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The best source I’ve found for info on the W58 is Bob Hanson at Hanson Marine Engineering.
http://www.hansenmarine.com Bob’s a great guy and quite likely can answer any questions. I buy my service kits from them.
Cheers,
RogerRoger
On Dec 16, 2013, at 10:11 PM, “skipmac” wrote:
Trying to keep my old W58 alive without paying blackmail prices for “genuine” Westerbeke parts. I had seen various speculations on the original source for the W58 block including Perkins. So in the course of trying to find a fresh water pump for less that $600 I tried searching for Perkins parts and think I struck gold with the 4.154 series 200 Perkins engine.
NOTE!! I think there are variations on the 4.154 and the series 200 designation seems to be significant.
Found just the impeller section of the water pump without buying the rest of the case. Have ordered one from http://www.plowboyequipment.com $97 and change including shipping.
This may open a whole new source for much cheaper W58 parts including some of the expensive ones like the water pump and injector pumps. Will post a followup when the water pump arrives and I confirm it fits.
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Good one, thanks for the q and a. As a new owner of hull num 203, I’m interested in how many other original Westerbeke 58 engines are in use. Mine, knock wood, seems to be in good shape after about 100 hours of use this summer. Anyone augmented the instrumentation to improve monitoring, how often is the oil changed? Any tips to help continued longevity?
Thanks,
RogerOn Sep 16, 2013, at 8:25 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
There should be a drain on the starboard side behind or inboard of the oil
dipstick. It’s a petcock like the one on the expansion tank.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 16, 2013 8:09 AM, “kalinowski” wrote:Time to flush the cooling system and I’m trying to figure out the easiest
way to approach this. Is there a specific drain plug on the bottom of the
58? I can’t seem to find this in the parts/service catalogs.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Agreeing with what previously said on the handling the manual Hood mainsail furlers.
I did remove the vertical batons from the Hood mainsail as they regularly caused jams. Anybody using the batons?
Also, I will shortly need to replace the line that runs from the furling winch to the in-mast furler. Anyone have suggestions before I take on that task?
Roger
On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:34 AM, “quent” wrote:
Clairebuoyant has a Hood Stoway mast furling system. Since we have 30 year old boats and mast systems are expensive, I think that “Love the one you’re with.” might be the operative phrase. The advice posted already is all good. The Hood system is a very early mast furler. More modern systems have wider slots and probably are less prone to jamming. That said, we added a longer boom, more layers of sail inside the mast, but have had no problems. Our current main is cut very flat. With the long boom, it is pretty much low aspect ratio. It’s cut from genoa cloth rather than mainsail cloth, and sets like a genoa.
You can make or buy a device to close the slot so that it won’t whistle, but it only does that when in a slip with the wind on the beam, so never at anchor.
I agree with Rich that powered Hood furlers are problematic. Ours is manual and fits a winch handle in the front of the mast so it would be easy to back up if it binds. It is no small comfort that the main is completely furled in 22 turns.
Our Harken jib furler on the other hand will backlash like a fishing reel if it unfurls without tension on the line. That is a PITA.
Quent
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I have the in-mast Hood furler on Discoverie. Not sure I can help but what’s the question?
Roger
On Jul 23, 2013, at 10:11 PM, “Page Two” wrote:
Thanks guys….but it’s too late now, for this day anyway. Fuzzle! I have to get up and cut holes in someone else’s boat tomorrow morning or late morning if that’s how I feel, but one thing for sure…. it’s really, really fun when your getting paid for it !!!
Ken
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When a captain I know needs to do a single-handed delivery, he trails 100 foot of line off the stern. He hasn’t had to use it yet but says, “if you go overboard, the water displacement of the boat’s motion will suck you behind the boat where you have a chance of grabbing the line.” Tying a type-four to the end wouldn’t be a bad idea either.
Roger
On Jul 18, 2013, at 6:11 AM, Alan wrote:
http://online.wsj.com/article/AP587e2ddd4d1e4eb193aec19f1b9a8f22.html
Sent from my iPhone
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inspirational, really thank you. What was your point of sail during
this rocket ride?We’re just getting Discoverie (p424 cutter) settled into her new home
on the CT shore of Long Island Sound and were getting 7.5kts+ SOG
pinching up from a beam reach in 18kts true wind last Friday. But I’m
not sure we weren’t getting a little kick from the current off
Smithtown Bay. She’s a new boat to us, and we are delighted with the
performance.cheers,
rbOn 6/26/13, Silverheels wrote:
Today the good ketch Silverheels kissed 9.7 knots SOG for the first time
since I’ve owned her. It happened as we came under the lee of St. Vincent,
southbound, flying her new (this year) 135% genoa, main & mizzen.It’s common for the trade winds to bend and kick up a notch as you (and
they) arrive at mountainous islands, sometimes several notches. So I wasn’t
surprised when it jumped from 15 knots to 20 gusting 25+ and backed a
point.
