various speeds?
Madsailor,
On the prop shaft diagram question, Gabe Capobianchi at Precision Machining says he has the dimensions, but his shop is closed today. ‘Will follow up when he has the materials.While on topic, Gabe uses Aquamet (http://www.aquamet.com/)for the raw stock. They have three grades of stainless prop shafts. The most corrosion resistant uses vanadium and moly. I can’t speak for the quality of Gab’s work yet, but he’s friendly, knowledgable and said I could pass his email address along at .
On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:29 PM, “cstewart” wrote:
I did check out the v-drive as best I know how. It is secure and the oil is changed and clean. No leaks. Also checked the u-joints and linkage and all seems secure, no wobble. I have no way to check the cutlass, except to see that it has packing in it, and I have tightened it and stopped any leak. Could a loose or leaking cutlass nut have caused a vibration? I have not run the prop/shaft since tightening it, but I did stop the drip. It was dripping at a rate of one drop per second while running. I thought that was normal.
If the vibration is caused by something else, wouldn’t that vibration, over time, create havoc with the cutlass bearing?
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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