What did surprise me was how my boat responded. I’m still getting used to
the new sails I bought her, which include fully-battened main & mizzen
sails. She started hitting 9+ knots for multi-second intervals. That’s
faster than her previous top speed of 8-point-something under her old
sails.
Then the GPS declared 9.7 knots. WOW! And she never even came close to
dipping her rail. She just hunkered down and SMOKED, sustaining 9 knots for
even longer stretches, then slowing down to 8.7, 8.5, then blasting off
again. She hit 9.5 several times, 9.7 twice that I saw, and I thought I
glimpsed 9.8 one time but can’t swear to it. Awesome! Oh, if only I’d had
the staysail flying, too. Who knows what miracles I might have witnessed?
Dare I even think the theoretically impossible 10? And this with a boat
toting a full year’s-worth of provisions – we’re talking packed to the
proverbial gills, here – plus a dinghy in davits and fuel & water tanks
topped off just a day ago in Martinique, plus half a dozen jerry jugs more,
all the while dragging her vintage, fixed 3-blade prop (locked). OMG, can I
get an AMEN?And then, abruptly, the wind stopped – dead calm, sails limp, Silverheels
as
stunned as I – and the sun came out for the first time all day. (Fade in
symphonic crescendo with angelic choir.) Hello, Universe.Yep, I’d say it was a good day at the office.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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The “machined key” is what I’m calling the “gauge”. It’s like a fat feeler gauge. It’s small and comes attached to a key fob.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 5:57 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Roger. I’m emailing Don to find out what you’re referring to. He
never mentioned anything to me about PDF’s, set up gauges and specially
machined keys.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Yes I should have mentioned the set up gauge. I can send full contact info on a direct email if needed. Basics below.
Don Chatrnuck
THE WALTER MACHINE COMPANY, INC.
– Established 1927 –
84 – 98 Cambridge Ave
Jersey City, NJ 07307
USARoger
On May 7, 2013, at 5:32 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Besides the PFD’s for setting it up, Walters also has a specially machined key that you use for centering the shift. make sure you get that also.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 5:30 PM, Roger Bigger wrote:
Quote:There are a couple PDFs for the V-20. Don has them. One has the correct measurements for setting up the drive shaft as it floats at the v-drive side and needs to be fixed at the correct position on the hollow shaft side. Let me know if you’d like me to email or post them.One other thing, my drive shaft was heavily pitted, and I replaced it at the same time. Don at Walter Gear can help you with that, if needed.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 3:15 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Roger,What PDF’s?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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There are a couple PDFs for the V-20. Don has them. One has the correct measurements for setting up the drive shaft as it floats at the v-drive side and needs to be fixed at the correct position on the hollow shaft side. Let me know if you’d like me to email or post them.
One other thing, my drive shaft was heavily pitted, and I replaced it at the same time. Don at Walter Gear can help you with that, if needed.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 3:15 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Roger,What PDF’s?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Agreed, had mine rebuilt this spring. Be sure to ask for the PDFs.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 11:31 AM, “Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.” wrote:
Quote:I also had my RV-20 rebuilt several years ago and I was pleased with the result.Steve w
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Had my RV-20 rebuilt by Walter Gear one month ago. Have parts run out since then?
Roger
On Apr 14, 2013, at 9:54 AM, “Rich Carter” wrote:
Quote:There are no longer sufficient parts available to rebuild an RV-20. An RV-26 will set you back around $3k.Rich
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Don at Walter Gear can give you the 411 on the R26 replacement. I just had my r20 rebuilt by Walter and it cost about $1,300–only one of the two big gears needed replacement. ‘Recommend also having the hollow and splined drive shafts be checked at the same time. My boat #203 had a heavily pitted splined shaft and Walter replaced it, cleaned and painted the hollow drive shaft for about $300.
If you go the rebuild route, ask them to replace the fasteners on the mounting/adjustment brackets, or at least not paint them. They painted mine and it has made final adjustment much more difficult.
Roger
On Apr 13, 2013, at 12:34 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
The mechanics’ consensus now is that I have a V-drive issue, not a
transmission issue. They believe the driven gear bearings, races, idler
bushing, spacers, shims, thrust washers, etc. are probably worn. I’ll call
Walter on Monday to find out whether this old R-20 can be rebuilt.Anybody know a ballpark cost of a new R-26, and what’s involved in
installing it where the R-20 was in a 424?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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